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Brian

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  1. Brian
    Sold?....or still available? Thank you.
  2. Brian
    http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/store/#ecwid:category=361512&mode=product&product=1222023
  3. Brian
    http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/2722447839.html
  4. Brian
    Good for you. Go for it. Looks like you have everything under control. You'll see that getting the rotor back to the same position, there'll be no need to reset the ignition timing from what you have now. And it will be so nice not to have that oil dripping down onto the exhaust. I know I enjoyed that part of the successful project.
  5. Brian
    The oil pressure switches/sensors do fail. I had the flickering light, but was really close to home so just motored gently on. I had an extra switch and installed it. Problem (and the flickering light) went away. Now I have an oil pressure gauge installed, which would have removed most of the doubt.
  6. Brian
    Don’t get too anxious about this. I’ve done it twice, and it’s not all that difficult. I would recommend removing the flange with the distributor attached. Before doing it, mark the direction in which the rotor is pointing; make a mark on the edge of the distributor body. Having said all this, from the moment of removing the flange/distributor, do not move the vehicle with it in gear or turn the engine over. This is because when you put things back together you want the rotor pointing to the very same spot. That way, there’s no change to the timing. I’ve avoided using gasket sealant on this installation. I’ve only used a light coating of oil on both sides of the gasket so it doesn’t go on dry. You mention you have purchased two of the distributor shaft O-rings. The moment you pull the distributor out to change/renew that O-ring, you will need to set the timing again. If the leak is not coming from that area, you might do well to leave that repair until later. If you insist on pulling the distributor from the flange, then, yes set the engine to TDC. When you put everything back together you can set the distributor with the rotor pointing towards the #1 plug position. Usually there’s a small notch/mark engraved in the edge of the distributor body.
  7. Brian
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=ST12&mospid=47140&btnr=32_0969&hg=32&fg=05 I think those curves are there to clear the drag link.
  8. Brian
    Very nice! 1322514190-picsay.jpg Isn't the outer tie rod end straight and the inner tie rod end curved?
  9. Brian
    Very few E30s in Mexico. That's a nice one. I've driven mine from El Salvador to Cancun and Mazatlan and got plenty of looks.
  10. Brian
    amazon.com does a pretty good job of organizing all the parts offered for a particular model and year. You could perhaps show different links to the parts offerings depending on the car. Here, for example, is the link to everything they offer specifically for a 1974 2002 (non-tii): http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show/1974/BMW/2002?ie=UTF8&Model=2002%7C160&Make=BMW%7C31&Year=1974%7C1974&partsNode=15719731&carId=007 Parts, by category, are shown in the index on the left side of the page. Makes it pretty easy to shop, or at least check prices.
  11. Brian
    So many things to check, but if it comes down to the alternator, there's a rebuilt on amazon.com for $50: http://www.amazon.com/Quality-Built-13018-Premium-Alternator-Remanufactured/dp/B000ESDD7A/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Model=2002%7C160&n=15684181&s=automotive&Make=BMW%7C31&Year=1974%7C1974&carId=007 It might also turn out to be the voltage regulator, which costy about half that. I believe you can take your alternator to car parts retailers and they can check it out on their in-store equipment.
  12. Brian
    Hello Group: We see that the 2002 has a number of “ball-and-socket” joints in its steering linkage and suspensión: Inner tie rod ends Outer tie rod ends Center tie rod or “drag link”, and the Ball joints mounted on the control arm In your collective wisdom/experience, which of these tend to exhibit the greatest wear and are most frequently changed? Similarly, which appear to be “indestructible”, if any, and hardly ever wear out or last a long. long time? Also, the rubber mountings up front….the inner and outer control arm bushings and the front rubber mounting for the tension strut: Which of those seem to wear out any faster than the others? Thanks in advance for your answers and input.
  13. Brian
    Exactly as you explained it. Fit the blades of the crossed flat screwdrivers into the "slots" on diametrically opposed sides of the sender. Now twist counterclockwise and it releases, like the lid off a jar.
  14. Brian
    I have changed the distributor flange gasket twice on M10s. In both cases, before removing anything I marked the position of the rotor ‘nose’ on the edge of the distributor (cap removed). Now you can remove the entire assembly, distributor still attached. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE ENGINE OR MOVE THE CAR WHILE IN GEAR WITH THE DISTRIBUTOR/FLANGE ASSEMBLY REMOVED! Replace the gasket and prepare to reassemble. Pre-load the rotor position because you’ll see it attempting to rotate as you mesh the gears. There aren’t that many teeth, so through trial-and-error you’ll quickly get back to the original position, rotor facing the mark you made on the edge of the distributor housing. Insert and tighten the 5 bolts. Careful..they are of different lengths, and one has an O-ring. Be certain to replace that O-ring as it can be another source of oil leak(s).
  15. Brian
    I had this happen on my E30 (M10...318i). I believe it was a sticky oil pressure relief valve. I put a new oil filter on and it didn't happen again, but I bought a new oil pump and had that changed. Have not experienced the problem again.
  16. Brian
    I'm in the middle of nowhere (read: Esteli, Nicaragua). I crimp the line, add fluid (if possible) and drive it.....carefully.
  17. Brian
    I hope you get an answer because we’re planning on doing the exact same thing on a 2002 we’re preparing in Costa Rica for a rally in Panama in January. It sounds as though you did all the wiring correctly, and what’s more puzzling is that it tested out good prior to your install. One thing: we have TWO small blue wires coming into the D+ terminal at the voltage regulator. As I understand things, one goes to the ‘diagnostic tester’ block near the fuse box; the other goes to the test/warning lamp in the instrument panel. That last one is the wire that should go to the D+ terminal on the back of the alternator. Possible that you connected to the ‘diagnostic tester’ block wire, and not the warning lamp wire?
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