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Cant find the short in # 2 fuse


02hobiedave

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I have a 72-2002, 12 fuse with a problem. I have been trying to figure out the problem with my number two fuse it blows every time the parking lights are turned on. of course it leaves the right side parking lights dead front and rear (everything on the number 2 fuse curcuit). I have cleaned all gounds that I could find. Then taken all bulbs out and tested and cleaned bulbs and sockets.

I was told it was on the same curcuit as the flasher, dome light and the dash cluster. I have checked all and cleaned all with no positive results. but that is not backed up by my color wiring diagram. I can use some help on this one. Has anyone ran into this or know some way I could diagnose the problem. I forgot i also took out my fuse panel and checked underneath for mouse damage. I didn't find any, thank God! lots of wires but still no short. Also i have gone through my alotment of white fuses.

1972-2002 "polaris"

2000 M5 "Dieter"

2004 330i "ILKA"

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I had a similar experience once with the electrical connectors in the trunk under the floor boards and in the side wells having slipped the clear plastic cover off. The spade terminals resulted in a short. My dash lights went out too as a result.

Good luck and check for exposed wires.

post-2154-13667593782972_thumb.jpg

But what do I know

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You might try switching in different bulbs, I had one last month that shorted only when it had warmed up, the fuse would hold for a little while and then suddenly blow, insert a new fuse and things would be fine again for a little while.

Just a thought, maybe it will help.

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Guest Anonymous

is a very good thing to do but it won't solve a short problem. Also, checking your door switches won't help - they're on the ground side of the circuit so if they were shorted to ground, your dome light would be on constantly - it would not blow the fuse.

You need to find where there is a short to ground on the hot side of the #2 circuit. My advice -

-Buy or borrow a volt/ohm meter. A cheap $10.00 meter would do.

-REMOVE the #2 fuse.

-Set the meter to measure ohms (resistance).

-Connect one lead of the meter to the load side of the #2 fuse (the terminal closest to the outside of the fuse box)

-Connect the other meter lead to ground, the braided negative battery strap is a handy spot. (any clean bare metal will do - your car's entire engine and chassis should be at ground)

-The meter is probably reading ZERO or very near zero. There's the problem. The meter should, instead, be reading the resistance of the #2 circuit but somewhere, something is touching bare metal and causing the fuse to blow.

Somewhere there is a wire with it's insulation damaged or worn away, or a terminal touching chassis ground. This is a "short circuit" to ground.

Follow the wiring harness - look under your trunk boards, under your hood. Pay special attention to where wires pass through holes in the chassis or are clipped to the chassis.

Don't overlook the possibility that a previous owner's modification may be the source of your problem.

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I wonder with this information is it the light switch itself? This only happens when the parkings lights are turned on

my number two fuse it blows every time the parking lights are turned on.
is that possiable that the parking light switch could do that? I guess it could happen! everything else on the switch works.

1972-2002 "polaris"

2000 M5 "Dieter"

2004 330i "ILKA"

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It turns out to be the driving light switch had shorted out and was feeding the parking and turn signal on the same curcuit and shorting them out. Cleaned the switch with contact cleaner and the problem was solved. The continuity tester was a big help in sorting out the short in the light switch.

1972-2002 "polaris"

2000 M5 "Dieter"

2004 330i "ILKA"

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