Clutch pedal adjustment

[Geep]

Hey fam… y’all are always so helpful, I’m still working on experience to be able to give back! I have replaced my clutch master cylinder. To get it to bleed effectively I felt like I needed to extend the cylinder pushrod out a good bit… the clutch now disengages well, but the clutch pedal remains in an overly extended position. If I adjust the threat rod to have the clutch in its prior position, it won’t disengage until the floor. Can I place a stop to keep the pedal/cmc from fully extending? When I view the action at the CSC it doesn’t move until the pedal is about 1/2 depressed. Prior to replacing the CMC the clutch seemed ‘normal’ but was just bleeding from the cylinder. 

[Preyupy]

It sounds like you have not gotten all of the air out of the system.  Are you running an original 2002 gearbox (slave cylinder mounted low in the bell housing) or a 242 or 245 series gearbox with the slave cylinder mounted about middle of the bell housing on the left side of the gearbox? 

 

If it is the early style the bleed screw needs to be at the top of the cylinder (it can rotate in the housing if not installed correctly) If it is the later style gearbox the slave cylinder bleed screw points DOWN. Otherwise, you will trap air in the cylinder, and you will use master cylinder travel to compress the air before it can move the TOB.   

[TobyB]

I'm with Byron-

stomp the thing like mad, and it will often self- bleed.

 

t

 

[Geep]

Egad what if the bleed valve appears to be located insude middle 🤦🏻‍♂️ 

[Geep]

Alright ladies and gents! Went the stern press and bleed route and this solved my issue. CMC replaced, air free and working as expected thank you!