Son of Marty

Most digital dwell meters will also display RPM's and some are under 40 bucks, or you could keep Tom (mintgrun) as the worlds top Innova salesman and buy one of their fine timing lights he's only 3 away from getting the coveted Golden Timing Light Lifetime Achievement Award.

If you could find a VW Sirocco in a wrecking yard most had the mono wiper. 

I would not get hooked up on a color, option or model the condition is, after 50 years, the most important thing.

I'd pack extra gas and get on the track when ever you can, you'll have the time of your life, just remember you're there to learn not to wow anybody.

9 minutes ago, RD02 said:

Anyone not use the fuel return valve with their Weber?

Yes more than a few.

Did you preload the CSB when installed?

2002's don't use threaded in studs leads me also to believe you're running 320i hubs as Andrew said easy to check out. When I remove the calipers I leave all the lines and hoses tight and remove the 2 bolts and hang it off the solid brake lines on the car with a wire tie, don't let it hang on the hoses. The ground section on your calipers just might have been ground down on purpose to fit the wheels which is common on the Volvo big brake convention which also uses the 320i hubs. 

Hope this helps.

Marty

I would beware of all the black undercoating with out seeing before pictures,  you can cover a lot of sin's under it.

35 minutes ago, John76 said:

If what the BMW Group Classic is saying is true about the 6000 annual requests for "Birth Certificates", there must be many duplicates. Of all the '02s manufactured,

John it's more than just 2002's requesting the certificates from the classic owners. BMW made many more models than the 02, just none as good😎.

You can also repair the shift platform and linkage to tighten up the shift gates.

From your pictures it looks like your front wheels are way far aft from the normal position, it might be the flairs or a problem with the suspension itself.

Do a search for 74 seatbelt interlock or relay, It's a 74 only deal that keeps the starter motor from engaging unless all occupied seats are buckled up, this was almost always bypassed by unplugging the seat sensors but this still leaves the relay in the system it just thinks no seats are occupied all's OK until the relay wears out.  

On the Cannon manifolds some times the enrichment section on the carbs hit the manifold and prevent a air tight seal, it's a easy fix and worth checking out. Also are you using the anti vibration  isolation mounts or the solid spacers?

Pic's of the carbs, please.

Ah Mike you know it's never easy, but just be aware that cast iron has no give it just breaks.

Please attach a picture of you set up on the car. Your jetting looks reasonable for a 9.5 to 1 car with a stock cam, what fuel pressure are you running and how are your floats set, but if you can't get them to sync I think is your first point of correction.

The power of the buff?........Oh wrong buff. sorry.

You'll see some lift from new strut bearings which you need anyway, if it's not enough it's easy enough to slip the aluminum spacers on top with out removing the strut.

48 minutes ago, visionaut said:

Tetra-ethyl lead was quite good - very small amounts provided significant reductions in detonation - but a neurotoxin... 

When I was a young lad I remember driving through the rail fright yard looking for a lost car load of cantaloupe and passing a tank car clearly labeled Tetra-ethyl additive and leaking a stream from the bottom valve onto the ground, you Mom was right don't play on the R/R tracks.

With new seals you need to scrub the glue surface on them with steelwool and 3m adhesive remover or the like, it seems the manufactures now use mold release with silicon in it to get them to stick, using screws will collapse the seal and you'll get a air leak and perhaps a torn seal. 

I'm with Mike before throwing money at it right off the bat, you'll have other opportunity's to do that soon enough, check the platform mounts and rear brace things are real tight in there and anything out of shape can cause the trans to slip out of gear, the transmission I've seen tend to pop out of gear with some force not the 2 stage disengagement you spoke of.  

If you try to get the pipe compression fitting out of the ex manifold go slow use a lot of heat and penetrating oil between the cast iron and rust it is possible to break the manifold so again go slow.

I think JB Weld is becoming a universal name for epoxy and is meant for household  use while there are many stronger epoxies that bond better than JB I would look for a epoxy with some metal content like Devcon or Marine Tex or even Redhand. I've seen Redhand used to repair cracked wet liner seats which tend to crack on Cat diesels with great success. I've patched a whole about the size of a deck of playing cards on a Allison v12 with Devcon and had it last for years and a few thousand liters of nitrous.

Yup them the ones.