Son of Marty

6 minutes ago, JQ02 said:

Was basecoat / clearcoat a thing in '75?

Yes, but not for long😫.

Yup, drain the oil and look for chunks in it.

On a 74 I would investigate the seatbelt relay that was a 74 only thing, it won't engage the starter unless the seat belts are fastened most were by passed by unplugging the seat sensors leaving the relay intact this relay does wear out and the car won't crank over. Search seatbelt interlock and you'll find a few threads on bypassing this relay for good. 

With the lowering springs you may not need the spring compressors when the cars jacked up the springs will hang free. 

Most I've seen the underside is discolored and pitted from the exhaust.

1 hour ago, Lucky 7 said:

That square block goes under the wiper assembly to keep it from flopping around.

These rubber bits were glued in place with a special adhesive that was designed to hold tight until they were exposed to salt air, then they would all fall off some were in the middle of the Atlantic ocean, so not many were left intact upon landing.

You can try the cut and butt method on the full or part metal floor replacement. Fitzee's a rock star watch all his stuff.

When you dump new cold new oil into the fill it drains slow enough to allow the oil to back up to at least 1/2 the cam level so in effect you have oiled the cam just by changing the oil.

As far as I know BMW never stamped the vin/motor number on the trans.

Check to see if your still getting full throttle with the pedal down, the linkage arm on the pedal box has been known to slip.

5 minutes ago, Preyupy said:

set your total and go for a drive and see how it runs.  

This is why it's called tuning and not setting up, specially on 50 year old cars. Set it to the factory set up for your type, IE, Ti, Tii or single carb and the dial it in from there. 

Is your oil return from the k-fish pump hooked up and intact.

That's shredded rubber and oil, a lovely combo that makes a skookum spider trap. 

13 hours ago, TobyB said:

when the upper cover hasn't been snugged down correctly- you need to just barely touch

the 6 front bolts, then snug the 2 down bolts, snug the front bolts, tighten the down bolts, and then tighten the 6 front bolts.

Yes and a dab of RTV at the junction of the head and upper and lower covers you'll see 2 small holes to fill with RTV, I'd guess most front covers that are milled to the correct height and leak were not tightened down as above. When you remove the front covers you'll need to avoid damage to the head and oil pan gaskets so go slow when disassembling everything. 

If you wind up needing a bunch of parts you might as well upgrade IMHO.

8 minutes ago, TobyB said:

and the big Volvo brakes last approximately forever.

Just like their cars😎.

This will take care of that "In a jiffy". Also available in black for that concours look.

The protruding bit is the chain tensioner and should have a aluminum washer under the bolt head this can be changed by unscrewing the cap and replacing the washer there's a weakish spring under it so be ready for that. The front main seal is a bigger bit of work but sure can be done over a weekend, I would call blunt and they will set you up with a timing cover gasket kit and new oil seal.

It looks like your calipers are on the wrong side, do the bleeders point up or down?

10 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

Anyhoo. She probably needs a 127 main, as the 125 is putting her in the 13.3-7 range at WOT, but the 130 lands in the 10.9-11.5. 

IMO to correct the top end pick a jet, and then play with the air correctors until  the mixture fall in line.

I would pull and disassemble the carb completely and blow out all the passages both ways, it's possible with a brand new carb that a bit of swarf from the machining is stuck in there.

If you start with a rod a little bit larger than the hole to plug you can turn it to fit with just a drill and some sandpaper. I've also seen them blocked with freeze plugs.

To plug the holes in the head you might try threading a aluminum rod to fit the tapped holes to keep the thermo-expansion more on the same level. 

I would bleed the brakes first see if things firm up before starting to throw parts at it, that will come soon enough.

3 hours ago, esty said:

good glue traps catch spiders, bugs and mice

And the cat.