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Posts posted by Son of Marty
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35 minutes ago, Simeon said:
These are the kind of thing I was talking about to use in your angle grinder. Got few a few of these stripping my car. This is an Australian band but I am sure you can find something similar locally.
http://www.josco.com.au/product/tomcat-125mm-strip-it-disc/
Yes 3M makes the same thing, these are the bomb for stripping paint and rust off flat surfaces, but I would hesitate to use it on the tar sound deadening I'm afraid it would just clog up and you would have to toss it but once the tar is gone have at it
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Yes as Simeon said you'll need to remove all the tar and check all the floors but it looks like you should be able to patch it, the rust pattern showing on both sides of the tranny hump suggests to me that the heater box to fire wall seal is leeking
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The car transferred to Hoffman before it went on the boat as they all did back then, the car looks to be in good shape with the original engine good buy.
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Yes go with the factory style if you can it's bullet proof if you can't be sure to get a with the one center pull arm so they will stay in sync.
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Ok the last pictures with the belt on is showing bushing wear I would replace them with some poly ones from any of the FAQ vendors the rubber ones just don't last see if that take care of your squealing.
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Just now, tzei said:
Wrong water pump? Seems that crank and alt pulleys are in line but wp is not.
I agree the alt. pulley looks to be square to the crank pulley and if it was the bushings it would be tilted in toward the engine
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The 74 model year had the seat belt interlock system, most people figured out early on you could just unplug the seat sensor system and the car would start with out having to buckle up this works fine but the start signal would still go through the under dash relay this relay has likely worn out and can't pass the current to the solenoid, do a search for 74 2002 seat belt interlock there is plenty of advice on how to by pass the relay.
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1 hour ago, John_in_VA said:
Radio interference reduction is what comes to mind,
Yes it could be added to reduce interference with the AM band, probably after everything else was tried, on E28s it was part of the heated wiper spray nozzle option so I guess that grounding through the hinges was marginal at best.
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Just the other day Esty recommended Weldwood vinyl roof/landau top contact cement for this job she says none of the 3M products have a high enough heat rating when it comes to interiors I would sure follow Esty's advice.
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Old gas is why I always buy a lawn mower with a Briggs and Straton engine they will run on anything that resembles gas even if it's 30 years old
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I'm afraid interference may cause tread lock between the gas pedal and my Ho Chi Minh sandals!!!!
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Toby you can't be VP we need you to be our ambassador to ATE
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Somewhere in Canada Red Green is smiling
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The shaft stops just short of being flush with the back of the head if I remember correctly it's been a while. the shaft is bored straight through from from to back ass the same size.
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I would take it to a auto body supply store and ask the guy on the paint side what he thinks would be the right way to do it, today's paint are complex and if you don't do the proper prep and use the right paint you'll have nothing but trouble
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The intake rocker shaft has no plug on that end and it feeds the O/P sender, but all 3 passages intersect in that area the head bolt locks the rocker shaft in position and the bolt hole in question goes through to the head bolt hole because there isn't enough metal there for a blind hole.
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I don't think the oil is seeping past the threads I believe it's coming from the junction between the head and the oil pressure sender boss this is exposed to direct oil pressure obviously and that bolt is the only thing holding that corner down so we are probably stuck with the washer.
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51 minutes ago, LarsAlpina said:
Three or four years ago I broke a two-arm puller and a bigger three-arm puller on one of these hubs.
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I also broke a 3 arm puller on a hub when it broke it shot a 1/4"x 2" sliver of metal hard enough to bounce off the cement floor and puncture the tire I put under the rear of the rocker, it sliced my leg badly when I slid out to find out what the hissing sound was, the sliver was beyond razor sharp and I knew it hit the floor because it went into the tire at a upward angle.
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6500 'Merican' dollars a little rich for me but very nice to look at.
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That's pretty cool, I wonder if that system has enough capacity to work in a 2002 who's engine bay is much more open to air than a air cooled VW. As stated by Peter make sure all fuel lines are sound and flexible and carry a dry chem extinguisher also if your extinguisher is mounted flat you need to take it out and shake it every year or so over time the powder can get packed down due to vibration and you'll use up a lot of the propellant before it breaks up.
P.S. that vet was toast once you get fiberglass burning a hand held won't put it out.
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Please post the dimensions when you get them just so we have a record
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42 minutes ago, vacca rabite said:
Mix equal parts acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Shake that up (it separates) and put that on the nuts for several days. Tap them with a hammer with each application. This is a much better penetrating oil then anyhting you can buy off the shelf. .
Zach
Yes this stuff is the best penetrating oil out there and dirt cheep mix it up as you need it and a Qt of each will last for many years.
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50 minutes ago, gordon415 said:
That did the trick! I could hear it burping when I slowly pulled that heater hose free. I took the same drive I did this morning and the temp gauge didn't go any higher than 3 o'clock. Woo hoo! Thanks for your help!!!
Some are harder to purge than others, I never could figure out why, must be a karma thing.
Help! Is it made of rust?
in BMW 2002 and other '02
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Zach, damn you and your project Blinky I'll be watching all day and the wife is going to be pissed. Oh well a mans got to do what a mans got to do