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rho

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Everything posted by rho

  1. rho
    White could also be Brake fluid but that is rare.
  2. rho
    Perfect! thanks for the tips. I'll get the expander and use the feeler gauge technique to protect the piston. Thanks again.
  3. rho
    What's the best way to remove piston rings? and to install them? I have an old piston and just for grins I tried to remove the old rings and scratched the crap out of the piston... when I tried to install the old ring back and scratched the piston even more!!! So whats the proper way?
  4. rho
    Wooden dowels will work to line the head up to the block... but as everyone mentioned I would feel uneasy not having those 2 sleaves on the block as I reinstall a head.
  5. rho
    Just realized how old your original post was.... sorry for being late
  6. rho
    I have a CR tranny and LSD diff.. can't remember the ratio off hand though. The previous owner had a custom driveshaft made to fit. You can come over and measure what you need to if you wish. Robert Alameda
  7. rho
    I mounted mine behind the passenger head light.
  8. rho
    I was thinking of getting one for my CR 5 speed... 1st gear is far left and down... if people didn't know.
  9. rho
    I use it when I have real time questions as well. Merlin is a great resource and is coincidentaly on everytime I check in.... I'm putting another motor together so I may be on it again soon... it's really cyclical for me. Robert
  10. rho
    My gauge says 13.75 at speed. Is this normal or should I check my used upgraded 5 series junkyard alternator if the brushes are suspect.
  11. rho
    What Junkyards have E30 M3s????? I have yet to see one with my own eyes!
  12. rho
    Schatz
  13. rho
    What they said already. Are you going to swap the engine+tranny together? Or take the engine out by itself? I've done this 3 times in the last 6 months and just took the engine out by itself. When installing it I had to wrap a ratcheting strap around the motor and pull it towards the tranny close enough to where I could fit the tranny bolts thru to start threading them. Other than that the swap is doable for one person.
  14. rho
    I put the motor in the car already. I am in the process of building another one (on the engine stand now). When I get to that point again I'll measure and take pictures and repost. So you are saying when the #1 piston is at the absolute highest point, the mark on the crank pully should be lined up perfectly with the pointer on the block.
  15. rho
    This quesiton is in regards to installing a head. If I turn the crank pulley and watch the #1 piston move up as soon as it hits it's peak I looked at the crank pully and it is NOT exactly lined up with the mark (it's close) but not on it. Should I reference the position of the piston or that mark? Does the timing mark take into account some lag time I'm not aware of?
  16. rho
    There is a brass baffle plate in the T-stat. Drilling a hole will help prevent air bubbles from accumulating underneath the baffle plate. (Air bubbles and coolant flow = bad)
  17. rho
    Yes they work well but are Loud if you don't mount them correctly. Another con, reliability (they do fail) probably more so than mechanical... and also for safety... if not wired correctly or if you don't include an emergency cut off valve or switch.. the pump could remain on after an accident, not good. I have switched back to mechanical but it's your call, it's always a fun project and you can always reverse it pretty quick.
  18. rho
    The voltage regulator is the yellow taped aluminum box. I replace my alternator with a older 5 series which did not need the external regulator... I'm not 100% sure about the 320 but most likely it's internal and you don't need the external one... Someone will chime in soon I hope.
  19. rho
    you gonna tell us what you did? someone else may have the same problem and might like to know too The car's temp would climb when I drove faster on the freeway and uphills. The temp would only come down a bit but never to normal. Usually about 2-3 needle thicknesses from the RED. I thought the gauge could be faulty but the 220 degrees shown from my Infra red Temp gun showed that the gauge was correct and Curt pointed that out as well. Curt suggested that the old radiator could be the problem (years of corrosion and or plugged up) and could not dissapate the heat anymore. I had an extra used 320 radiator that I replaced it with and also had a new T-stat that I drilled a 1mm hole in the baffle. After replacing both items the car might hit 3 O'Clock during spirited runs and is steady @3:30 to 4 O'clock now.
  20. rho
    I had some cooling issues where my engine temp would climb at speed and during uphill ascents... Called Curt to pick his brain and he could not have been a nicer individual. He could have pushed or tried to sell me his custom radiators but he did the exact opposite... After using his advice my car runs well under the 3:00 O'clock mark and @3 on the most demanding part of my test drive. Now I have a cool running 02... just in time for the 100+ days here in CA. Robert
  21. rho
    Ok here are the readings I had when I got home... Temp needle 1 to 2 needle thicknesses from the red. Radiator top hose to sending unit housing = 180 Radiator Cap = 111 Bottom of Radiator Left = 141 Bottom of Radiator Right = 150 Head = 200 Intake manifold = 153 Header = 460 T-Stat = 156 Hose up from T-stat = 200 Hose below T-stat = 161 Hose from Intake manifold to firewall = 205 Temp Sender housing = 225 Hose to carb from sender housing = 201 Could it be a bad radiator knowing that the temps taken were 111, 141 and 150?
  22. rho
    Were you referring to the accuracy of the Temp gun? I assume so since I"m almost certain the car's temp gauge is whacky.
  23. rho
    What temps should I expect from these parts of the engine while using a IR temp gun. Radiator Cap Coolant temp Sender Housing T-Stat T-Stat Top Hose T-Stat Bottom Hose Reason being, My temp gauge jumps about 1/2 inch when I turn my headlights on (I know, bad ground or connection) and in addition, the needle creeps up close to the RED on the freeway at speed. While the needle was reading close to the RED the Radiator cap showed 200F and the Sending unit housing (connected to the head) was 211F. Is the gauge correct or is my electrical system inaccurate? I'll have to confirm those numbers again (I wrote them down but I'm at work right now) Thanks
  24. rho
    I hear you... It is very unlikely anything is as advertised by ANY seller. If they say a head is good as far as they know... plan on it being warped or cracked. It's harder and harder to find good used parts for our cars... IMHO... my rant off
  25. rho
    I don't see any numbers yet... maybe looking at a used one this weekend and before I buy it want to make positive it is a Schrick and not a re-grind.
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