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Is retarding a recurved 02 dist the same direction as stock?


mtriple

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Well, you can put the car in 3rd and rock it forward. While moving forward, the motor will be turning the distributor shaft the correct direction.

Or you could have someone crank it (but not while it's in gear!).

;-)

EDIT: the actual answer to your question in the subject line is yes. A recurved dizzy has to turn the same direction as stock, so retarding the timing uses the same principle.

Cheers,

Ray

The same direction the rotor turns.

Cheers,

Ray

Hello Ray,

and how can I tell which direction the rotor turns? Bare with my noobness please :)

Hamada

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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Hamada,

Here's how I think about it. Look at your firing order (1-3-4-2). Then, look a the plug wires on your distributor. Viewing it from the top, 1 is at 9 o'clock, 3 is at 12 o'clock and so on.... So - that shows you the rotor is turning clockwise.

So - if you want to "advance" your spark, that is, you are having the plug fire at some time before the piston reaches TDC, then you turn the dizzy so that the rotor reaches the correct plug sooner - or counter-clockwise. Likewise, if you want to "retard" your spark - or have it spark later - turn it clockwise more.

I don't know what any of this has to do with "re-curved" - hopefully someone who is more than a hack like me will comment on that.

Hope that helps.

Ken

FAQ Member # 2616

"What do you mean NEXT project?"

-- My wife.

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Ahmed, be sure to mark its existing position with a sharpie so that you can find your way back!

And no, it makes no difference whether or not the dizzy has been recurved. The rotor turns the same direction relative to the crank.

John Capoccia

Sierra Madre, CA

 

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Guest Anonymous

You need to consider exactly what a "recurved" distributor means. It is a simple concept, but like adjusting a mechanical watch that runs fast or slow, the concept is very small and incremental. Recurving can mean slight changes to a vacuum pot, centrifugal advance weights, the plate upon which the weights ride or most likely the springs that control the rate and amount the weights move. Take a look at any conventional distributor or even a diagram of one, you will notice these springs. None of this equipment alters the direction of the distributor - so the concept of retarding (rotating -clockwise) or advancing (rotating counter-clockwise) is not affected.

The concept of ignition timing should not be that mysterious to you. If you mark the starting point with a sharpie pen, you should be able to experiment and discover just how unmysterious this is and then return everything to the original settings. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea if you got ahold of any tune-up primer or engine hot rodding book.

You could always consult "the" expert in your area, but you may then find your engine leaking oil on your driveway! lol

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Inquiring minds want to know as I have a 002 with broken springs.

I know of a couple of places that do it and mainly wanted to hear your experience.

Did you get a graph?

Thanks in advance.

Matt Rose from Roninawtowerks is the one that did the re curving. Here is the info link :http://www.roninautowerks.com/bmw_2002_recurved_distributor.html

I didn't ask for a graph.

Hamada

70Bristol02 E36M3 E34535im

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Guest Anonymous

How do you know you have broken springs? THey do fatigue and stretch but it is also possible that securing points have loosened or the springs have merely come off their perches.

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Hamada, thanks for the link.

How do you know you have broken springs? THey do fatigue and stretch but it is also possible that securing points have loosened or the springs have merely come off their perches.

Good point. I've had the distributor on a Sun machine and the advance was way off. The shop that did it told me the springs were broken. I'm not sure if this diagnosis was a "best guess" or if they had in fact examined it.

Thanks for the info.

Colin K.

Malaga '72 tii

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Guest Anonymous

There are many different types of Sun machines, although I am assuming you are speaking of a machine that is specifically designed to test the distributor - with the distributor removed from the engine. If that were the case, I am baffled why the operator would not have torn the distributor down right then and there. (IF you are describing an oscilloscope or just a dwell/tach then - disregard much of this post.)

It should be very simple to turn the rotor while grabbing the drive gear and feel the action of the advance mechanism. You can still perform this test even with the distributor installed. If the mechanism hangs or is limp (little or no resistance) you likely have a spring missing or broken. (there are other less likely possibilities) Likewise, if something is broken or even worn/loose you should be able to rattle it (unless it is clinging to caked grease).

Again, if the distributor was diagnosed as having a broken spring (or two), continuing to use it makes as much sense as having wiper blades that are too small and worn. Even if the distributor machine operator did not have replacement springs, salvaging the original springs might have been possible - and with access to the machine, tailoring the advance to your personal wishes (driving style) was a one hour or less exercise.

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The distributor is one of a couple of spares that i have on hand. These are not installed but part of my stash.

I had both tested: one was good and the other one I was told had the broken springs - to be fair to the shop i only asked them to diagnose. It was a Sun distributor tester and i had the graphs printed.

Thanks for the input, i'll check the resistance, play and check for rattling.

Colin K.

Malaga '72 tii

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