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'76mintgrün'02

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Everything posted by '76mintgrün'02

  1. '76mintgrün'02
    Does anyone want to try to fix this?
  2. '76mintgrün'02
    Yet, condenser is just a fancy name for capacitor and there are still plenty of those being made. I suspect it is another quality control issue with Bosch. I've read similar complaints about the quality of their points and plug wires. I think the decline of radiator shops has a bit to do with regulations/toxicity issues, but I also wonder how many radiators are made with copper and brass today. It seems like most are aluminum and plastic and they're not as easy/practical to repair. I also think it has to do with cheap stuff being made off-shore competing with the cost of labor to have it repaired in the USA. Hence, our throw-away mentality. The decline of alternator repair shops is probably due to similar market issues. Distributor repair shops too. That's why it's important/helpful to learn to fix our own stuff. Just for fun, here's what a condenser looks like opened up. The cylindrical piece is a roll of foil ribbon. Here's what's inside a PerTronix I Ignitor. Tom
  3. '76mintgrün'02
    I'm a fan of keeping threads going, as opposed to starting new ones. You could add 'broken tab' to your title, by editing the first post. Or, start a new thread if that's your preference. Here's an old thread that shows an aluminum tab reinforcement. It just resurfaced today, so I figured I'd link it. Here is the reinforcement piece Blunttech sells. BluntTech Industries • HEATER VALVE MOUNT REINFORCEMENT WWW.BLUNTTECH.COM This plate was designed to reinforce the original plastic bracket that the heater valve mounts to. After becoming brittle from age, heat cycling, and the heater valve being open and closed, it is not uncommon for the mount to break. Made in the USA . I'll just make my own when I get around to doing mine, but sometimes it is more convenient to order something pre-made. Tom
  4. '76mintgrün'02
    Your gap testing results may have to do with the type of plug you are using. The consensus here is that the old copper plugs are better for these engines. As for sorting out the resistor situation, it depends on when your car was built. Pre '74 cars had a ceramic ballast resistor, whereas the 74-76 cars have a resistor wire hidden in the sheath that runs to the coil. It will look like a speaker wire with clear insulation. Posting photos is often helpful and usually entertaining. Tom
  5. '76mintgrün'02
    I don't think so, but I don't know much about plug gaps with PerTronix. They offer three styles now. I, II and III. The original style requires 3 ohms of resistance from the coil, which is what the blue coil provides. It's got resistance built in, so you'll want to eliminate the ballast resistor, or the resistor wire, if they're still inline. The PerTronix II and i believe III only require .6 ohms of resistance, so you can use a warmer coil with those, if you'd like.
  6. '76mintgrün'02
    I also agree with Mike, that the quality of condensers currently being offered is questionable. (So I've read). I keep a spare in the ashtray, along with a set of points, in case they fail while I'm out and about. Otherwise, I don't bother changing the condenser. I've got a toolbox drawer with used condensers that still test-out within spec., so I won't be buying new ones anytime soon. I'm especially fond of the ones that have GERMANY stamped in them. I'll give you my dwell meter when you pry it from my cold dead hands.
  7. '76mintgrün'02
    I agree with 2002iii and recommend using the standard .024" - .028" plug gap. Bigger is not better, unless you're using a higher energy system. As I understand it, the spark gets weaker if it has to reach too far. I usually set the gap to the small end of the range because it will get bigger as they erode. Tom
  8. '76mintgrün'02
    The EA81 engine doesn't have a timing chain (or belts), it has gears linking the cams and crank. Yours had the cool third-eye light hiding behind the flip-up emblem in the grille. (mine doesn't) I put a BMW 2002 resonator and muffler in my '84 Subaru GL 4x4 wagon. It sounds a bit throatier in that car than it does on my 2002. The Subaru is my designated salt-car and has the rust to prove it. It's been incredibly dependable for a $600 car that's now up to 265k miles. It has the hill-holder feature, but it isn't hooked up. Starting off on a hill is just part of the fun when driving a stick. It's a brilliant design though. It's about as rare to see another of that series Subaru on the road now as it is to see a 2002, but when I do happen to see one, we usually wave. Rusty as it is, mine still receives compliments. There are still a few 2002s being driven in this part of the country and a fair number of e21s. I get waves from either car, typically; but also from a variety of similar-vintage cars. Tom Tom
  9. '76mintgrün'02
    Here's a link to that sale, just for fun/comparison. Euro 1966 BMW 1600-2 for sale on BaT Auctions - sold for $21,500 on September 30, 2020 (Lot #37,171) | Bring a Trailer BRINGATRAILER.COM Bid for the chance to own a Euro 1966 BMW 1600-2 at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #37,171. Smothering the underside with undercoating had already been done prior to the first auction. (my least-favorite sales-prep move). I thought the same thing about detailing the engine bay. It looks untouched between auctions, aside from a new fuel filter and battery. It comes with extra fuses and a bulb.
  10. '76mintgrün'02
    Heat gun, maybe? Shock can help too, like carefully tapping on it with a hammer between two flat pieces of wood. My friend Charlie replaced his original antenna and it made a huge difference in radio reception. Water comes out of mine, when I move it up and down. It still moves smoothly though. Tom
  11. '76mintgrün'02
    Thanks for digging that up. This is the line I remembered from that post, "I wouldn't bet on it [them being in good shape overall] ...optical degradation of the reflector is grossly advanced well before you can see it with the naked eye; by the time it's progressed far enough to be described as "just a little imperfect" the lamp is dead." Vintage stuff is fun, but my Cibies were DONE. Here's the photo I shared in the Koito thread. I do like the way the reflectors matched my paint, but decided it was time for some new ones. Tom
  12. '76mintgrün'02
    With ET18 x 5-1/2" e21 steel wheels and 185/70-13 tires, my car rubbed on the front fenders if I hit a large bump at low speeds while turning. Otherwise they were fine, but the previous owner had rolled the fenders when they put those wheels on. I found/installed stock wheels and the rubbing went away. The steering is much lighter too, due to the decreased scrub radius. I never noticed any rubbing in back. (This is with H&R springs, which lowered the car a bit). Tom
  13. '76mintgrün'02
    I recently learned a searching-trick that's been coming in handy. Type in a topic and click search. Then, click "more search options" and use the "search by author" option. I did that with "headlight reflector" and "Conserv" and got only 13 results. A few do mention having them redone. I'll let you have the fun of digging out the information/names. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/search/?&q=headlight reflector &type=forums_topic&quick=1&author=Conserv&nodes=8&search_and_or=and&sortby=newest Old Cibies sell well on ePay. There was a recent sale of two 7" bulbs for $130 and they're corroded inside like mine. The glue that attaches the lens to the reflectors is probably failing as well. Yet, they sold for good money. I have a friend who changed out lenses and reflectors between bulbs and he said it was a pain in the butt. Tom
  14. '76mintgrün'02
    Here are links to Daniel Stern's articles on wiring and aiming lights. Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply WWW.DANIELSTERNLIGHTING.COM Detailed technical information: Fix dim headlamps! Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply WWW.DANIELSTERNLIGHTING.COM Tom
  15. '76mintgrün'02
    Last night I connected the new harness to the battery and the driver side bulb, leaving the passenger side on the original harness. The new wiring appears to make a difference, so I may wind up using it after all. If I do, I will shorten the wiring to fit, since they’re way longer than they need to be. Tom
  16. '76mintgrün'02
    I'd reconnect it, if you can get a hose on there without damaging the plastic tab that holds the valve. Fresh coolant will protect the heater core from corrosion. The flaps that control air flow through the box have open cell foam to seal them. When the foam fails, air is forced through while driving. It doesn't get all that warm where I live, so I just live with warm air coming in at my feet. Last summer, I was on a road trip and it was in the nineties in Eastern Washington, so I pulled over and plugged the heater outlet vents with pieces of a foam sleeping mat. That 'fixed' it. As for sealing the heater box to the cowl, you could try pressing 3M strip caulk along the bottom of the seam. It might be hard to reach back in there, but maybe a stick of some sort would work. My kluge fixes probably offend some people, but I entertain myself by finding work arounds when I don't feel up for doing it right. Tom
  17. '76mintgrün'02
    Have you checked to see if the cable is pulling the valve all the way closed? My valve wasn't working when I bought the car. I got lucky and found that the screw that attaches the lever arm to the valve was loose, so it didn't turn the valve. I aligned the hole in the tab and tightened the screw and that fixed it. The valves have a hole in the plate to let some coolant circulate when it is in the closed position, so that might explain why yours is letting some through when closed. (At least the late model cars do). Tom
  18. '76mintgrün'02
    Be careful around the plastic tab that holds the valve. They're brittle. My valve leaked into my floor pan too. Tightening the hose clamp(s) made it stop. Coolant got into the car because the seal at the top of the box doesn't live up to its name anymore. I pulled the carpet and repainted the floor, but haven't done anymore to the heater. I can relate to putting-off repairs, doing things twice and also the emphasis on keeping it on the road. I'm eager to hear where it's leaking. I hope you're as lucky as I was. One of these years I'll rebuild that box and replace those old hoses. Tom
  19. '76mintgrün'02
    It's funny how many shades of mintgreen I've seen. It's a color that can be wrong in a lot of good ways. I googled 90's era alpinagreen with image search and then added 2002 and this car came up on reddit. The color looks similar to the other search hits, but lighting and surroundings make a huge difference in color perception. Especially over the innernets.
  20. '76mintgrün'02
    Old stuff? I'm still enjoying points/condensers over here. I think I might be a luddite. Tom
  21. '76mintgrün'02
    Not with the Ignitor Twoo. That one only needs .6 ohms. His coil marked "no resistor needed" probably has around 3 ohms built in (like the bosch caribe coils). The ballast resistor should be bypassed and a 'hotter' coil could be used. The original ignitor requires 3 ohms though. http://www.pertronix.com.au/assets/pdf/Pertronix_Ignitor_2_Installation_Instructions.pdf
  22. '76mintgrün'02
    I tend to agree with Henn. I'd be thrilled to have a caribe car with that interior.
  23. '76mintgrün'02
    It's tempting to wire the new harness as described above, with +/- connected to the battery and tapping into the driver's side bulb plug; but leave the passenger's side connected to the original harness to compare brightness side to side. Does that seem like a valid test/comparison? Hopefully the old wiring makes them just as bright as the new, so I don't need to clutter things up; but if they're noticeably brighter with the new harness, it might be worth tucking it in someplace inconspicuous. Tom
  24. '76mintgrün'02
    If the puddle box still has the foamy cover on the outside, it'd be good to peel it off so it can dry out. The covers trap clutch juice and rot the box. Mine was so bad I had to weld in a patch piece. That made it an especially satisfying job.
  25. '76mintgrün'02
    It’s interesting to see the variation in how the bulbs fit the grilles. Mine seem to protrude more than Visionaut’s. I didn’t use the wiring harness. I did make some little plastic backed 400grit sandpaper tabs to insert in the old wire terminals to remove oxidation. It was a good job for screw grabbing drivers and magnets, with all the little fasteners. I’ll have to look into adjusting them to make sure they’re not offensive to other drivers. They will be much brighter than my old Cibies. One of the lenses actually came apart when I removed the screws! I like vintage stuff and the old ones blended in nicely, but sometimes new is necessary. Tom
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