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Detailed S14 swap questions


madjurgen

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For those of you who have done the swap, you know that there is not very much room at all in front of the motor, especially if youre installing a thicker-than-stock radiator. Have any of you cut the fan clutch thread off of the water pump? I could really use that extra 3/4". I just want to make sure I'm not going to ruin my water pump by doing so.

Edit: Well I guess this answers my question.

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1990 325i

1976 2002

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For those of you who have done the swap, you know that there is not very much room at all in front of the motor, especially if youre installing a thicker-than-stock radiator. Have any of you cut the fan clutch thread off of the water pump? I could really use that extra 3/4". I just want to make sure I'm not going to ruin my water pump by doing so.

Edit: Well I guess this answers my question.

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Madjurgen,

By the looks of the water pump you have a M10 and not a s14 which I think has a slightly shorter shaft. Nonetheless, I have removed the threaded part at the front of the pump were the Fan would normally attach and i'm using an s14 pump. I've also removed all the front distributor part and gone for a Coil on Pug conversion with a cam sensor from a S38 M5 engine.

Divyesh

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  • 5 months later...

Hi 02'ers,

Can someone recommend a front swap bar kit that will clear the s14 lower sump pan as seen in the picture. I'd like to know what fellow s14 conversion guru's have used.

I currently have a 02 turbo sway bar but this looks like it might interfer with the modified sump pan.

Kind regards

Divyesh

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Jeff Ireland now makes what he calls a "drop bar", that is 1" lower than the standard sway bar. It clears my VAC pan, which looks similar to your pan. I'd give Jeff a call.

Ian

'76 M2

Hi Ian,

Many thanks, I'll give Jeff a call to investigate. Do you have a picture of your sway bar so I can get an idea on clearance with the VAC sump pan. I did consider the VAC pan but then decided to make my own by modifying the original lower sump pan with an extension and both vertical and horizontal baffles.

divyesh

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  • 3 weeks later...

Reviving s old thread. I still want to use the S14 aluminum pan. Therefore, how much from the pan should I cut? Should I go along the line, or just shaving the side? I also want to move back the motor by at least 1/2"...

t_s14_modification_805.jpg

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Brake harder. Go faster.

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Lee- what about clearing the center track rod at the bell housing? I want to lower my engine when I install the s14 but there is very little room. the nice thing is that if you could get it back a bit you could fit a nice electric puller instead of a push type fan.

Pete

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Reviving s old thread. I still want to use the S14 aluminum pan. Therefore, how much from the pan should I cut? Should I go along the line, or just shaving the side? I also want to move back the motor by at least 1/2"...

t_s14_modification_805.jpg

Lee,

I followed the photos that madjurgen posted a while ago. This allows you to clear the subframe. The photos should give you a good idea of the amount to remove. I also fab'ed up an extension and made my own internal baffles to provide extra oil capacity

divyesh

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Lowering the motor is secondary in my case. I would be happy to move it back. Even 1/2" would be great. BTW As I had an S14 lower oil pan in my basement, I decided to take a piece of cardboard and make a template to gauge the angle of the portruding section of the subframe and draw it onto my oil pan. I then proceeded to use an angle grinder with a cutting disc and made some noise...

10 minutes later, I removed the necessary portion of the oil pan so that there's no interference. Tomorrow, I will bring it to my usual aluminum welder and have them use their magic. I will probablu loose one quart oil capacity. Therefore, I will also make an extension on the passenger side. I will probably use 1/4" aluminum sheets. I was also thinking welding some fins to help cool the oil pans, even though room is limited.

Lee

Massivescript_specs.jpg

Brake harder. Go faster.

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Lowering the motor is secondary in my case. I would be happy to move it back. Even 1/2" would be great. BTW As I had an S14 lower oil pan in my basement, I decided to take a piece of cardboard and make a template to gauge the angle of the portruding section of the subframe and draw it onto my oil pan. I then proceeded to use an angle grinder with a cutting disc and made some noise...

10 minutes later, I removed the necessary portion of the oil pan so that there's no interference. Tomorrow, I will bring it to my usual aluminum welder and have them use their magic. I will probablu loose one quart oil capacity. Therefore, I will also make an extension on the passenger side. I will probably use 1/4" aluminum sheets. I was also thinking welding some fins to help cool the oil pans, even though room is limited.

Lee

Lee,

The extension I put onto my lower oil pan gives me about 1.5-2 litres extra capacity. I followed the photos of a grp A sump and made my own internal baffles and made up a card board extension. I then gave it all to a alloy fabricator who fab'ed it all up really nicely.

Divyesh

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