Mike87

I will take some more photos this afternoon and post them. Maybe I can get some more light in there and get some close up shots for you.

For some reason, the photos came out darker once transmitted to the web site. I can see things clearer when I look at the original photos.

The colored wires are for the A/F meter. The wrapped ones are the harness.

If you look above the ECU in the first picture, you can see the harness going through the firewall.

I would use Viton for sealing hydrocarbons in/out.

I mounted mine on standoffs in the glove box. Here is a pic.

The harness goes almost directly forward from the ECU. It is kind of hard to see but it is below the cruise control module. Keep the grommet from the existing harness that you are using an if you drill the hole the correct size it will seal.

Fill the gap with a piece of fuel hose. That is what I did about 10 years ago. It was easier than trying to find the correct grommets. And they are still working fine.

That carb looks dirty to me. Might try cleaning it, but that probably is not your problem. Check the float level as mentioned above. Could be the fuel is not shutting off with the needle and seat. check them too.

Glad you were able to get the ignition sorted! That is a big step.

It is possible that the module does not like the M10 coil, but I am not sure. I know that the E30 coil is different, but not sure what makes it different.

The shield should be ground.

I am. Have been since 1998. More than happy to let you take all the measurements you want.

Might it be this plate 16111114997?

#10 in the diagram

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2215-USA-09-1975-114-BMW-2002&diagId=16_0382

If so, it looks like it uses the same bolts that install the tank.

Like this...

But it is not speaker wires, it is door lock wires. Same principle.

I have the connector and cable that goes with it to the 7 pin connector. Email me your info and I will get it to you.

this might help you on your way...it has both types of modules on it. If you have access to an E30 Bentley manual it will have a lot of info on this particular ignition system in it.

I might have some of the connectors for the ignition module and distributor if you need them. I will have to dig through my stash and see. Not sure what type (Bosch or Siemens) of module they are for. Let me know if you are interested in me looking for them.

EDIT. I do have the Bosch type and part of the Siemens type of connectors.

You will need an ignition module to go with the plug in the side. There were two styles and two different distributors. If you can get the harness from the car that the engine came from, you will be ahead of the game. An ignition module from the same vehicle would be outstanding. From there you will have to wire the ignition module to power/ground/etc. 

If you have a thick hardened washer and make sure that the surface where it sits is flat it will distribute the load out and should work well.

I like Simeon's advice.

We are using that very thing here at work. Many of our parts are now printed in metal (mostly titanium), but some in aluminum. We also use a lot of plastic printed parts.

What TobyB said....complete stock exhaust.

Look here for an exploded view of the parts. Not sure what you need.

1975 auto trans speedo drive

speedo cable

Try using a small long Allen wrench (the L shaped ones). Not a lot of room up there.

From personal experience, measure your car for an accurate number.

For reference, my car measured at 59.25". It fit with the diff about in the middle of its adjustment. That is using a stock 8 bolt guibo. (4 bolt flanges).

If you cannot find one, you could always make one. Just take the existing one and weld in a short piece of hex stock.

check the link...

Oetiker clamps

behind the window crank handle

door exploded

15 hours ago, 71bmr02 said:

Thanks been busy.   checked accel pump discharge nozzle and it's getting a good squirt when i crack the throttle.  with the dizzy vacuum advance hooked up to the port on the bottom of the carb, it misses/ stumbles almost like not firing on all the plugs all the time (this of course as i increase rpm's) but I know all the plugs are firing, checked resistance on wiring, all within spec, plugs look really good so not an elec ignition problem.  As indicated earlier, the port at the bottom of the carb that should be ported vacuum is acting like manifold vacuum source.  primary throttle adjustment screw is set to give idle rpm of  approx 900 and idle adjusting screw is out about two turns . When i disconnect the hose from the bottom of carb to can on dizzy, it will run up to whatever rpm's i want and never miss, stumble whatever.  of course it's a little different on the street where, because the vac can is disconnected, it will ping lightly under hard throttle (93 octane w/alkybooze and octane booster)

Kind of wondering if you hooked the vacuum line to the vacuum port instead of the ported vacuum port. There are two ports. One is on the intake manifold which is engine vacuum and the other is on the carburator base which is ported. You need to use the ported one. If you are and you are seeing issues, maybe something in the carb has gone terribly wrong.

What carb? Might be the accelerator pump in the carb not working correctly.