Mike87

Sounds like piston slap. It goes away after it warms up because the pistons expand in the bore. 

It has to do with the bore vs piston clearance.

probably need one of these

Tach Adapter

Bimmer Forums E21

probably a horn relay

I had Victory Machine in Campbell do the machine work on the last engine I built. They did a great job. They mostly cater to the muscle car crowd, but they also know small engines. They were recommended to me my BR Racing.

http://victoryautomotivemachine.com/

I too have K-Mac strut mounts. Am running 2 degrees negative with stock size springs (IE Stage 2). No issues in 5+ years.

Here is a color wiring diagram that may help.

2002 wiring diagram in color.pdf

I do not think that a '68 even had that belt line trim. It was probably added by a PO who put it at the wrong height and changed it (2 sets of holes).

If they are anything like the Weber ones those numbers refer to flow characteristics. Meaning that the 1.5 flows more than the 1.2. That is just a guess though.

Pull the head, remove the cam. Install the cam from the M10B16, reinstall the head and then install your distributor.

Here is some reading material on the subject.

http://korihandbook.federalmogul.com/en/section_41.htm

I have an all metal 320 radiator you can have but you have to pick it up in San Jose. It was originally used on a 320 automatic so it has the ports on the bottom for the oil cooler. Functional but if you were going to use it for a conversion I would have it rodded out.

Let me know,

Mike

Production (P) and Improved Touring (IT) are both SCCA classes and they are different. They have different rules/specs for the cars.

Get the rules. They have separate rules for each classification in SCCA. Other organizations may have them lumped together.

I ran SCCA IT in a 2002 for about 5 years back in the late 90's/early 2000's. 

Look at the racing series that you are wanting to get into. Get a copy of their rules and read/understand them. It may come out that there are things within the rules that you do not want to do. It also may change your direction.

Then go to school. Barber is good. There are others as well that are very good. Just be willing to learn.

Know that you will be opening your wallet very wide. Look for an already race ready car to save you a ton of time (and possibly some $$). But a lot will depend on the direction you want to go.

Go to races and talk to the people there who race and pick their brains. You will get a lot of info that way. Prep (knowledge) is key before diving in with both feet. You may find that there are some things about the series that you want to get into that you do not like. Asking questions will help you determine your path.

I have an old steering wheel from a 1980 320i. If that will work you can have it for shipping. It is in San Jose, CA.

If you cannot find a stud, you can always make one. Even if you find one that is too long, cut it to length and you are golden. Not finding a stud, use a bolt and cut the head off. There are many ways to solve this issue.

I would clean out the hole in the front cover well, maybe even run a tap in it. Use some loctite on the stud when installing so it will not come loose.

Once you remove it, either remove the nut or replace the stud (better solution) with a new one and a use a new nut either way. Do not rely on the stud with the stuck nut as being tight enough.

According to RealOEM it is a M6 x 16 for the E30. The E21 does not have a fuel rail.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1374-USA-10-1984-E30-BMW-318i&diagId=13_0254

Sounds like the voltage regulator went south. With the car running the alternator should be pumping out close to 14V.

Looks like someone removed the top portion of the fuel pump to prevent anyone from using it, then left it there to plug the hole in the head.

Name: Mike Kubani
Category: BMW '02s
Date Added: 2018-03-06
Submitter: Mike87

Mike Kubani

Since the M42/44 was created as a fuel injected engine from the beginning, finding an intake manifold for carbs might be hard to come by. (I could be wrong)  It sounds like it would be an interesting idea though.

1) vacuum hose to brake booster

2) plug

3) plug

4) vacuum advance on distributor

5) plug

If you are trying to start the engine with all those vacuum leaks it probably will not. If it does start it will run really poorly. Plug them in the correct way and it should start.

I used the original return line as the feed back in 1998 when I converted to EFI. No issues.