Son of Marty

How cold is your freezer? red loc-tite is good to -65'f so no prob there, yes the cold reduces the dia. so when it warms the stud is held tighter in the hub.

I'd put the flywheel on and get a aircooled VW flywheel lock their about 12 bucks on Amazon or any VW parts place.

I've always liked the studs over the bolts it's much easier to mount the wheel with them although Mikes cut off temporary bolt would make mounting the wheel about the same, When I install the studs I put them in the freezer the night before and then use red loc-tite on the hub end. Your hubs will not take press in studs with out some machine work when they are presses in they have teeth that cut into the hub to hold them no loc-tite needed.

When you have her on the lift drain the trans and look for metal flakes or bits, loosen the fill plug before draining so you know it will come out when it's time to refill, also grab the drive shaft and twist it back and forth to make sure the output flange is tight. 

As for the clunk make sure the shock gland nut is tight and the strut bearing is also tight, it may be as simple as the spring not seated in the upper and lower spring perch not being aliened and seated corectly.

3 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

You might consider ordering two new ones and putting the front hanger in your box of emergency spare parts.

I just pack a small roll of baling wire so I can fix several different bits on the road not just the exhaust.

When you twist the rotor and let is go does it snap back to the idle position or does it get hung up.

With that 292 cam the stock bits will do you fine, I would get the valve springs measured and matched but other than that you're good as long as all the other parts pass muster.

A 292 cam would fit the bill nicely IMHO.

Remove the rotor and look into the center of shaft and you'll see the pad, hook it with a bit of wire or tweezers and pull it out. Not a great picture but the brown in the picture is the pad, the dist. pictured is disassembled way more then you'll need.

I think it maybe a Saab Sonett from the mid 70's

I would make sure the distributor advance is free swinging and not getting hung up at full advance, add a few 3 or so drops of light machine oil under the felt pad that's covered by the rotor. Plenty of   cars run that weber and never had the fuel return ever fitted, it would take a real big shot of brake fluid to stall the engine.

Don't bore the block until you or your machinist have the pistons in hand.

29 minutes ago, 02Les said:

Return them, thus hoping MVP will take more care with quality control.

They are for improving their product when it doesn't fit or work correctly unlike a certain distributor manufactory.  

When you could do this for under a grand it was a no brainer, but IMO at 4-5k it's not worth that kinda money.

Yes that's the one, Hardware is commonly referred to by the size of the bolt it's self, not the nut or bolt head size, but I was wrong it's a 8mm bolt not a 6mm bolt.

1 hour ago, Lee74 said:

I'm in the PNW also and am wondering if there are any members here locally near Olympia/ Tacoma / Seattle area 

Register to join the PNW area 02 club it's a active group and you'll find a lot of cars and people between Washington and Oregon plus several meets and drives.

Or when the factory updated the fire wall die to allow the 2 holes that the NA cars required did they use that die on all cars and  put a rubber plug in there, I don't know, rhd cars are bit thin on this side of the pond.

Tom, your bleeding set up makes me wonder if you could make them into Wangensteen pump to allow hands off brake bleeding.

There's no reason to break and of the brake pipes loose just remove the 6mm bolt that holds the l bracket to the strut remove the caliper and I hang it from the brake pipes where they come through the inter fender with a wire tie, I used to use metal close hanger wire but those kind of hangers have pretty much gone MIA.

At the times these cars were built BMW's redline was not the max rpm to hit before shifting but the max operating rpm, in other words  you can operate at 6400 rpm as long as you cared to. Now 50 years later unless you did a complete rebuild not to long ago shift at 6400 to be safe but the m-10 was and is built to run hard.

The best paint to use is the one your painter chooses to use he knows the tricks to make it lay right and how to fix any boo-boo's. IMO you are much better off taking your car or a piece of it to the paint store and have them use their spectrograph on it to match the paint color, The printed formula's are likely to have not been updated as paint formulas changed and they have changed a lot since the 70's.

Remember coolant and oil leaks flow down and back from their origin.

That kinda money would buy you a Schnitzer head and with that people at the cars and coffee would walk by 30 s-14's to look at your car'

Yup, the front calipers should show with the bleeder pointed up, I'd be lying if I said I've never done that and maybe a few others here.

That's the end of the line for the pressured oil and is open to feed the oil pressure sender.

PS your distributor cover needs to have the gasket surfaces cleaner than that for a good seal.