Mike87

I had a similar issue when I first put my engine in. It would run really hot, turned out that the 'new' thermostat was bad! Check that t-stat in some boiling water to make sure it is working properly.

You are looking at the race track as it was originally designed, as a race track. If you think of it as if there was a sheet of asphalt with cones set up on it, then you would see the AutoX track. That is what they were doing, using the available tarmac, not the actual race course. There may not have been a suitable lot to make the AutoX track.

Just my humble opinion,

Mike

Maybe I will bring my MCS to the next 02 drive on Quien Sabe. I think it will be a lot of fun, almost as much as driving the 02!

Mike

Email me, I think I have a couple of those things lying around collecting dust.

Mike

It means that 5th gear is 1:1 and the others are spaced closer together than the 320 overdrive version. It is the perfect tranny for track use.

I believe that the close ration 5-speed was only available as an option on some 02's, and they are rare.

Sounds like a close ratio 5-speed to me.

Your pads could be glazed. This will cause poor stopping power. Also, the type of pad you use has a big influence on how well the car brakes.

PITA = pain in the ass!

If you use the head with the ports in it, you will have to machine it (like John N said) and devise a way to mount the electronic injectors in the manifold.

It is your choice, but the head without the ports will be much easier to install than the one with the ports.

If you are using a manifold with injector ports, use the 76 head without the ports in the head, if you are using a cis manifold, use the 81. It is a PITA to modify the cis to electronic.

Unless your carb has been modified to have a different nozzle arrangement, the 32/36 does not have a sqirt in the secondary. The 38/38 on the other hand does have this feature.

The 121 has 44mm intake valves and the 121ti has 46mm intakes. That is the only difference, I think.

Sounds like your idle circuit in the carb is gunked up. Follow CD's recommendation and clean out the carb, replace all seals and o-rings.

You probably noticed that the studs in the rear are OK and the fronts are too short? If so, you can use rear studs in the front as well for a little more length. I did this with my stock hubs for many years and they work great and are cheap too.

Check the link for the one I am using. It is mounted on the front of the radiator and pushes air thru the radiator. Works quite well with a low temp sensor in the 320 radiator.

'>http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/highperformance_12_curved.html

Check the link for the one I am using. It is mounted on the front of the radiator and pushes air thru the radiator. Works quite well with a low temp sensor in the 320 radiator.

http://www.geconsumerproducts.com/pressroom/press_releases/lighting/consumer_lighting/nighthawk.htm[/url]

The Nighthawk is a new bulb from General Electric. Probably available in the US.

Toyo Proxes T1-S 195/55-15 at 30F, 28R

I run a 5" wheel too with 60-2 teeth on my HPV-1.

Mike (#87)