Jaymic nose panel replacement scans? &rough cut nose adv

[JustinB]

Does anybody still have these? IIRC, it was two or three scanned pages illustrating exactly how Jaymic (I think) went about removing and replacing a nose panel and fenders. If anybody still has them, could you please post? Thanks.

I was looking at a nose and fenders to buy, but the door knobs who decided to remove it from the car used a damn sawzall to cut away the welds to the frame rails. This obviously left a very very rough cut, and no solid section of nose directly under the rails. If I were even to do this, I have a nose on a car that wasnt welded there and afaik, is solid where it should be. I could cut a patch panel out and with some luck, weld it in perfectly to where it was cut away from the hacked nose. Is that too much work? I'm guessing it would have to be EXACT too, since that would dictate where the frame rails sit.

[JustinB]

actually, nevermind about having a decent nose. it is cut similarly when it was replaced onto the car it is on now. Somehow it fit properly though, but doesnt the solid flat spot below the frame rails of the nose at least partially dictate where the nose will go? Or is it for the most part hung off the ~2x4" tabs on the top, on the inner fender, then just welded to the frame rails, whatever gap there may be. A new nose certainly would be close, but used ones are a crap shoot.

This is the worse of the two sides, and its UGGGLY, but if I absolutely had to it could probably be built up and the rough edges removed. Is that worth it to fix?

Rough cuts, no care to remove nose from a section of the inner fender *rolleyes...just like removing two noses as far as spot welds are concerned otherwise its fine.

[JustinB]

After looking at my GOOD nose, on my good car, the obvious hit me and the hole there is actually for the frame rail to go through, and sit directly on top. The metal they cut away shouldn;t have been really cut away to begin with, but isn't the end of the world to weld in patch sheet metal to make it solid across, right? It doesnt rely on that to get nose spacing, just to have solid metal under the rail to weld to.

Please let me know if I'm off my rocker or that's a reasonable thing to think and relatively easily fix?

[Mars]

I think my old site may have what you are looking for:

http://www.marsmann.com/2002tii/fenders.htm

[JustinB]

Yeah, thats what I was looking for.

Any advice from anybody whether that front panel is even worth using? I'm doing an m20 swap and will be cutting into whatever panel I use anyway, so something I have to fix up to work properly to begin with is probably not out of the question....

[creede]

I think my old site may have what you are looking for:

http://www.marsmann.com/2002tii/fenders.htm

Does anyone have this scan still? I remember seeing it on Mars site and thought it was a great tutorial. I'd love to give it to my body guy since he doesn't have any experience with 2002's.

[esty]

[jgerock]

Wow - thanks Esty! Never seen those before.

[creede]

Amazing. Thanks so much!

[wtinker]

Esty,

 

Continued thanks... the post that keeps on giving!

[winstontj]

Hmmm... Esty thanks... That gives me a little better insight. No idea why I didn't find that searching.

 

Only thing I don't like about that tutorial is that it says to cut down both sides of the nose panel --they are removing a corroded nose. This car has a late model nose that I'll be swapping out with a proper '71 nose. 

 

How do I remove a late model nose from an early model car without destroying the (excellent condition) existing nose?

[esty]

Tom...i've never seen a nose being replaced but i would guess that you remove the old and install the new like in the pictures

[winstontj]

Tom...i've never seen a nose being replaced but i would guess that you remove the old and install the new like in the pictures

 

See how in photos 15-17 they use a sawzall to "cut down the sides of the nose" and go from there --I'm trying to avoid cutting down those sides and bending the sheet metal forward like that. Hopefully I can hang the late model nose up in the rafters as this one is in excellent condition and they are NLA. 

 

I suppose its time to figure it out on my own --and document and take many photos.

 

Thanks for the tips Esty, big help. Have a great New Years.