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Kpeters

Solex
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Everything posted by Kpeters

  1. I've always said if you want reliability get a GOOD old car. The 2002 I haven't drive much since it has been below driveable conditions ever since I got it but the E21 has been so incredibly reliable that in 7 years it hasn't let me stranded even once! Just small stuff like the solex 4a1 carb acting up... Now don't even get me started on the pos new cars. Doesn't matter the brand really, if you want something good get an old BMW,Mercedes (diesel preferably) or Volvo. Beautiful car btw!
  2. I think it should be fine for a nice megasquirt engine possibly better than a regular 2002 engine.
  3. Some stuff is specific if you can't find it at the hardware store give us a call and well look for it.
  4. Hi there right now as far as I'm concerned they are on back order. When was the last time you checked?
  5. I keep my feet off too. Try to use the clutch the least possible unless I know I will start again in a second or two.
  6. I've taken my car 12000feet up with the carb and the only thing noticeable is a little bit of power loss. I went with other friends and the cars that were actually being left stranded were the L Jetronic newer BMW's which needed AFM adjustment to go up! I'm using a Solex 4A1.
  7. The only was to keep the speedo cable with a stock transmission on an M20 is getting and Euro M20 320/6,323i,520/6 transmission. Must be fun to have a 2.7 on a 2002 though! If my E21 moves like crazy with one I can't imagine a 2002 being lighter probably very dangerous!
  8. Oil light flashes if the car runs at very low rpms while stuttering hence the pump pumps less and light goes on.
  9. When rust is visible it is usually a lot worse below the surface. Don't want to be the bearer of bad news but you might have to either change the rocker or at least have a little patch there. When I have rust sports like that I usually hit them with a small hammer lightly and hear the metal try to see how deep it's going and if it starts making holes then I brush off all rust take off all the bad metal and spray some primer while it waits for the new metal to avoid it from spreading. Best of luck! In case you want some of those we have them for $93.
  10. Hey congrats on your purchase! Sounds like a great project and very good price to get! I paid 2k for mine and I haven't made it run yet. Let me know if you need nay help!
  11. If you are cleaning the gunk on the tank drop the tank completely and clean it don't use solvents on it because all that stuff will end up clogging your injection distributor and that's not a cheap thing! Always keep cars with K-Jet and other mech fuel injections above 1/4 of a tank.
  12. Pump could be overheating and going out? Does it make any noise? They usually start whining before they go. I don't have extensive knowledge of the Kjetronic system but I do know some of their components are prone to weird faults!
  13. If not I recommend forwarding the stock parts to me specially the hazard switch, dash, rims and hubcaps, steering wheel....
  14. Well they share most parts with the coupe, touring specific parts have to come grom Germany. I just helped a customer restore his 2000 Touring about 3 months ago and we could get pretty much everything.
  15. Yeap that being said if it's a 320i then have the K-Jetronic checked. I had a problem when the car heated and the electronic distributor pulse generator would shut down and I needed to wait like 10 mins or 15 mins for it to cool down but not as much as you are describing, and it never boged down it just quitted.
  16. Beautiful! I'm taking your pictures as reference for my own 1970 project car which has been butchered with 74" parts. Looks great!
  17. Hey there welcome to the board! If you need any parts or help just give me a call . Restoring a 1970 coupe myself from the ground needs a lot of job. There a lot of knowledge around here you are at the right place.
  18. Correct I meant welding sorry about that! And again as other said avoid heating the head to much or having some guy who doesn't know what his doing touch it. It doesn't look that bad, Best luck!
  19. Or maybe you have an aftermarket windshield seal? But again if only when warm I've no idea! Some sort of intake leak vacuum leak?
  20. OMG how in hell could they break it like that is there any way you can file a dispute with the shippping company? Maybe it's possible to solder it but I think that's unlikely. The head will work even with that crack as it's not on a critical part but you will be spilling a bit of oil from there. Maybe not the best idea but....change stuf assemble head and put in some epoxy on the crack? that should keep oil off.
  21. We have al the original stuff if it's that's the way you want to go! Remember to use original windshield seals as the aftermarket are real bad. Anyone here can tell you. Cheers!
  22. As mentioned before most mechanical parts are NK. Some of the trim/body parts are more and more difficult to get with time but we do have access to new BMW reproduction parts. I'd be glad to hook you up with some parts awesome project!
  23. Only downside of points I can see is they fail more often and are not as efficient at higher rpms mostly. I'm keeping the points anyway.
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