Mike87

Here is one (1977 model)

Used on E21 (320i) models. Those holes are for mounting the aux air valve.

I went to an even smaller one from Ireland Engineering. What it does is slow down the water pump and alternator a little bit. The one thing I notice is that upon startup, the alternator is not charging unless I rev it a bit. Once it starts it is fine. No cooling issues either.

I would say that running that pulley that you found would be fine. You might have to use a smaller belt if there is not enough adjustment.

I have one. PM me if you want photos.

Mike

Check the two aluminum parts that bolt to the hood. They also act as end stops for the torsion bars. Over time the aluminum wears where the torsion stop is and they can break. Good news is you can swap them side to side and have basically 'new' ends. 

I did this about three years ago for the same reason.

There were two M10X1 and M12X1.5. Both were straight thread.

8 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

You might look at it from the back side as well, before making a decision.

 

 

(I'd try to find a cast iron manifold from another Tii instead).

Did not know that they have that weird kink. Not a good design.

I guess sticking with a stock tii manifold might be better.

You might look at the Ireland Engineering shorty header. Good alternative to a stock manifold and excellent flow. Also easy to fit (unlike some headers).

IE Shorty

I have one. I can take more photos if you like. No cam. I do have the rockers.

Comes with the valve cover and front cover.

I have a pair. Will these work for you?

PM sent

That is your oil pressure relief piston/spring from the oil pump.

I just measured it (kind of hard to do on the car) but it is close to 7.25" (185mm) overall.

Part number is 12311312137

E30 alternator mounting parts

 from RealOEM see part number 8. You will also need parts 9 and 10 to make it worth using.

I used that bracket, but it was with the later E30 alternator. It MIGHT work with the original alternator. Maybe have to use some spacers one way or the other. Try it and let everyone know.

3 hours ago, ray_ said:

I put a 99C (I think!) temp switch in the radiator drain plug location. Or maybe it was slightly lower than that.

 

The typical E21-E30 era 2 prong switches screw right in to the drain plug threads. If you have a drain plug (threads).

 

Did the same thing with a 91*C temp switch that controls a relay which controls the fan. Also put a toggle switch inside on the console that is a bypass in case the temp switch fails.

That is there to keep the new diaphragm from getting damaged during storage prior to installation. It now goes in your junk drawer for some hack later on.

Electric tach and yes it would be a dash module pull to get to the bulb and/or the tach connection. The dash module is pretty easy to remove. Remove two knurled nuts and remove the speedo cable and out it comes. Once it is loose and accessible, unplug the module and you have access to the wiring and the module.

Also check the black wire that is connected to the distributor (the tach feed wire).

Your master cylinder is on its way out. I would look at that before a booster. When a booster fails it just takes a lot of pressure (from your foot) to make the car stop. A sinking pedal is a classic sign of the internal seals on the master failing.

It will probably work. Most likely the reason for different part numbers is the timing curve is different. Physically it will fit and the engine should run.

Putting my vote on the timing curve. When it drops to idle from about 3K you are losing too much timing too fast. If you have another distributor, try swapping it in as a test.

Get yourself an open diff. They are plentiful and relatively inexpensive vs. a LSD. That way you can get it back on the road and enjoy it during the summer. While you are driving you can ponder the E questions and if you really need a LSD in the first place.

You might look into a BMWCCA auto cross event. Might be more competitive.

30mm deep 6 point

I had my distributor rebuilt by Advanced. Excellent job and about $200. What he did not have was a replacement vacuum pod. Just keep that in mind. The ground strap that is broken is staked to the points plate. To replace it the easiest way is to replace the entire points plate.

Here is a SW model of a 2002 body I did for a racecar class back in the early 2000's at Santa Clara University. It has a roll cage inside of it.

02 BODY.SLDPRT

02 body.tif

Maybe you can get some use out of it.