Son of Marty

With new seals you need to scrub the glue surface on them with steelwool and 3m adhesive remover or the like, it seems the manufactures now use mold release with silicon in it to get them to stick, using screws will collapse the seal and you'll get a air leak and perhaps a torn seal. 

I'm with Mike before throwing money at it right off the bat, you'll have other opportunity's to do that soon enough, check the platform mounts and rear brace things are real tight in there and anything out of shape can cause the trans to slip out of gear, the transmission I've seen tend to pop out of gear with some force not the 2 stage disengagement you spoke of.  

If you try to get the pipe compression fitting out of the ex manifold go slow use a lot of heat and penetrating oil between the cast iron and rust it is possible to break the manifold so again go slow.

I think JB Weld is becoming a universal name for epoxy and is meant for household  use while there are many stronger epoxies that bond better than JB I would look for a epoxy with some metal content like Devcon or Marine Tex or even Redhand. I've seen Redhand used to repair cracked wet liner seats which tend to crack on Cat diesels with great success. I've patched a whole about the size of a deck of playing cards on a Allison v12 with Devcon and had it last for years and a few thousand liters of nitrous.

Yup them the ones.

Pull the plugs and examine the porcelain right where it meets the steel screw base sometimes they will break loose and leak.

No need that I see, that if trying the JB weld, to remove the head, if that don't stop the leak then the next step would be to remove the head and weld it and have it skimmed along with the front cover.

Well you already have the fixed camber plates, the factory on most cars had aluminum spacers of various height's that should be available form some on here.

2 hours ago, rjd2 said:

searching for "alternator bracket" just gets me the bracket that connects to the "seated" side of the alternator, not the adjustable side.

 

Search alternator arm, see if that brings up anything usefull.

Clean the crack out with brake clean a couple of times then work the JB weld into the crack with a tooth pick and let it set up for 24 hours or so.

After the nut is torqued down the lock plate surrounds the nut and you'll see a small divot on the flange, in your picture it looks like it's at the 12 o'clock position, with a punch bend the edge of the lock plate into the divot.

Try a skinnier spacer.

Return to vendor, address unknown, make it better or refund me plus shipping.

I'd start shopping for a factory ti air cleaner it'll tame the intake noise quite a lot.

The glued in reinforcement is a square light only to meet fed standards. The panel is not welded to the outer fender the gap is filled with a mastic material.

Here's the replacement part at W&N.

The hood pads will cut the noise a bit mostly on the outside of the car, I don't think the trunk pads won't add much.

Volvo IMO probably would be near the top of the list, MB would be another one.,

No your car will most likely start at 25 psi but will run somewhat lean, you need the csi to get the car to start well though.

Not the major problem here but 25 psi fuel pressure is too low needs to be at least 28-30 psi, and yes I know it seems like close enough but it's not. Is your cold start injector working?

Out=Richer.

I also wonder if your master cyl. is leaking in to the booster, hard braking or a sharp turn can cause this fluid to get sucked back into the intake manifold and it does burn white. If the car still runs well I'd drive it some more and see if it repeats the smoking routine. 

I rebuilt a few of those and it's bigger brother the Griffon beautiful engines along with the Allison's

it has always surprising the quality of the machine work in them at a time when engine output was king. 

5 hours ago, Conserv said:

I’d say Glasurit’s paint-testing processes were… wholly inadequate!

 

At the time all the paint manufactures had the same problem, the u/v protection added at the time would add a yellow tint to the finish so it was used sparingly, if at all, this lead to a expansion and temperature difference that sooner or later broke the bond between the base coat and clear coat.

If you have a early car the flasher knob might be on the dash to the left of the interments or on a very early car the left underside of the lower dash covers. Other wise the button on the counsel might not lock the flasher button down so that they are always on. search here for a fix.