Son of Marty

7 minutes ago, 1965GTFB said:

It's the things like 60s spinner wheel covers being banned, if the story is true, because some legislator caught the cuff of his pant leg on one and made it his mission to outlaw them, 

The was a actress named Isabella Duncan who had her long scarf get caught in the knock off wheel spinner of her sport car killing her. Safety rules are usually paid for in blood, other than Ralf Nader's crusade against the Corsair which was based originally on the fact that the sportier version had staggered tire sizes and that must be unsafe. 

When you get into the doors be sure to clean and lube the window track guides and etc. 

A well cleaned and lubed window should go up and down with almost no effort.

The oil pressure should be taken from the factory location it's at the end of the road so to speak of the oil system so if oil pressure is there it's everywhere you need, taking it from the oil filter housing it may show pressure long after the top end is dry. As stated above all electric aux gauges need to be matched with the proper senders to work. 

2 hours ago, Pablo M said:

Belt is loose but multi meter also shows 14.0 with ignition off, 13.8 with engine running. So I think the original alternator didn’t survive my replacing the bushings. New alternator likely.

Your alternator is fine what you need is a new voltage regulator.

They are still available for 2 bucks or so, 23211490120 at your favorite 02 parts supplier.

It goes in just as pictured.

6 hours ago, JamesRamsay said:

got the hang of the diminutive little Getrag 242 4-speed that's currently sitting on my bedroom floor. 

Did it hurt when you stubbed your toe in the middle of the night?😫

Red is a particularly bad color for a ground wire in most applications it's a power wire. 

I guess that no one has tried this so someone has to risk the 8.40 and give it a try.

Exhaust leak at the head?

The op ask about welding them shut, I my self seal them down with 3m 5200.

3 minutes ago, jkraft said:

The MC is new.  Yes the brake pedal has an adjustment under the dash.  Right now the brake pedal is proud of the clutch pedal.

Just because the M/C is new doesn't make it good especially now days, when you press the brake pedal is there any play before the brakes work, there should be so that the M/C can fully return to the rest position.

If it's all 4 brakes the problem is the master cylinder, I'm not familiar with the c/s brake linkage but if it's like the 02's the linkage it self can be adjusted for length and it's most likely too long and not letting the master release fully.

4 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

how will you weld them in so as to keep water out of that joint?  

Seam sealer from the bottom after welding.

Unless you are going put your car back on the factory jig to weld the chassis together then they serve no purpose, so weld away. Most people think they are drain holes from the priming stage of painting but that's not there primary reason to exist, back in the days before computer positing and welders the big holes had a pin that located the hole and a locking pin was installed to hold the floor flat and the smaller 1/2 dollar hole locked it straight.   

7 minutes ago, ingramlee said:

Did you laser the frog too?

Just what I was going to ask👍☠️, I'm way past hurting anything other than flies, all flies must die.

So I guess some of the dry ice method has been blurred by time but after you freeze the tar use a dead blow hammer on the area to break the bond of the tar to the metal.

Are you using standard bulbs or led's?

Welcome James, you do realize that just one picture ain't go'n to do it. It looks like a nice project and buying the next project before finishing the first is the norm around here, you'll do mate.

You'd need a good sized pile of those washers to make a pound, but I do agree that you need to save ounces to make a pound.

I'll just drop this here.

Get Smart - The Claw.mp4

If the car can hit the points in Oldrollers post relatively smoothly plug the vacuum line to the manifold and set the timing, reconnect the vacuum line then tune the carb for best over all power and you're good, what you don't want to do is screw with the timing and carb at the same time.

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So, kinda a long way to the finish here but we have a ford ranger that's only used seldomly  for hauling stuff for the house, here a while ago it started throwing a code that said high fuel gauge voltage so I'm like WTF how is that even possible all other voltages were fine so after a lot of research I found the Ford's computer measures the amount of fuel the engine has used and compares it to the fuel gauge reading if they don't jive the light comes on. It turns out that cars that sit a lot with e85 gas through the miracle of unintended chemistry the fuel forms sulfur deposits on the sender wire and the cure is to run a bottle of techron extreme fuel conditioner in a tank or two of fuel and in my case it fixed it. Just say'n might be worth a try.

I'd run a compression check to check for a head gasket leak,

Loosen the last motor mount at the block and sub frame and rock and shove the engine until the trans is sitting level side to side then as stated above loosen the diff mounts before bolting the d/s up.