Jump to content

3elements

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    200

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by 3elements

  1. 3elements
    Hmmmmm, four headlights on the car, four in the photo. There may be a pattern here...
  2. 3elements
    As someone who had a guibo bolt back out and break off a bit of my trans case, I second the good advice you've already gotten - stop driving it until you can take a look and figure out what is banging against what. Then, when you get it fixed, drive on up to Calaveras County and help me muscle my recently-welded-back-together transmission back in place!
  3. 3elements
    My favorite line on the web page is this: "Sofa lights are in working order on 12/110 volt" Damned if I can find the sofa lights on my wiring diagram!
  4. 3elements
    Very classy paint scheme - well done!
  5. 3elements
    I installed IE mounts on my '74 and Bill's right - no drilling, lots of jacking to get the clearance you need.
  6. 3elements
    Good advice - I will.
  7. 3elements
    The bolt-backing-out theory sounds right to me. After the disaster the guibo was still in place, held by seven. They were held by nylock nuts, but the failed nut-bolt are gone so I don't know what that one was. I'll use new nylocks when I reinstall. CD - There wasn't an escalation of vibration, noise or anything else. I don't ignore those kinds of symptoms. Came on sudden - a speed-related tapping followed by the bang, 30 seconds or so total. PO had done a 5-speed install a while back, but beyond that I don't have much info. No driveline vibration so I believe the balance was good, but I never checked the driveshaft alignment. (Or, obviously, the condition of the guibo bolts and nuts...) Repair options: Any ideas beyond pulling the trans and having the bit welded back on? I can use the shifter linkages to press the broken piece tight to the case, so does that make JB WEld an option (or just folly?) Thanks for the help, brethern.
  8. 3elements
    Driving the other night and got a driveline vibration then a big bang before I could get off the road. Here's the damage - guibo and the corner of the trans casing. I assume the failed guibo let the driveshaft whack around and broke the casing, but if there are different ideas about cause and effect, let me know. Anybody else ever suffer similar?
  9. 3elements
    Aqua Marine for me as well. (Isn't aqua marine redundant?)
  10. 3elements
    Great video - thanks for posting!
  11. 3elements
    Nah, why stop there? Cool deal, and should oughta keep you busy. Post pix when you get it on a track.
  12. 3elements
    Oh sure, now go talk me into it!
  13. 3elements
    So I've got my '74 in reliable shape and continue to work on the cosmetic stuff. My original plan with this car was to also use it as an occassional autocrosser, but since it is now my daily driver and primary transpo (and last time I autox'ed it the motor mounts broke...) I'd really like to get a second track-day car. And yeah, I'd prefer another '02. A day or two ago, however, I came across an '87 Honda CRX, fuel injected and nearby, for $800. Not a bad place to start for a budget racer. Started reading their forums and such for research, and quickly realized that the vibe here is simply better. I'll stick with the '02s and this crowd and passed on the CRX. Thanks one and all.
  14. 3elements
    Also might want to check to make sure your brakes are properly adjusted and not dragging.
  15. 3elements
    Check out Ireland Engineering (http://www.bmw2002.com/) for just about all things 2002 race-related. Their on-line catalog is a pretty good guide to what can be done to build a race-ready '02.
  16. 3elements
    Clearly no one on this board will try to talk you out of it! As long as you understand that any 35-year-old car will need more TLC than a new car and are willing to pay for it or learn to do it, then go for it. They are fantastically fun little cars to drive and work on. With the right manual and a minimal investment in tools, you'll be able to do the basic oil-change and tune-up maintenance in no time.
  17. 3elements
    That's the tach adaptor, right? Yes, if you want your tach to work, you need the adaptor.
  18. 3elements
    Since you asked.... My advice would be to live with the car as-is for a while before you do anything. Get to know it. Get to know how other drivers do (or often don't...) see it on the road. You might want the bigger bumpers that keep that nice sheet metal straight. Or you might discover that there are mechanical issues you want to sort out first before launching into cosmetic ones. A nice compromise with the big bumpers is to keep the back stock and shorten the front. It's not as neat as early/euro bumpers, but shortened front bumpers don't out of place. They just look like every other bumper on the road.
  19. 3elements
    Here's what I carry, and it's not too much to check onto a plane: Tools: Metric socket set and select combo wrenches (10, 11 & 14 at least.) Phillips and standard screwdrivers. Lug wrench. Pliers, wirecutters & a mag light. Spares: Distributor cap & rotor, hose clamps, bulbs & fuses. A little automotive wire. Other: Cell phone and AAA card of course. Enjoy the drive!
  20. 3elements
    I may be way off because '76s don't sell for much here in California because they have to be smogged. If the condition is as nice as you describe, (and the market is better there), I'd guess $,7500-$8,500, but don't know if you'd get that much. Seems like there should be a formula: Sales price = 25% of restoration costs + 5% of restoration hours. But maybe I'm an optimist...
  21. 3elements
    Gordon's right about the smog stuff. If there's a '76 you're really interested in, take it in to have it smogged before you buy. It's the only way to know it'll pass. If you find a car with smog parts missing, you can spend three or four times what you paid for the rest just trying to replace those parts.
  22. 3elements
    Yep, signing the pink slip is all it takes.
  23. 3elements
    I can't speak to the importing into Ohio end, but there should be no problem on the Cali end. The seller will have to file a release of liability listing your name as the new owner, but you don't need to sign that. The pink slip he or she can sign here and you sign it there and take it in to register the car.
  24. 3elements
    Great post Gordon! That sums it up nicely.
  25. 3elements
    Excellent! I know when I got my Sahara '74, it wasn't the color I was looking for and I also had a brief thought of changing it, but within a few days I fell in love with it. Now if I spray it, it'll just be to restore my Sahara paint to the condition yours is already in!
×
×
  • Create New...