Tii Clock Repair - Electrical circuit

[jhenard]

All,

I have a ’72 Keinzle Motometer electromechanical clock. The mechanicals work fine and were even oiled with clock oil. The electrical charge circuit is the problem. There is a small spark at contact closing but the circuit does not restart/recharge the mechanical sequence.

I repaired the fusible link first with regular solder and then replaced with low temp solder (70°C). The contacts were filed and alignment checked. The resistor is good (as well as a substitute put in – if anyone cares resistor is 48.8W on mine). There is continuity throughout the circuit and the test power supply has been tested for proper output. I have read over every article I could find on this (2002FAQ, VW, Porsche, clock forums, etc.) and can’t find any details on the electricals (so no kittens here).

My hypothesis is that the coil has shorted across several windings. Does this sound reasonable or is there something I have overlooked?

What is the value of the inductor? Anyone replaced one? Anyone have a good one laying around in a bad clock they will part with?

TIA,

--John

[02fanatic]

I have ruined more than one tii clock by spraying oil on it. My theory is when the oil gets on the coils and the clock is powered up it shorts out the electricals. Might just be bad luck, but it happened to me twice, so I never "spray" my clocks anymore.

I had a gorgeous vintage Keinzle Ti (not tii) clock with raised center on the face and silver bezel that I was going to install in Hugo during the restoration and I sprayed it & it shorted and stopped working...just made me sick!

I love these clocks but they are finicky.

Good Luck,

John

[MikeWooldridge]

If you can follow me here, I may have your solution.

With the clock in your hand, not hooked to any power, use your fingernail to advance the wheel nearest the spring loaded "kicker" with the contacts.

If after a few seconds, the "kicker" doesn't reload, the problem may be with the "spring" being out of place.

One I repaired had this problem. First, I just manually moved the "kicker" to allow run time. After I repositioned the spring, it worked.

Hope that is your problem.

[jhenard]

John and Mike,

Thanks for your thoughts. The clock oil was applied with a long tube (WD-40 style extension) that came on the oil vial. Hopefully the oil didn't migrate but who knows.

Mike - Do you mean the spring on the contacts lobe that turns the gear to the right of the lobe? That is working and holds its position on the gear. Am I understanding correctly? I can advance the lobe manually and it starts working again.

Thanks,

[MikeWooldridge]

Yes, you followed me. However, seems like that's not the problem if it can be re-set manually. At a loss now. You're getting power at the contacts, but will not kick the arm back. I think I'd do it manually quite a few times just to loosen it up. Did you blow the clock with compressed air? Maybe there's some debris keeping it from activating with power.

[Gordon]

By chance, did you check the FAQ page

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/83/32/

G-Man

[JohnP]

You didn't say, but did you hook it directly to a 12V source to test?

[MikeWooldridge]

By chance, did you check the FAQ page

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/83/32/

G-Man

Basically, this write-up covers only the "fix" of the blown fuse wire.

[jhenard]

Mike - thanks for the suggestion. I am going to reassmble and try in the car one last time before I take apart the circuit. John - I am using a power supply that puts out 13.8v but is limited to 3 amps so I will test in the car just in case the amperage draw is higher.

So does anyone know the coil rating (mH) or have specs on the circuit?

Anyone have a working coil they want to get rid of?

Thanks,