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adamm

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Everything posted by adamm

  1. Thanks Z, I hadn't thought about putting the warm up in a bath - shall have to make sure to do it when the missus is out!! As for the diesel shops, I think there are a couple round here. Definitely worth investigating... cheers!
  2. I have a old/spare Kugelfischer pump which I am led to believe is no longer working correctly. My question is can the home mechanic diagnose what exactly is no longer functioning? For example I don't want to shell out to have the pump restored if it's only the warm up regulator which is no longer working. Also I'm not aware of any specialist Kugelfischer shops in the UK like you guys have in the US. Cheers!
  3. Looking between my Walloth & Nesch catalogue (taken from the Mobile Tradition drawings) and Real OEM, it looks like the rear anti roll bar (excuse my being a Brit!) is listed with the Front Axle Support diagram. Part number for the anti roll bar (16mm) itself seems to be 33553454000. HTH, adam
  4. Part number: 07500100002 Looks like it could be good stuff if the picture is to be believed!
  5. Hi Charley, looks really nice - can I ask you what sort of lacquer you used? I have some aluminium parts I'd like to polish up (obviously this would remove the original anodising) but I've always assumed lacquer wouldn't stick to a polished surface...? Cheers, adam
  6. Thanks chaps, that's a great help - I had forgotten they were so far inboard - I was remembering them up in the corners almost - that could have been costly! Leaving the screws in is a great idea - I shall definitely remember that for the future. Cheers!
  7. Hi there - I wonder if somebody could take a pic of the positioning of the sun visor mounting plates/screws please? I've put a new headliner in but it's taken me so long to reupholster the visors I've completely forgotten where to screw them and I don't want to mess up the liner poking holes looking for the right place. Cheers!
  8. Thanks for your help chaps. Curt, yes you are correct in your statement above. The one thing that I perhaps didn't make clear is that I installed a relay for the high beams, that is what I meant I could hear clicking/switching when I had the bonnet open but nothing was happening. I'll go through your steps Curt and see what I come up with. Many thanks.
  9. wonder if anybody can help me please to save me going to my garage several miles away to fetch my multimeter... just last night i was driving in the dark but mostly through towns, so on main beams only. i went to flash my lights to let a driver out of a side road and nothing happened - no high beam. obviously this led to me experimenting with them: "flasher" = nothing happening, high beam position = lights going on to side lights only! my car is a '73 with the high beam stalk on the left side - flick up to turn on high beams, pull towards to "flash" lights. when i opened the bonnet to have a look to see if i'd blown a fuse or there was a loose connection i couldn't see anything but i could hear my relay clicking when i operated the stalk control. should i be looking at the stalk/switch or the relay end? anybody had a similar experience? TIA
  10. John, great to hear you're on the road back to 'normality', hope it smoothes out from here on in. All the very best to you, adam
  11. Good comments, thanks guys. I'm torn between keeping it and moving it on. I've just finished restoring my car and I can't see me having another in the near future. Storage isn't a huge issue right now but there's no point holding on for holdings on sake. There are as many pros as cons I think! I shall offer it out at a good price (for me) and see what happens...
  12. I've got a very good condition boot lid (unheard of over here in the land of eternal rain!) that several people are interested in - thing is I don't know what would be a reasonable sum to ask for? New panels from BMW are 600 quid or thereabouts, obviously mine would need some work prior to use: stripping, priming etc. but then a new panel isn't a bolt on option either (unless you like that black primer look!) Anybody any ideas or shall I stick it on ebay and see what happens, alternatively is it worth saving for a rainy day, are good original panels like this becoming more rare?! Cheers
  13. I'm in the UK, would be happy to help if I could, drop me a line you'll find my email address on my website. adam
  14. Daj, sorry to hear to have to sell your car. I agree that you should perhaps work out what it owes you and take it from there - if you're going to ebay it I'm sure it'll fetch a good price as it's a lovely looking car.
  15. Don't know if Dinitrol is available in the US but it has quite a 'following' over here. I've used it on my car and it seems to be standing up very well and it was easy to apply... http://rust.co.uk/dinitrol-products.cfm
  16. Sounds like your cold start valve could be playing you up making your car run waaay rich - could still be delivering fuel after start up. My car did this - very similar symptoms to yours. Try unplugging it and see what happens - very simple place to start.
  17. Thanks all, most useful. It seems like it's the box playing me up as I've tried a known working csv off my csi and the same thing happens. I'm going to have a further play with it this weekend, I would like to have the system working rather than making up switches and playing around with it. Curt, I might take you up on your offer - have you ever had a box come from the UK?! Thanks again all. adam
  18. Thanks all, most useful. It seems like it's the box playing me up as I've tried a known working csv off my csi and the same thing happens. I'm going to have a further play with it this weekend, I would like to have the system working rather than making up switches and playing around with it. Curt, I might take you up on your offer - have you ever had a box come from the UK?! Thanks again all. adam
  19. My timer box seems to be permanently on ie the CSV continues to inject fuel after the car has started - no good. Is it fairly simple to wire a switch to manually operate the cold start valve from inside the car? I read ColinK's How-to in the FAQ construction zone where he says to bypass the red/white wire from the timer box - I don't quite follow this as I'm not too hot at electrics so would appreciate any help with how exactly to do it. Does he mean the red/white needs to be disconnected and the switch wired in it's place thus controlling the timer box and in turn the CSV? TIA.
  20. My timer box seems to be permanently on ie the CSV continues to inject fuel after the car has started - no good. Is it fairly simple to wire a switch to manually operate the cold start valve from inside the car? I read ColinK's How-to in the FAQ construction zone where he says to bypass the red/white wire from the timer box - I don't quite follow this as I'm not too hot at electrics so would appreciate any help with how exactly to do it. Does he mean the red/white needs to be disconnected and the switch wired in it's place thus controlling the timer box and in turn the CSV? TIA.
  21. I've just had one from Jaymic, it's a pattern part but it is of excellent quality.
  22. I've just had one from Jaymic, it's a pattern part but it is of excellent quality.
  23. Two things this thread has made me realise: 1) I want flares 2) I NEED an S14 Is it too late for me to write a letter to Santa?? Happy Christmas everybody!
  24. Thanks! The were originally clear/amber Italian signals, I got them from Rich Stern - the 02 register chairman over here - he dipped them in some sort of stripper to remove the orange part I think. They look good from a distance but have seen better days. I think the Italian signals are hard to come by now so would probably be best left with the orange portion intact to retain their worth... happy hunting!
  25. 3/4 years ago when I collected it (had been like this in a garage for about 8 years) and about 1 month ago (although nothing major's happened since then) still not quite finished...
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