Ray-2002tii

So that is what a Golf roundie looks like! I bet the battery is hidded in her trunk. Sponge Bob, Big Ass!

I hope you find it! That would be a real nice car to own again after all these years. Now if I could only find my '65 Mustang 2+2 GT.

I don't think your fuel pump is your issue. They all run a little noisy, some more than others. The fact that your car runs good when warm leads me to believe you have some other problem. The car would run bad or not at all if the fuel pump wasn't working properly. I would guess either you have mixture problems at start, like the warm-up regulator adjusted wrong, or some other cold running adjustment. I know this is vague, but I'd start with mixture.

First I wouldn't use a Diegard. There is nothing special about them and they never have seemed to last me as long as the warranty. Then when you go to replace it and they pro-rate the cost, it seems that you have to buy from Sears again and at a higher cost. I have used Interstate batteries for years with excellent results. I have them in all my cars and even my RV. The pair of deep cycle I have in my travel trailer were warrantied for 24 months and lasted 7 years! And the trailer sits with no charger attached for 9 months of the year. OK, enough soap boxing. For hold down in my tii, I don't use anything.Bewteen the tight fit from the nose panel to the master cylinder, and the fender to the little nitche it fits in and the ground strp is a close fit, my battery hasn't ever moved. Been like this for probibly 25 years.

Check Ebay, there have been the correct hold downs on there several times lately. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-1600-2002-2002tii-Battery-Hold-Down-NEW_W0QQitemZ270117954504QQihZ017QQcategoryZ6763QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

My 1973 tii had a window sticker of $5500, which included tinted glass, Michelin XAS tires, and transportation charges, POE, Los Angeles. Out the door it ran me just over $5900, which by the way was July 1973, just after the deflation of the german mark. The car was supposed to cost about $400 less when I put down a deposit to get on the waiting list for a tii. The german mark rose and so did the MSRP. Color was another matter for a tii. When you gave the dealer your $500 deposit to get on the waiting list you also told him 2 or 3 colors you might like. At the time, it was about 16 weeks to get a tii, regular 2002s were in stock in a variety of colors. When your name came to the top of the list at the port, they would call the dealer and tell him what color was available. If you didn't like the choice, you passed and stayed on the top of the list and waited for the next ship of BMWs, typically in about 3 weeks. I wanted ultimately a Polaris or Baikal sunroof car, with Malaga being my 3rd choice. That combination ultimately cost me $400 because when they called the first time, the cars had no sunroofs so I waited for the next shipment. That's exactly when the deflation of the mark hit. When the next shipment came in, I grabbed the Malaga non-sunroof car because the mark was suppose to go up again. The dealer then offered me air conditioning for the same cost as the sunroof, $135.00. BTW, Dominic has a 1974 tii in Agave, a respray but original.

Bumpity, bump, bump!

Isettas are different. They have a Roundel! And they have BMW logos on their hubcaps. Which reminds me of a story that hapened a couple weeks ago. A sub-contractor I use was doing some installing and we were talking cars. I mentioned I owned a couple a BMWs and the first thing out of his mouth was, "Really? Cool, I own a Mini!" Doesn't have a clue!!

Paul, I know what you are saying but have to comment on two points. First, Gordon is looking to finish aluminum wheels, so no rust will ever creep under the coating, Second, I'm with you that paint does a very original looking job. Originally all alloy wheels were painted, usually some shade of silver then a clear coat over the top. I did a set of 80 spoke wires on my TR250 about ten years ago and they looked fantastic. The problem today is paint pretty much is crap compared top what we had just 10 years ago. The EPA keeps protectiong us from ourselves lowering the VOCs, removing the lead, and generally making paint more vulnerable to the elements. Ever notice how easily paint on new cars chips compared to older cars? Brake dust attacks newly painted wheel now more than in the past so that's why I would pick powdercaoting today. For suspension parts, body work, etc, I still like paint for the original appearance.

Exactly!

This last weekend at Bimmerfest 2007, I was walking around with one of my buddies I will not name (Andy Wong). There were over 1000 BMW's there from classic 2002's to the latest most radical M cars with all the pricey mods! I like them all! But here lies my dilema. I was accused of being a Miin-hater!! A Mini biggot! Every time there is a BMW event, those Mini's show up. Just because BMW owns Mini Cooper does that mean they should join our events? When Aston Martins have a show, do Fords show up because they own Astin Martin??NOOOOOOOO!!! Do you think if the Mini owners have an event they would invite all the BMW's? Someone tell them they are NOT BMWs. Rant over, what do you think?

My '73 had the exact same symptoms a few years ago. The fix? Replace the turn relay (high under the dash, drivers side).

Gordon, if you want them to look great and last forever do it right and have them powder coated. Most good shops have a variety of silver colors available, so you can pick the one that is right for you. You can bring them in dirty and crusty and they do all the blasting and recoating. When you get them back they will look brand new. Specialized Powder Coatig in Huntington Beach does a nice job on wheels if you don't have one closer.

I 2nd the Eastwood high temp exaust paint. I've had it on my manifold for over 15 years and it looks like I just painted it. Bead blast your manifold and the great thing is you can spray the stuff or even brush it. Comes in a nice silver gray and looks stock and vintage.

20-120 ft lb, Harbor Frieght, on sale, $11.95. Made by the same company that makes other cheap shit, but it works fine.

Subject: Re: "L" is on again-more detailed info ben7402 wrote: Hey Gang- I put a post up about this saturday but it was REALLY vague. So on my '74tii the charging system light comes on at 3200-3500 rpms in the higher gears, 3rd and 4th. Light will stay on between 60-70 and then go out. Rarely do I see it at other speeds or in the lower gears, (1&2) irregardless of rpm. History, Alternator, battery and voltage regulator were replaced in January, the primary wiring harness was rewired by my local mechanic in early february. I checked the wiring at the battery all connections tight, ground strap looks a little freyed at the fender but okay otherwise. PLEASE HELP!!!! Thanks, Ben '74tii - malaga Check the belt tension. If it is loose it will slip at higher RPM's, esp when it gets warm. One other note, irregardless isn't a word. That's ike saying regardless regardless., FWIW. I thought I said check the belt tension! Irregardless, it's fixed!

[edit] Prescriptive vs. descriptive The approach taken by lexicographers when documenting a word's uses and limitations can be prescriptive or descriptive. The method used with irregardless is overwhelmingly prescriptive. Much of the criticism comes from the illogical double negative pairing of the prefix (ir-) and suffix (-less), and the argument that irregardless is not, or should not be, a word at all because it lacks the antecedents of a "bona fide nonstandard word." A counterexample is provided in ain't, which has an "ancient genealogy," at which scholars would not dare level such criticisms.[1] The descriptive approach to "irregardless" is to note that it is considered non-standard by educated people. I guess that is where the group gets divided. JK!

Check the belt tension. If it is loose it will slip at higher RPM's, esp when it gets warm. One other note, irregardless isn't a word. That's ike saying regardless regardless., FWIW.

Does it help if you press the accellerator a little when it's cranking? I know with fuel injection you are not suppose to apply any accellerator when cranking, but my tii starts very quick with a little gas, but take quite a few cranks if I just turn the key. And BTW, my car has a recent tune from Jack Fahuna, so I know everything is in order. It seems like it has always been the nature of the beast for 34 years.

What?? Did you miss some words??

Ray???

Maybe the warm-up regulator on the K-fish pump. They don't last forever and when they are faulty, they can cause exactly what you are describing. Pricy if you need a replacement, like $400 from MT.

I rebuilt my entire front suspension this weekend and just returned from the alignment shop....UNBELIEVABLE! I thought my car drove well but I had a small knock when turning slow, like parking. Front end was untouched for 34 years so I figured do it right. I purchased new front control arms, tie rods, ball joints, bushings, all OEM, (thanks to Kenny at Sterling BMW). I also bought urethane tie rod end links and mounting bushing, (thanks to Ireland Engineering). I was pretty surprised it only took about 6 hours Saturday to do the entire job. I'm sure having the right tools helped like a ball joint tool. Anyway, the alignment shop said my guesstimate on toe-in was only 1/16th off. They also adjusted the steering box while it was in the shop. The car drive like new with no wander, steering slop or noise. It corners like it's on rails again! I highly reccomend thsi to anyone with original parts still on your car. One question? I hear a small knock or looseness somewhere in the rear suspension when I go over railroad tracks or big dips in intersections. Are there rear suspension parts I should also rebuild? Bushings, bearings, spring perches? Thanks in advance if you have done this.

I concur, BLUNT is the man. Great guy with fast service and good prices. Let's support our fellow FAQ'ers.

If you are in the UCLA area, the best shop around is Jack Fahuna at Pro BMW in Van Nuys. He's about 15 minutes from you and does fantastric work and tune-ups. He works by appointment and gets your car right in and out, no sitting around. I drive all the way from Orange County for him to tune my car, well worth the drive. http://www.probimmer.com/