Machine shop work on Carb....

[PeterVarga]

Still working on carb issues (Weber 32/36 DGAV). Threaded port

that receives idle solenoid (idle primary side) is wobbly. I'd like

to remove carb, bring to machine shop, have them install a threaded metal sleeve (like helicoil). Is this adviseable since this is a seat for

the idle jet. I was told Harrison & Bonini in SF might want to do this.

Looking into this next week.

[BillWilliams]

(nt)

[JohnC]

See my ad in the Parts For Sale forum if you're interested in a slightly used DGAV with a collection of jets...

[Guest Anonymous]

Can't you just take up the play with some benzene resistant tape or thread sealant? Even solder on the threads of the solenoid and re-grooving them might work. I would not be surprised if the right combination of "o" ring or washers might not resolve your problem.

g luck

[PeterVarga]

Enrique dear man....this is my beloved '02....NOT dad's old

chevy. One can't let wobbly threads come between man

and his cherished ride, now can we? Well taken advice aside,

if I want to install a threaded insert myself, can I do it with

a cordless drill? Or should I get a drill press and right angle

work vise and do it carefully and correctly. Plumbers tape

and o-rings wouldn't suit a repair of the Mona Lisa....hence

I'll try to do it correctly....or not at all.

but thanks for the encouragment.

[KFunk]

I understand your concern for quality Peter, but please don't discourage people from giving more 'affordable' solutions. Personally, I welcome all redneck engineering suggestions for my fine automobile.

Anyways, I dunno about your particular problem. I had all kinds of stuff heli-coiled together on my 32/36 DGV. No drilling needed or anything, works good and quick. I finally pitched that old carb in the basement and forgot about.

[Guest Anonymous]

The carb is cheap pot metal. It is soft and you could probably ream the hole without a drill and just your hand and the appropriate drill bit. But you wouldn't really need a special "heilcoil" insert any more than tapping a larger brass fitting which could receive the solenoid. It wasn't that long ago you could purchase Tomco? repair kits for most American carbs, and that was what those kits typically included.

But you missed the point of my post. I was suggesting you merely address the sloppiness by focusing on the solenoid's threads. First, how do you know you couldn't remedy the situation by getting a newer "sharper-threaded" solenoid? Besides, playing with your Dad's prized solenoid is a lot easier and less expensive to replace than the entire carb. I wasn't kidding when I mentioned solder. I have seen it done by a carb rebuild shop.

Nevertheless, I would expect there are many many easier alternatives to what YOU have in mind. How about taking some epoxy *j.b. weld or the like, fill in the threads and retap? Solder works as does alumaweld. Problem with heat is distorting the surrounding metal. In the good ol days, these are some of the ways these things were fixed.

After all is said and done, the tenor or your response leads me to conclude you will not be satisfied unless you pay a lot of money for your repair or you get a replacement carb.

Good luck.

[mikeo]

Is this what we're discussing?

[Guest Anonymous]

I think that's the focus of all this bandwith.

[winstontj]

Problem with tape is that you need metal to metal contact so the solenoid works - You could also use a crush washer (maybe) and JB weld the threads then re-tap them??? Heard JB Weld holds up well to fuel.

Honestly you can get a trashed 32/36 housing CHEAP, if not free and a decent used one for under $150 shipped to you - machine shop alone would be $100 just for them to touch the part and pay for shipping both ways right?

[Guest Anonymous]

FWIW, I have seen several different epoxy products other than j.b. for various applications including copper, aluminum and ferrous metals. Some of these claim to be electrical conductors.

Chemically resistant tape does not have to cover everything in sight. In any event, as you suggest, a crush washer will complete the circuit. I know of a "certain" father's Fiat that has been using something similar for years!

[PeterVarga]

Thanks guys. I think the dilemma was best stated by mr funk. it is

an opportunity to test and enjoy modern redneck solutions. I like that.

in fact if memory serves me, i repaired a solenoid that had a broken hot

tab with solder and an epoxy fill inside a slice of pvc pipe.....on an alfa in the late '70's.

But i could do that....but I want to make it more like a purring machine

that runs like a sewing machine on steroids.....not something that'll break

next time i hit a bump.

The best fix is of course a replacement carb body. just transfer the components. but,,,i found a drill press for $119 with a tilting table.

if i move the TV around and get rid of some stuff, i could put the drill

in the corner and do it myself. Thats the DIY spriit in the less cowboy

direction.....don't get me wrong....redneck mechanics is just fine...BUT!

(when i said to myself "I want a car that breaks down every mile and

the parts store never has the replacement part and you have to fix it with tape and glue and wire......I didn't think anybody was listening!)

[PeterVarga]

mikeo.....yes, that is the part, but the threaded boss that receives

it is widened (and internal threads partially damaged) and it only

has one or two threads holding it in. and backed out half turn it

wobbles.....thats why the other guys said fill it with JB weld and

retap it.