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M3This

Solex
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Everything posted by M3This

  1. Got the rear subframe in and shocks semi mounted. KW sent me Coils that were too narrow to use the isolator pads so after going back and forth with them they are making new springs that should fit. Just have to wait two weeks
  2. Never knew that. Good info. My car is all urethane, only rubber will be on drivetrain mounts.
  3. Finally got my car off the frame roller and on jack stands so I can put the subframes back in. Feels like a big step. Plan to do the front suspension tomorrow during the rain storm we are supposed to have.
  4. After lots of help from the forum got the new bearings, custom machined sleeves so I didn’t need shims, and modified hubs with extended studs installed.
  5. Installed the new fuel tank and CF fuel filler.
  6. I sent the arms out to be media blasted and powdercoated so maybe the new PC added a couple of MM?
  7. ok so here is another monkey wrench in this saga. took the measurements: Drivers Side: Sleeve = 63.7mm Distance Between Races = 64.9mm Passenger Side: Sleeve = 63.7mm Distance Between Races = 61.6 mm Difference On DS: -1.2mm Difference On PS: 2.1 mm at this point should I just have a machine shop make me the correct size sleeves and not worry about shims? As wouldnt I need to have a machine shop turn down the Driver Side sleeve at this point?
  8. Since I don’t have shims I’m just trying to visualize how this goes together.
  9. Correct. Sorry, I forgot to mention the spacer length. So based on that above the space is going to be longer than, the space in the control arm between the bearings. So the shims will be used to fill in that space. So I can assume that the center holes on the shims are then wide enough to fit the space through so the spacer sits flush against the bearings, but the shims stop it from moving, correct?
  10. This looks like how the directions are saying to do it. So how would this work? Push in the outside bearing then measure, remove the bearing, take the measurement and divide by 2 and figure out shim size, then reassemble everything?
  11. Quick question, getting ready to do this but according to the directions it looks like the inside bearing goes in first and then you measure from the face of that. I thought you guys said that you need the shims for both side, or do you only need to put in one shim on the outside?
  12. Thanks guys for the info. I found a place in Portland that said they could redo them for $30 a liner foot so roughly 6 feet per side X 2 so around $360 each side. Let’s see how they come out.
  13. Guess I'll take that as a no that no one else makes these.
  14. Hi Guys, Before I spend an arm and leg having a place try and polish out the door vent window frame assemblies I was just curious if anyone knows of a company that makes them new? BMW looks like they discontinued them so I'm guessing restoration is the only option but was hoping someone else knew of a company here or overseas that makes them. Looking for both pieces for both sides.
  15. Anyone know where you can order new sleeves. Looks like they are EOL with BMW.
  16. Thanks this is a huge help! Any tips for getting the plate off? Dose it just pop off. As nothing seems as easy as it should be to take apart on this rear end.
  17. thanks 🙏🏻 I soaked it with PB blaster and hit with the heat gun and used my bench vise and was able to get to separate. Thanks for the help now how do I get the CV Joints off 😂
  18. Hi guys. One of my stub axels won’t come off the rest of the assembly. I removed all the bolts and it’s just staying on there like it’s been glued on. Just wondering if anyone has recommendations on how to get them apart with out breaking/damaging anything.
  19. Yeah Ill order all new stuff for everything and then measure using the guide you posted above. Thanks for the help and I'll keep this thread up to date on how it goes.
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