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felix_666

Solex
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Everything posted by felix_666

  1. probably the most frustrating job I've ever done so I'm going to stick with the new feeling and wait till they completely seize up. Replacing the whole shafts isn't too hard. thanks again.
  2. ok i think i get it, but the stiffer ones are difficult to rotate around, they sort of seem stuck then they snap to the direction your moving them, and your saying this is better than the loose ones. Neither have any play, just some travel of the cage to slid in the housing of the cv axially, for when the wheel goes up and down. thanks for the help.
  3. Holy smoke, nice to see a few replies. Point 1: I spoke to the Por-15 people and they said sandblastered surfaces are great because it gives the material a tooth finish so the paint is able to stick to it well Point 2: Because it was sandblatered i was told i wouldn't need metal prep, just clean the surface. Point 3: I painted the fisrt coat on and sprayed the next two. Point 4: I was working in humid conditions of about 20-30 degrees Celsius. Question: I don't think i have the effort to paint everything again as it was such a big job, will the stuff last over time or should i go over it with something else, and i f so what??
  4. I have recently reco'ed a set of CV's from my project car, they were stiff and difficult to rotate before and after the job, i haven't been able to strap them on to the car and heat the grease up so it can spread around, but still their considerably stiff. Then pulled the half shafts from the donor car and they are nice and loose and freely swivel/rortate. Pulled both apart to compare them and they look much the same in terms of wear. Which should they be, stiff or loose??? thanks.
  5. I have used Por-15 on everything but the car, i have followed the instructions down to a T but every time i go near an object to work on (like the rear brake plates) the stuff scratches off pretty easy. I used 3 coats as instructed and everything had been sandblastered and cleaned prior. What else is better, i just don't want the stuff coming off becasue the metal is bare underneath and will obviously rust pretty easy, and i can't for ever be touching stuff up. What was on there originally?? I figure two pack epoxy should be pretty tough?? cheers
  6. Nice work Andrew, this has given me a nice little kick up the backside to get my car moving. What sort of music does the 2.5" exhaust play, i know you've got custom headers so that'll make things a little different but i'm looking at getting one made up???
  7. thanks for the help everyone. I figured i would get the disc part machined up, and i can roughly gather the diameter of the original one, but not sure about the thickness, could some one be kind enough to measure that sucker. In terms of the hub encasing, i'm a bit of a perfectionist so i think i'll have to try and find one or get one made up, again i need dimensions for this to be made up, i have a 35cm wheel if someone would be willing to measure that up it would be great. And how does the plastic case attach to the wheel?? Delia: So this carbon pin must have sheared off on mine and im assuming you can tap the rest out? thanks again everyone.
  8. Below is a picture of my wheel, it has a hub but no surrounding plastic or circular black disc that sits between the bolts and silver arms. I haven't seen a proper one of these so I'm not sure of the order of things. Inside the hub there is a horn wire leading to the bottom of the hub, but then it's flat on the other side of the hub, is this right, if so how does it work? Could someone please post a picture of the item I'm missing. Also the horn is sticky, it half jams every time its pressed, whats the go? I opened it up and it all seem well but again i don't know whats meant to be in there apart from a spring. cheers part im missing
  9. Did some more painting today, apart from the car the fuel tank is left. pile of stuff pile of sand blastered stuff painted stuff
  10. in regards to the tires - sorry i should learn to use those small pictures with faces on them, i was being a little sarcastic, obviously i need to improve my screen emotions. Engine isn't too bigger job you just need people and space, last time i did it with a mate in my car wide garage, a little tedious.
  11. nah you don't but mines a full resto which is why i have done it the way i have. I'm actually about to pull just the diff from another car of mine and i know it will probably take just as long and be probably more of a pain. discount tailshaft Undo half shafts Unscrew sub to diff bolts undo diff carrier bolts lower with a jack seems simple but it will take a while, make sure you soak ALL bolts/nuts the night before with penetrate to make life easier. should of seen the car trying to get over the sheet metal in between the legs of the hoist, in reverse on an oily floor with bald tires and smoke everywhere, the guys at the work shop thought it was most funny. They actually have wires poking out everywhere, probably not road worthy...
  12. some other pics i forgot about nearly lost it thats better sweeto
  13. finished with the subs, now i have got another pile of stuff to do, struts, control arms, stabilisers, brake plates, diff hanger, half shafts etc
  14. i know you have to use new head bolts to obtain the correct torque as their TTY, their so cheap to replace, considering what they do. I wouldn't think twice about replacing these, especially if i'd just re-built my engine.
  15. yeah i've got all new half shaft and transmission bolts, so i think i might be sorted unless anyone knows any others.
  16. yeah i know all the bolts should be fine, but i assumed there must be some that need replacing once they've been loosened, to gain the right torque value again, or is this simply a spare parts joke.
  17. I'm sure this has been covered, but I'm having trouble finding it. If people contribute to this then maybe it could be moved to the Articles section. I'm not able to replace much because of the silly BMW thread style, so I'll be replacing what i have to. I know the half shaft bolts/nuts need to be replaced. What else??
  18. Its a good thing they make UK (RHD) versions, good to know someones watching what I'm doing. Could of used you tom in the past to make sure that i don't double up, or triple up on parts as i discovered today. Any chance you know where i can get locally available sway bar bushings?? I forgot to double the order and need them this week if possible.
  19. I'm thinking about getting one of these S & P carpet kits with a set of black mats. I wanted all black interior, but i think it will be too much and looks a tad "cheap" if you refer to the Verona on this same page under the classic section, black seats, black dash, black side panels and black mats should be enough. Any one bought one of these kits? They seem to look the goods. http://www.only02.com/Grey-Carpet-Kit_p_4-11.html
  20. Off to the sandblasters today, and then to pick up some paint. Nice and clean painted in POR-15
  21. yep i used about 10kg of dry ice, but it wasn't that easy, i must of left it for 30 min and i still needed to use a hammer and chisel.
  22. did a bit of work today: with summer coming i thought i'd invest in some air con wool is a good insulator so that should keep the cold air in the car worked ok, not great hand cleaned the interior, took lots of dirty water and time. finally worked out how to get this thing out. thinking about getting this colour as my interior, i would like the white/gray bits to be fewer, but something along these lines would be good, black with a hint of something.
  23. yep sorted it out, couple of tricks and out it came with no problems or rips.
  24. yeah tried that with no luck, unfortunately there had been very few nuts that have wanted to come off due to all the dust this car has seen, i'll just keep spraying it and twisting.
  25. Oh, and the boot lock seems to be stuck, how does the actual lock part come out, I'm assuming its just the circular part???
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