autoaloha

The reason I am bleeding is because I had stalling when I depressed the brakes. The reservoir was empty, I attributed it to a leaking feed hose and possibly leaking grommets around the res. hose connections, which I've replaced. This is after a long lay-up of the car not being driven. Drove great for a little bit, then I assume the fluid leaked out and began sucking air from the intake- causing the stalling. I tried the pedal bleed first and am currently using a power bleeder. No matter how many times I try(to create vacuum) and then open the bleeder valve, nothing issues except air. I am worried I'm wasting my time and doing something wrong. Here's my setup: 1. mityvac hooked up properly(checked and double checked this) 2. pump the handle about 15 times 3. open the bleeder valve about half turn 4. watch the bubbles sucked into the reservoir 5. close the bleeder valve when bubbles subside(vacuum has been equalized I believe) I have indications of vacuum being created; if I pull the connector off the bleeder I can hear the vacuum being broken(sucking sound). Any idea what's going on? Am I just not being patient enough? I've tried pumping and bleeding approx. 20-25 times on passenger rear, moved to driver rear and have the same issue- little to no fluid is issuing from the bleed valve. please advise. I even have removed the bleeders to make sure they're not plugged, nothing came out of the cavity when I did this. thanks in advance. -ken I have searched a lot btw.

aww, geez. 18 bucks for something I'll use once.... anyone have one of these they'd like to lend me? I'll pay for shipping of course and include a box of hawaiian macadamia nut chocolates wouldn't shipping to and from hawaii + a box of wax-covered nuts cost more than buying the Lisle 49000 tool for yourself? then you can use it for the rear window as well... haha, yeah... but it'd be piece of mind knowing that we didn't order another one from china, and someone lucky chap gets some 'wax covered nuts' (since when is milk chocolate waxy?). but i guess you could be right about the cost aspect... what do you think bavauto would charge me to ship it here? 10-12? plus the 18 cost, so thirty total? i bet we can get under that with USPS flatrate box. meantime- I'll try whittling a stick.

aww, geez. 18 bucks for something I'll use once.... anyone have one of these they'd like to lend me? I'll pay for shipping of course and include a box of hawaiian macadamia nut chocolates

i have searched. I know I'm supposed to use vaseline, but does anyone have any tips- this is not really working so hot. Tools, methods? TIA -ken

good look.

Hey guys, I've done some searching- and found some information, but I'm still not sure I can identify these wires. I just put in a weber 32/36 with a canon intake. I've deleted the intake air warming water jacket system. Thanks so much for any help or links! -ken http://picasaweb.google.com/113376539610818378270/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCJ2o5tn30Le5GA&pli=1#5501743804676816386

I need the vacuum line connector that threads into the intake manifold. My '74 has it cast into the manifold, and I'm trying to finish my upgrade to the Cannon 32/36 setup. If you click the link, it'd be the part which replaces #10, the screw plug. Thanks in advance, I'm in Norcal but will gladly pay for shipping if you were to be so kind as to ship for me! -ken 916 799 6607 http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2223&mospid=47140&btnr=11_2392&hg=11&fg=40

thanks for the insightful input. since i just wanted the tach( as i mentioned) the speedo won't be necessary. additionally- i am aware that the hubs are bigger, does this mean they're necessary? I will go back and get the struts tomorrow, but since they seem to charge per pound, i'd like to leave whatever i can. can i do the swap with just the calipers and struts? (i'll be buying new rotors and pads and lines in addition to parts for whatever i may have to rebuild)

I found a 2002 tii in a local junkyard! awesome! i took the calipers, took the seat belts(mine stopped retracting), took the instrument panel(i only had a clock in my automatic), took the windshield cleaner resevoir(mine wasn't OEM for some reason), and finally a locking gas cap. The engine was stripped to the long block, and there wasn't much else, but it did have the tii struts and hubs and trailing arms- all pretty rusty(as was most of the car- it is Hawaii after all). so... my question- the calipers are pretty rusty- but i want to use them for a big brake upgrade. i have seen a few faq's, but none contain part numbers. I know that exploded diagrams are everywhere online, and I wouldn't want to burden the forum with a request for the part numbers- but really, this ought to be in the faq on such topics, no? Finding the parts (numbers) are a big part of doing such a job I feel. Additionally, can I simply 'bolt on' the tii rotors and calipers- or do I need the tii struts or hubs or whatever else too? Finally, any estimation of the parts cost to rebuild a set of tii calipers, assuming I'll need to replace everything. thanks!

hey, i was looking for some 02'ers out here. email me kpfritz at hawaii.edu.

'B-ass Fisherman!' 'Neue Klasse' c'mon, you can work with that!

regular 14" e30 basketweaves sand-blasted and powder coated. They look pretty sporty in real life i think, but they are a terrible pain to keep clean. had to use the iphone since my digital camera broke. I'm slowly piecing together a dual weber 40 setup...

haha, if you're serious bring some protection. I recommend rustoleum or POR15

(nt)

that's incredible, just goes to show that appearances aren't everything! I can't imagine how they got the S14/e21 swap done with that type of malfeasance. They had to know they were doing it like crap or maybe were given too small a budget, whatever it was they were thinking there no excuse to use anything but soldering and welding in those two example pictures. Those are epic fails. the s14 deserves better... on another note, is that a roof rack on the schwartz 2002 in the garage? do you have any pics/info on it?

there's some kind of jack-off joke to be made here, but I can't think of it... i live less than a block away from the main drag in waikiki and there's all kinds of prostitutes walking up and down the street, but no thefts. weird.

I just happened to run into an old friend at the base gas station as he was on his way to donate his 325e to charity (it was a total dog). long story short, I followed him the the donation lot and pulled the seats before we turned the car over. They need new leather, but what the heck? So- any tips on how to do the fabrication to get them in? I've searched but couldn't find any pics of how people have configured the base for the rails. also- should i even bother?

in terms of price and completeness? my birthday is coming up on the 9th and this is what i've decided i want but the prices i've seen vary wildy. I need a kit that has EVERYTHING needed to perform the conversion. thanks!

yeah, i just removed my front bumper and think it looks far too good for my own good. but if i ever shell out for a fresh paint- i'd have to replace the bumper... imagine the worrying a turbo driver must do.

did you alter the inlet side too?

2nd. $1800 for a running tii with an interior that isn't in tatters is a good deal. learn how to weld and you're set.

i just got mine mounted and the center caps won't fit onto the rear wheels. i think the obstruction is the cotter pin, what did you guys do to make them fit? TIA

yay! mine is somehow worth more according to laws of economics! now if only there were way more demand for old rusted out island beaters.