felix_666

UPDATE. Anyway its been a busy few weeks. Basically just stripped the car. Just got the headliner and scripting left, but annoyingly i left organising the painters pretty late and the bloke said he'll fit me in start of next year. So i'll be mad busy trying to get everything ready to bolt back onto the car before it comes back at the end of Jan. bonnet and boot still on for space reasons empty engine bay, except for that damn speedo, still cant get it out!! the car is amazingly dusty, not sure how to clean it all out the dreaded foot well, not too bad, just a little surface rust. clean wheel well got to love that rear end it wouldn't be an 02 with out some proper rust, hopefully not too bad

near the car yard called 'peter something??'?? No its not, but i know that 02 and it looks sweet, pretty much the same as mine

thanks mate, that was really clear and in laymen terms, it helped plenty. cheers

ok, i'm not sure if i understand, in the first picture is the end of the speedo cable which does not fit through the firewall (its bigger than the hole), so i took off the o-ring and as i expected this made no difference. Bill: where is that screw located?? this is the view from inside the car, there is no way its going to fit without any alterations. (sorry about the pic size) cheers

I'm over searching, ive searched for ages with no luck - must be because its such an easy task.... hmmm Its one of a few parts i cannot seem to remove. I tried pulling it through the hole in the firewall but it isn't big enough, so i figured it must pull apart at the shaft end. This has to be easier than it seems. Also if i change the speedo from MPH to KM/H do i simply change the dial?? cheers

As you can see in the picture i have broken this little bolt, the remaining thread is stuck. It is conveniently inside the fender giving little to no space to work with. Its the bolt that attaches the rocker panel to the fender. Any ideas on how to remove this sucker with out damaging the rocker panel (too much). Obviously i would drill it out, if i could.

bump - i still need an answer about my original question.... anyone.

yeah your right, there Scheel's,i had a look at the ones on that site and there a little modern for me, or maybe its just the material he has used, not sure but i have seen some really nice Scheel's before - i think... that email is on its way tom, i've got a goodie that im thinking of flogging, you probably wont be interested but at least you can spread the word.

i tried googling them, but no luck, i think i remember some on flebay a few months ago, got any pics?? I just want some seats that are more supportive than stock ones, look period correct and will fit ok. If i find some good ones ill get em recovered in perforated leather- i love that look and smell.

depends on money and look, they have to suit, but not necessarily recaros, id prefer recaros though. What you got in mind tom?? Also what you doing with the early bumpers?? You love your early bumpers, find some more for me, or should i just send you my wanted list?? lol

the one out in woop woop. got any good e21's there? Yeah but, surely i can recover this one, did that 1600 have much rust on the body, dont want the car but if its got much rust im sure the tank will be knackered?? PS find me some local Recaros, im itching for a pair...

Yes i need some ideas on how fix my tank. Has been hit at the front. Some rust around the seams, but nothing special. Inside is clean as a whistle. I intended to use a POR-15 tank kit to clean it up, and then paint it. If i some how get the front pushed out I'm afraid it will do more damage than good as the metal has been stretched and is old. Some pretty sharp angles. What do you reckon, how have people fixed this problem or do i just leave the dents. cheers

I'm just stoked at how many oz 02ers there are on here. Off topic, but i sold some seats for a nice little profit and have bought myself a present, i don't want to jinx myself so ill wait until it arrives.

righto then, i'll have to wait until im carpeting. (plenty of time then)

really? that seems ridiculous, I'm not doubting you but that seems unnecessary when manufacturing the car, whats the point?

Is there a difference? I know its hard for anyone to really know (who owns a LHD and RHD 02?). I have checked realoem.com but it seems the same. i want to buy something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=150171050244&rd=1 cheers

Yes yes yes, you could have the COTM on the front page of the site, and during the last week of each month you'd have people posting their car and voting for the next COTM, good way to expose everyones cars. If it were a continueous thread it would be great to look through over time Doooo it!

I'm open to criticism, especially if there is a safer or easier method of doing something. cheers

Rear subframe and trailing arm removal This article is for those who haven't tinkered with their 02 much, it super easy and straight forward, just take all the precautions and time you need. I'm not going to give it an estimated time because i think its important that people take it at their own rate, particularly when this is your first time. All the normal precautions and conditions apply to this article, it’s your life so take all the necessary safety measures, as my old man always tells me: “Measure twice, cut once” Penetrate The very first thing I do before working on an area of my car is to soak it with penetrate the night before, lay down some newspaper and go to town with that stuff. The cheaper stuff will work much the same as the more expensive stuff, provided you let it sit over night. Every nut and bolt I mention in this article should be sprayed! Jacking Firstly back off the wheel nuts. Make sure you have chocks at the wheels. Jack the rear of the car up from your preferred location (the diff for me). I must also point out that I had already jacked the front of the car and put it on stands as I took off the front subframe. Refer to figure. Jacking and stands I jacked the car high enough so that I could roll the rear sub out with the wheels on for easy transport, so the car needed to be high enough for the wheels to clear the petrol tank. Support the frame as shown in the pics with a 2x4 on each stand to distribute the load better. My sills were in very good condition so I had no fear of using them, however if you do have any concerns, maybe find an alternative method as shown in many other threads (maybe someone could reply with those links?) Exhaust The exhaust is the first part to be removed, but isn’t necessary on some cars (you’ll work it out). I entirely removed the exhaust as I am restoring the car (but you could get away with removing just the muffler), this is pretty self explanatory, just find those U bolts, unscrew them, and pull. Don’t forget to penetrate these parts beforehand. There might be some other rubber parts that need removal before the muffler will slip away. Driveshaft Removing the driveshaft (DS) where it connects to the diff is easier without the exhaust attached. There are 4 bolts that need to be removed, make sure you use a spanner or socket on each side (might be a bit tough as they are subject to large torsional loads and have probably never been touched – use penetrate). Once the shaft is loose try and tie it up put of the way. I don’t think that you need to remove the DS centre bearing to remove the entire DS to drop the subframe. Bits and pieces Check your stands are nice and sturdy (as they should of already been). Make sure the jack is under a flat part of the diff (where some numbers are printed seems like a good spot). flat spot of diff and diff bolts at top of pic Remove the road wheels and disconnect the brake hard lines, so yes you need to drain the brake fluid, or try to put plastic wrap over the reservoir and then place the lid back on. Although, this never works as well as removing the brake fluid altogether. Removing the hard brake lines You need to detach the handbrake cable somewhere. Either at the handbrake itself, or from the brake shoes which involves pulling apart the rear brakes. I simply removed the cables from the handbrake lever – both methods are probably explained in any manual. Don’t forget to pull out the end plugs if you remove the cables via the handle as seen in figure (they are tough to pull out – be patient). removing bolts to release handbrake cables (dont forget to remove the lever before pulling the cables through) annoying end plugs Disconnect the shocks by unscrewing them from the where they connect to the trailing arms. Subframe Loosen the following nuts: the nuts attaching the diff to the diff bracket. The nuts that hold the metal arms to the body and the nuts that hold the subframe to the body. Refer to the pics. metal arms subframe bolts Make sure the jack is taking load all the while so it easier to loosen the nuts. Now stand back and double check everything. Remove the metal arms and the subframe nuts completely. Most people have said that you need to whack the bolts up through the car to remove the sub entirely, but I wasn’t able to as they were stuck, but I had enough clearance to leave them in place. So if you are able to remove the long bolts do so, it makes things a bit easier later, to do so leave the nut at the end of the bolt to prevent damage to the bolt when hitting it with a BFH. Now completely remove the diff bolts slowly to ensure the jack is taking the load. From here it is simple, slowly let down the jack, but at small increments stop and check things are going smoothly. If you weren’t able to remove the sub bolts, lower the jack in small increments and pull on the subframe mounts as they will be stuck on the bolts. While doing so spray some penetrate into the mount area and be patient. nearly lost it all good

There has been progress but i'll update properly when i have time, this here is some creativity due to my lack of planning ahead. I degreased the car before removing the engine and sub to realise that once the engine was removed there was still a lot of dirt/grease, and with no sub it made for hard moving. So i came up with this, an indoor car wash. Worked a treat! dont worry about the electricity... there is a lot more water in there than you think, so much so that i couldn't lift the plastic.

yeah thats what i thought. cheers

Has anyone used CSI calipers to upgrade their brakes, I've heard it can be done but can't find anything on here about it. Yes i have access to some csi calipers which is why im asking. cheers Will

Carn the caters, and i hope to god that i don't have to use that lame line of "at least we made it to the final" at the end of September.

Just wondering where you got you sway bar link kit from, i found some at jaymic but their pretty expensive. Nice job by the way, i'm just about at the same point. cheers Will

Not sure which part your referring to.