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visionaut

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by visionaut

  1. Physically they flip. That was the Q, no? I will concur that the underside is definitely more ratty than the upper — possibly finish, possibly much less attention/care over time. (Can you only anodize half of it? IDTS.) But if your uppers are scratched to hell, and you have a smooth bottom—since it is symmetrical, flip it and polish away… <don't go there >
  2. Likely. About 1/2” diameter, 1” forward of the bumper rear edge and 3” inboard of the mounting strut centerline. I doubt it’s OE..
  3. AFAIK they’re both flippable. My 76er front has two holes underside that would show flipped, but I don’t know if they’re factory. The rears look fully symmetrical in 2 dimensions..
  4. What? Never heard of this - but I don’t follow ‘sales’ ever... Who’d spend that much on an 02? I don’t care if it was 1 of 1. I love these cars but that’s f’n nuts..
  5. Forgot to hit ‘Submit Reply’ back in 2016 Steve? 🫠
  6. Yup. This came up in a recent topic. Looking at the blue book dizzy advance values listed as for the 2002Ti. There’s 3 different ‘curves’ cited, and the really aggressive one was actually for an 1800Ti dizzy (never used on 2002Ti), the 129 026). 20 deg advance at idle & 37 deg all-in at 2700 is kinda wild… ( pre-emissions of course). The 129 033 had that still aggressive 10 deg idle with 29 all-in at 2500rpm. When mimicking the Ti with DCOEs, perhaps try starting with the 129 033 curve, especially with today’s fuels. That 129 026 advance is “far out, man”… Tom
  7. That block VIN matches a BMW 320i, USA manual produced Oct 1977…
  8. Not a lot of options. Ideally you’d want same tire diameter for a spare. But you’d want a narrow tire width to fit the spare in the tire well. The only 14” that’s close in diameter (~6mm) that’s narrower might be a 175/65-14 but I suspect it’s width might still be too much for the well height. A 165/70-14 or even better a 155/75-14 would be ideal as a spare for 195/60-14s but they don’t seem make those sizes now.
  9. Engines - cylinder layouts .mov That inline 4….
  10. Yup Tommy. They were ‘customizing’ imported BMW NKs at the end… The NK site had a long thread on ‘em (when a FN 2000ti came up for sale back in 2011). https://www.02forum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=3977
  11. FWIW 0 231 115 072 (a JFUR4 type) The 115 072 was used in the 1600, 1600-2, 1600, 1600 Touring, 1602, and 1800 possible shaft donors: 115 072 was the first replacement for the 0 231 115 048 (JFUR4) used in the 1600, 1600-2, 1600, 1602, and 1800 Other JFUR4 or similar vintage JFR4/JFUD4 dizzys: 115 045, 129 026, 129 033, 180 004, 115 071, 115 081
  12. Yep, you guys are spot on. It’s cited as 25Nm ( 18.1 ft-lb) for Housing bolts for the 235/5... That 8x130 bolt is WIDELY used across many Bimmers and lots of usages (steering pumps, alternator mounts beside transmission housings), so still available everywhere.
  13. Mark - IIRC, the 235/5 specs incl torques are in the BMW Repair Manual, Gearbox section… https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles/technical-articles/history-and-reference/bmw-2002-service-repair-manual-r247/ Tom
  14. It’s a Frazier-Nash BMW? “UK agents for BMW arranged coachwork and made modifications, including badging the cars "Frazer Nash BMW".
  15. Fuyao makes great glass, they’re a BMW OE supplier, and have US centers — no need to hide or remove the bug Late Pilkington FW227s carry DOT177, meaning they were manufactured by L-N Safety Glass SA de CV in Mexicali, another NSG subsidiary. For authenticity for the white glove types you’d want original SIGLA and VEGLA glass bugs on your 02…
  16. Based on the ISO numbers, I think that’s a wiper relay, not the flasher relay? SoM beat me to it…
  17. Thanks. $30 for SS ain’t bad ( I could easily go SS vs Al). Didn’t know they also offered finishes too. I only need a single bracket made… So I’ll convert my ‘to-scale sketch’ into a proper 3D model to upload! Tom
  18. The Austin Seven was lic by Eisenach which was purchased by BMW to create the BMW Dixi. ?
  19. My throttle linkage only gets hot whenever I’m out “getting coffee”…
  20. If yours ain’t working , take a very close look at the bottom of your wiper arms. (and yes, you do have to take them off to examine the ‘retention’ geometry between the spring hook, and where & how it hooks and the arm pivot movement). Your wiper arm could be old and worn, yes, but it could also just need a simple spring retention adjustment, or it’s sliding parts lubed… When it works, and it stays upright, there’s a noticeable physical ’detent/click’ point about 1” from the full swing up. The detent is actually even more noticeable when you start to move the arm back to the window, and you see/feel the point the strong spring pull happens. The lower spring hook rotates in its lower catch (while the upper spring hook moves in/out in the arm ) and the bottom of the arm ‘surround’ actually slightly pivots a degree or two in relation to it’s innards as it rotates on the lower pin at the top to engage the hold. When lowering, it’s the opposite rotate action the moment that the spring begins to pull down. A dirty/unsmooth interface between those two outer parts of the lower arm attachment surround or a binding pin might also prevent the necessary movement… yeah, I had to check it 😋
  21. Agree. Also advise having any heavy-load stereo/amps separately wired w/ fusible link to battery +/-
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