mike472

Toby you’re right. If it’s oil it’s probably the upper cover. Get the water pump anyway. I’ve driven messy motors too but I’d give that motor a good cleaning before I started taking it apart. You don’t want any of that crud falling into the oil pan.

Buy a water pump. That’s what’s leaking from under the fan hub. When you replace aluminum washer under bolt of “protruding thing” otherwise known as cam chain tensioner make sure you bleed it. Once you bolt front cover back on and you’re just about ready to close things up, take an oil can with some fresh engine oil in it and squirt into the small cavity the tensioner sits in til it’s overflowing. Take a screwdriver and pump the piston in and let it spring out and keep doing it until you feel strong resistance when you do it. You will see bubbles coming out too. Once the bubbles stop and you feel the resistance get heavy, it’s bled. You don’t want to miss this small but important detail. You might want to check the condition of the plastic chain guides and tensioner rail along with cam chain, oil pump chain and sprocket's for cam chain on the crank and the top sprocket bolted to cam while you have the cover off. Look for wear on the rubber part of the tensioner. Also take a look at how much slack there is in the oil pump chain. I took apart an engine with 60k on it and oil chain was stretched and had enough slack to just about hit the casting on one side. I had a bunch of shims but when you have to use too many like over 5, get a new chain. New chain was needed in this case with one shim. The cam chain, tensioner and plastic rails in that engine were still okay. These are a little more involved to change. If you decide to do this set engine cam marks to top dead center. Do not just leave engine in some random position when and if you take the cam chain off.

Come on guys, there’s still a little rubber left there. Just fill in with a little of Marty’s shizzle and you’ve got it

I just got a set as well and found him to be a little late sometime but have bought two sets over last ten years plus a spoiler and have always found him to be reliable. Much more cost effective to buy them. You'd have a hard time making them as nice at home for the material, time and trouble. They are heavy guage material that you're not going to bend too easily or get as nice a bend as the pro shop that makes these unless you own a really heavy break to bend it and a nice method of cutting either with plasma or something similar.

You definitely helped me with tuning and throttle linkage. I can see why they hired you. Good luck Carl!

Not surprised. I contacted them over 1 1/2 years ago

Call 718 370-2018 and speak to Javier. Tell him you’re a friend of mine with a 2002 and you would like him to fix your dash. I’m about a mile away if you want some company or you want to see my cars. They’re not big on having a website. There talent lies elsewhere

Checked out "Justdashes.com" after seeing them on a Jay Leno episode. They will do your 02 dash for about 2800. Completely new skin vacuformed over your old foam after it's been repaired. Beautiful work. Saw some dashes on their website they had done for 02's and a CS. I got mine done locally with my interior guy Brimar Upholstory for $700 with great result. It had a few cracks and a hole I drilled in it to install a guage cluster to the right of the instrument binnacle were repaired and the texture was matched. He then painted it with a vinyl paint which looks great. IMG_1031.mov

Got a front and rear from W&N in 22 and it shipped in good shape first time out. It was packed pretty well and looked like it stayed on the pallet it was originally put on with UPS

You could buy a Megasquirt ECU and use that instead. It will work with all the components you have and is user friendly and has support. I use it in one of my cars with almost the same setup as yours. Do a search on the forum and you will see a lot of people here use MS and have posted a lot of interesting information on it including maps.

Don’t try to open up relays to clean them. Just buy three new ones. They’re cheap enough. That’s a good preventative maintenance thing. Especially in 50 year old cars

You don’t need the harness for a 75. It might make your lights a little brighter but the wiring in the car now is good enough. If you had a 73 or earlier I’d say use it.

Ed is right about this method. I didn't think of it but it's definitely less risky then trying to bend the shaft back. I would only do that if you can't shift smoothly through the gears. You don't want to put the trans in and then find out it's binding as you try to go through the gears. After you do it I would check on it after a few hundred miles to make sure things are good and it's not rubbing.

Look for openings in your firewall under the dash. Frequently the speedo cable grommet is missing where it passes through the firewall into the engine compartment. Also the three rubber seals in your engine compartment have to be in good shape. The two short ones on either side of the engine compartment near the windshield and the long one that goes across the underside of the hood the comes to rest on the body right in front of those two short ones. Once you open windows in the car you create a vacuum within the car sucking all those fumes from your engine compartment into the ventilation system. I'd say that's the likely culprit.

I'd make sure your transmission still can shift through all the gears. Usually if you bent it that much it would affect the shifting. You have almost no clearance at 1.8mm. If you want to bend it up further you might try heating it but you will burn the seals and have to replace them. If you try this I would take the seals out of the trans first. You don't want to burn them and have them stuck in there. You'll have to get it almost red hot before it will bend. This is best done with trans out of the car. Try to see where the bend is and put a small straight edge on it first to see how much it's bent and check as you bend it back to see how much you need to bend it.

I'm glad I bought 4 sets. Installed on the Inka car and I'm going to change out the Marchal Ampilux lights on my other car. I actually think these throw a little more light and have a great look to them. Love that thick glass lense.

Mike I found out it is a lux model. He saw that black background with the “L” and wondered what it meant. He asked me what was different about the lux package. Sorry for the thread hijack

The car is still in Lebanon in a relative’s garage. I have to ask him about the lux badge. Didn’t notice that. Good catch Mike! He sent me a video of him and his dad driving the car around Beirut. It sounded like it ran well. It was owned by a local BMW club member who also had an Inka car for sale. From his description and the photos I’d say he got himself a good car. Nice dry climate that’s probably good for finding rust free cars. Now the trick is getting it home. I used Wallenius lines a big car shipper when I imported two gray market cars picked up in Bremerhaven, Germany. Little tricky getting it back from Lebanon. Especially with what’s going on in that part of the world. He’s researching that now. Here are some other shots of the car.

I know a young 2002 fan who I met at a cars and coffee locally. He got the bug to get an 02 after seeing my car and a couple of weeks later he showed up with what we would call a 5 footer in Malaga. Paid $5000 for it. I went inside to look because I could already see the hole in the back of the front wheel well. Pulled up the passenger's side rug and there was roadway showing through. Other areas around the car were starting to rust. mostly in areas where normal people won't bend down to look into. Rear wheels were decambered way beyond normal. The Cape Cod weather and salt where this car came from had rusted the subframe and underside of the car badly. It was actually so bad it had bent in the middle, giving him what looked like about 5 degrees of negative camber. I told him to sell it and spend 15k and get a car he could improve and not have to restore. I sold him a complete rear subframe I had and he replaced the whole thing. After all that he sold it and went out and bought yet another car for 5K that looked sort of nice(Agave) with decent looking paint(still a 5 footer), yet had rust around subframe mounts and frame rails that were rusted through. Lots of other stuff that would cost to fix. Told him to get rid of it and luckily he did for what he paid for it. Again, he didn't get down on his back to give a good look underneath. He finally waited long enough and on a trip to Beirut, Lebanon he scored the Golf (I think)car below through his uncle for 15K. Took him two projects to learn. He is now really happy with his only problem being DMV not being open right now in Beirut to do the paperwork to bring it home. From the looks of it he got a car he'll be proud to own that's one he can just improve, not restore.

Welcome to the forum. This forum is one of the best tools you can get to work on your car. There's a wealth of knowledge here and good people willing to share it. Your car looks like it's in great condition in a very nice color. Good luck with it!

Another question to ask yourself is, why do you want a tii? That 20K will buy you a lot in terms of an ordinary 02 that's been worked over a bit. A damn nice one at that. Unless you're a purist and have to have that cool mechanical injection system which is difficult to modify and keep in good operating condition, then go for it. I've sunk way more then anyone should on 02's so I might be off the deep end with what I did with my cars and done what makes no financial sense. They're not even tii's. I have fun doing it and I like doing things as perfect and special as I can make them. That costs big money. Most people get weak in the knees when they ask me what it costs but if your a real car guy and love the results, you'll do it. You won't find many cars out there that are done to a high standard that come cheap, and as someone else pointed out, the details and condition are everything. It take big bucks to do a thorough restoration and it looks like that car will need a lot of TLC to get it right again. I think you better leave the bar and go home immediately 🙄 and sleep it off.

Visionaut is right. I messed up on that one. I like the Kamei version better though. Especially if you’re not running a front bumper

Piere is his name and here is his website for spoiler: Kamei Repro Spoiler WWW.PROBIMMER.COM

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I’ll go back and get a little more aggressive now that I’ve heard these comments. Tried the hot water but not the dish soap or folding them to the extreme.

Having a problem installing a new set of these “brake piping insulators” I got from Blunt. His is the one I’m holding in my hand. Blunts and the ones that W&N sells are thicker and impossible to get in. I contacted Steve and he told me they’re what he gets as original equipment now. I had a new one from my other 02 project laying around that was about half the thickness and a different durometer rubber. Went in quickly..Steve suggested hot water, which I did along with a mild heat gun. Flipped them forward and backwards. No dice. Has anyone else had this problem? If you purchased these and they worked, where did you get them? These are definitely wrong or someone has Superman fingers. Thanks