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Accusump?


Dudeland
Go to solution Solved by TobyB,

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I have a windage tray with a baffled oil pan, both from I.E.

 

I am wondering if a race pan is easier (like the one below).  I do like the idea of having oil in my turbo immediately, which the Accusump would provide. 

 

I did think of this before and toyed with the idea of programming the MS to only start fuel and spark when I had pressure at the turbo oil inlet.  But this doesn't address driving, just startup. I have 225 x 15's on it so the potential is there for hard cornering (that is a whole other kettle of fish).  I am a big believer in having it and not needing it, rather than needing it and not having it. 

 

P.S Speaking of protecting your bottom end, has anyone tried to make a girdle for the bottom end of the M10? I have a feeling that the answer is yes, but it is $60k

 

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"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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49 minutes ago, Preyupy said:

The byproduct of an engine that is tilted to one side is the oil has an easy time running up the side of the block.  That and how much oil you can get to run up the front timing cover when you step on the brakes.  This is not a problem I have ever had on street cars but it is common on the race cars.  An Accusump is a viable band-aid but the best fix is a properly designed oil pan with baffles/trap doors/windage trays and scrapers if you have to stay wet sump.  The best is obviously dry sump.  The absolutely best part of an Accusump is the ability to pressurize the oil system before you start the engine. 

 

Just for your information I have found a couple of the electric valves that were used in Accusump systems over the years that worked more like one way valves.  When they were OFF oil would not flow FROM the Accusump but if the engine was running and making more pressure that what is stored in the accumulator then oil would flow INTO the accumulator.  Conversely when the valve was ON oil would flow FROM the accumulator but would NOT flow BACK into it.  I am not sure where these valves came from but we did need to replace them.  

I do think of this as well.  More parts, more points of failure.   I am not happy about having to diagnose a bad valve or faulty electronic valves. 

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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20 minutes ago, Dudeland said:

 

 

image.thumb.png.49588af56d9ca81742e6a0d73d62eca3.png

I have been using that pan for a lot of years on the Wet Sump race engines and it does a great job, the scraper is a help as well.  I think I even have a spare sitting on the shelf.  Having the MS not turn on the ignition until you have oil pressure just means you are going to work your battery and starter harder every you start the engine.  It will take the same number of crankshaft rotations BEFORE you get pressure.  The difference between if there are explosions going on in the combustion chambers or not is insignificant.  Other than the top half of the rod bearings nothing else has an increased or decreased load (cam, rockers, main bearings etc) of any significance for the few moments before oil pressure is up.  

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

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1 hour ago, Preyupy said:

I have been using that pan for a lot of years on the Wet Sump race engines and it does a great job, the scraper is a help as well.  I think I even have a spare sitting on the shelf.  Having the MS not turn on the ignition until you have oil pressure just means you are going to work your battery and starter harder every you start the engine.  It will take the same number of crankshaft rotations BEFORE you get pressure.  The difference between if there are explosions going on in the combustion chambers or not is insignificant.  Other than the top half of the rod bearings nothing else has an increased or decreased load (cam, rockers, main bearings etc) of any significance for the few moments before oil pressure is up.  

That is a really good point in terms of rotations until pressure is built.   

 

I do see a special "turbo" Accusump, that will feed your turbo while it spools down.  Comparatively speaking I am running a "teeny" turbo.  Not some monster 80mm beast, so the amount of inertia will be much less, hence I feel it may not be necessary.  The turbo I have is a Turbonetics with ceramic bearings, so it is built for the heat.  There is only oil cooling, not water. 

 

 

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WWW.CANTONRACINGPRODUCTS.COM

The Accusump Turbo After-Oiler solves the main cause of Turbo wear and failure by supplying a pressurized discharge of oil to the hot turbo bearings during turbo spool down. This oil will lubricate and cool the bearings and prevent coke build up.

 

 

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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