Geep

When I pulled the ds this weekend it appears I did not correctly install the lock bushing and the nut backed out some. This resulted is roto-jingly sound I asked about in a previous post, and possibly also the slipping out of second. Tightening the nut (and properly installing the lock bushing) I put it back together, eliminating the problem sound and improving gear ‘retention’, but its still a problem, and will pop out when engine braking in 2nd. Someone suggested that the output shaft may have crept slightly toward the engine causing misalignment in the synchros? Made some sense… going to pull it back apart this weekend, replace some seals, and properly torque the output yoke nut to be sure the main shaft pulls back into alignment. thats the latest. I appreciate everyone’s help over several different threads that apparently related haha.

While tracking an issue of my ‘76 ‘02 slipping out of second gear, I noticed the nut securing the yoke to the transmission output shaft was loose. There was a little (couple mms) of in-out play here. Could this contribute to gear slip-out, and what is the proper way to install this nut locking plate (?) between the rubber coupling (guibo?) and the output shaft?

As dar as I can tell… it feels like it fits sloppily into second. No real evident sounds or vibrations. It tends to slip out at neutral thrust (no gas, slight downhill coast so little engine braking), and it seems to slip in two steps. The stick will slip slightly back toward neutral but will remain in gear, but at this point it goes any time. On several occasions I was not able to reengage second until going thru other gears. Occasional grind when trying to reengage shortly after slipping out.

So where should I begin to look? This is a new problem… it began about a week after I finished changing out the clutch master cylinder which in my head I can’t place how they would be related (master cylinder seems to work well) and gears 1,3 and 4 have no issues, neither does reverse. I’ve seen bent forks in the trans a possible issue, but we’re fairly gentle with shifting. Any ideas where so start looking? I’ll be dropping the exhaust and driveshaft today to get better access to the linkages. crappy video of shifting through the range… its not helpful to me but maybe to yall? IMG_2420.mov

Alright ladies and gents! Went the stern press and bleed route and this solved my issue. CMC replaced, air free and working as expected thank you!

Egad what if the bleed valve appears to be located insude middle 🤦🏻‍♂️

Hey fam… y’all are always so helpful, I’m still working on experience to be able to give back! I have replaced my clutch master cylinder. To get it to bleed effectively I felt like I needed to extend the cylinder pushrod out a good bit… the clutch now disengages well, but the clutch pedal remains in an overly extended position. If I adjust the threat rod to have the clutch in its prior position, it won’t disengage until the floor. Can I place a stop to keep the pedal/cmc from fully extending? When I view the action at the CSC it doesn’t move until the pedal is about 1/2 depressed. Prior to replacing the CMC the clutch seemed ‘normal’ but was just bleeding from the cylinder.

Thanks all I’ll take a look and post some pics. The previous bearing was very worn and the shaft was sitting lower, so there was no noise (but light vibration) from the worn rubber around the support bearing. A washer (2mm thick) between the carrier and the frame will change the angle enough to cause issues then? Other supports for the shift ass’y seem pretty tight. All factory or appears to be. Both my axle and donor axle (backup) have the same shiny ring where the shift ass’y seems to have rubber things in the past.

1976 2002 manual Hey fam! So I’ve replaced the ds center support bearing and I still have this very slight metallic rubbing sound coming from under the shifter (4sp manual) that of course only occurs when the vehicle is rolling. When I apply any downward force on the shifter the noise gets louder. Can I: put a washer or 2 between the support bearing and frame to effectively drop the that center bearing a few mms to help it better clear the shift components? add a washer to the trans mount bushing to raise output and shifter ass’y to increase the angle some and provide some clearance that way? Some other bracing to give any slight correction to these clearances? cheers!

Im a ding dong I figured it out 🤦🏻‍♂️ Lawd… I got them apart but it’s been hell trying to get the assembly back together. Does anyone have any tips, tricks or links? All my searches just yield the assemblies themselves, which at this point is tempting…

So I found a ‘new’ (replica) nose panel to replace my busted nose. It does not have the big square cutouts for the (US?) bumper. Can I just ‘delete’ these brackets or is there anything I should be aware of before cutting them out? Not looking to a bumper back, I dont have one anyway…

Always a fun game… replacing my nose panel, and it had me looking closer at this sticky goo substance. Comes from the back of this (thing) with a black, red and green wire with a connector. Pics attached!

Can you link that thread so I can check it out?

Before I start taking this thing apart… will I need to drop the exhaust before replacing this bearing, or can I just remove the rear half of the driveshaft to replace the bearing? Pic for reference.

Thanks! I didn’t think to look within the shared post 🤦🏻‍♂️

What sort of adhesive do I need to use?

there are ABSOLUTELY giant speaker holes cut in the shelf. My son noted the same. I’ll close those up! Also real seal ordered as opposed to the Lowe’s Thermoking quick fix I used.

Hey all… so I just got the muffler replaced on my 1976 2002. The original muffler was pretty rusted out the bottom and although a little loud, it wasnt too much if a problem save a little exhaust in the car from time to time. Once replaced however, when push WOT exhaust will BILLOW into the cab almost choking me out… its pretty straightforward and everything seems well fit as far as I can tell. Muffler shop says its coming in through the trunk (there are no seals) because of the vacuum created now that all the exhaust actually exits the rear of the vehicle as opposed to exiting under the muffler (and dissipating perhaps?) as it did before. I put some seal material around the trunk and though it has improved its still pretty bad. Any credence to the muffler shop’s claim, and any ideas on how to best prevent this? Just cut a hole in the bottom of the muffler and return it to its original state? Pic for reference Geep

Thanks so much y’all. Ive got her mended and running strong. She looks very tired (rust, spray foam and black bedliner paint) but she sings sweet and handles beautifully. Its a whole ass project and more than I bargained for but I’ll enjoy the drive for a bit and try to figure out whats next. Your input was invaluable!

Nope haha. But Ive made a bracket out of some aluminum angle that dry fits, just gota finish it up. As the new parent Im learning I need to take these one at a time or I start throwing things geep

Thank you so much this is great info! Now to find an excuse to bail out of work lol

So nothing responds unless I have a wire directly from the battery to B+ on the alt. I may have misread what you’re saying… there is gauge (12 or 10ga best guess) wire attached to the B+ in the alternator wire group (shown in my later pic post). This wire goes into the harness and out into the ether far all I know (yet). The culprit roasted wire appeared to be 12ga, directly from the battery to the alternator. This wire was attached outside of the harness and alt wire group. The cause looks to be where the metal retaining clips cut through the insulation and it grounded there, resulting in the melt. Again, this particular wire looks to be added after the fact. Without this wire, wired direct from battery to B+, the car is a brick. When I touched a new wire here everything lit up and (appeared) to run an normal though I did not turn the engine over.

Here is a start… I’ll need to scrape some melted tape off to get better colors, this poor thing is pretty beat/hacked up. I don’t KNOW if its a CA vehicle, but it does appear that its in the very last group of ‘02s made. I am in SC and it has been in state for 20 years or more as far as I can tell… but I suppose thats anecdotal and less factual. Any emission’s equipment appears to have been stripped. If there are telltale parts that might be left behind to tell me if its a CA vehicle I can look for them. Pictures: cardboard backed pic is the alternator group. Green circle connected to the starter solenoid. Blue circle to B+ on alt, yellow circle is a three wire plug to the alt… says these should lead to the regulator but I have not tracked that down yet. Red circle definitely looks like it should be plugged in somewhere but it was not plugged in when I got to it. pic with single red wire is part of the culprit. The (now bare) wire was crimped in with the wire you see. It ran from battery + to the B+ and was affixed to the outside of the alternator group. The red wire you see (still in fine shape) appears to run to the circled relay which I can best figure is maybe the fanfare relay? Next pic is the same culprit wire (red circle) and the wire (green circle) that appears to run to the ignition switch. You can make out the large gauge red wire that runs to the starter just above the battery. Note the paltry green wire (by purple line) that grounds alternator. The blue circle is the alternator group Ive cut the sleeve from around. last pic is just an overhead shot, to see whatever can be seen. Im trying not to be too forceful moving things around and everything seems so fragile. dang thing runs and drives great but the body is a hopeless mess. Not really sure of my goal just yet, at the moment just learning and enjoying and trying not to dump a mint into ‘fixing it up’ before I have a solid grasp of what I have gotten myself into. Cheers and thanks!

This schematic is great… but it doesn’t match what I have in my floyd workshop manual. It DOES however (from what little I can see) appear to better match whats actually in my 1976 ‘02 4speed. Im trying to work through where all these things go, what various disconnected plugs are etc. Can you share a schematic, or recommend a better service manual than what I’m working with?

Its just a piece of green 12ga thhn… oy, I have some digging to do for sure. She’s all hacked up. Guess it’s how I’ll learn it.