Mike87

1/4 drive sockets will do the trick

n/a

Probably best to get a new one. Pierce Manifolds has them. They will also have the other parts you are after. Don't forget to get new screws for the throttle plate.

Primary Throttle Shaft

1 hour ago, zambo said:

Thanks Mike - did you fabricate these?

No. Bought them long ago (minimum 25 years ago). Do not even know where. Probably could make a drawing if you need, but it will take a bit of time as I would have to remove one to get accurate dimensions.

16 hours ago, zambo said:

Mike - do you have a shot of those adaptors by chance?

Here you go.

I have the same seats in my '72. Have had them in there for 25+ years. Definitely aftermarket Recaro seats. You will need adapter brackets to make them fit the stock seat rails. My adapter brackets are Z shaped steel bars.

That is totally reweldable. Hard to tell if they are factory welds or not. My guess is that they were factory welds.

I had one in the 2002 for about 15 years before it quit. Guy at the battery place where I got a new one was impressed.

Check the bore depth in the end of the crankshaft. More than likely it is even deeper than the new bearing. You should have no issues.

Large pair of channel locks or a large pipe wrench.

As far as I know 2002 and E21 engines are both M10s and use the same filter. There is also a longer version but it might not fit if there are other things in the way.

I used the same filter on my '72 2002 and my sons '81 320i until he sold it.

I would recheck the timing as a small change in point gap will affect timing.

I have an early '72 and mine originally had a manual choke. It was opposite the ignition switch mounted in the metal housing. The hole is only about 10mm (3/8") in diameter. Drilling one would be easy. The cable feed in through the hole and then goes up through the firewall to the engine compartment. There is a nut on the backside of the knob end that holds it in place.

I no longer have need for a choke and now use that space for my cruise control switches.

Are they available from anywhere in the states? I am kind of leery of buying out of Eastern Europe.

Agree with Mike above. Center support bearing on the driveshaft. I had that exact same thing a few years ago. It only happened once or twice when initially taking off then went away. Bearing even seemed fine but it was dry. Ended up getting the driveshaft fully rebuilt. Took care of the problem. Also took me a long time (months) to find out what it was before fixing it.

Good luck,

Mike

If it dies instantly like you say, it is probably not fuel. I had an Allison (same as Crane) for a few years. I had the module die on me four times. Each time it was replaced by Allison. The last time I took it out and replaced it with points. No problems since.

Looks like it would go behind one of the transmission attachment bolts.

Congratulations Steve! Welcome to a whole new world of fun!!

Cortina?

I am in Hauser, ID. Just across the border in Idaho. Spokane is about 25 miles away. Unfortunately I do not have room to store a vehicle at this time.

Weld it.

Had a set on my son's 320i for years. Worked very well. No issues. Were still on the car when he sold it.

I am interested. My current Hellas have been sandblasted and one is broken due to a rock strike. These look like they will work better than the ones in my car now.

I am local too. I live in Hauser, ID.

You can contact me through the FAQ, PM or email at mike.87@juno.com. Or phone (below)

I work from home and am pretty flexible with my time.

One last thing. Are they $50 for the pair or $50 each?

Thanks,

Mike

208.262.8218

Not affiliated with the seller, just saw it when I was looking through local CL.

https://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/d/spokane-nardi-steering-wheel/7017506898.html

When I built my latest engine, I cranked it by hand similar to the video until oil came out the spray bar on top of the head. Also primed the chain tensioner prior to cranking the engine. It was a bit of work but worth it in my opinion.

If it were mine I would put the ballast back into the system. Then remove the choke wire and make a new source for the choke. Since your ignition was working fine before, leave it alone. Fix the issue where the issue is....at the choke.