Weber 32/36 DGAV water to electric choke swap?

[swizman]

For reasons that would bore most to tears, I need to convert Schwarz (Weber 32/36 DGAV) from a water to electric choke system.  In my parts stash, I happen to have a 32/36 DGAV (needs a rebuild) that has the electric system.  I've done a preliminary removal of both electric and water choke housings, and it seems like a simple swap (see pix). 

 

1. Does anyone have any experience with this?  Is it just a bolt on swap, or am I missing something?  Are there other adjustments that must be considered when changing to the electric system?

 

2. And since carbs are not really my strong point, it looks like it must be necessary to pre-tension the bi-metal spring to correctly adjust the initial cold choke setting. So, I could certainly use some guidance on that, or other choke setting wisdom as well.

 

3. If I'm able to pull this off I've heard two schools of thought on connecting the electric lead...to the coil, or to a switched circuit directly.  Comments on this?

 

Any help very, very much appreciated so I can get this guy over to Brisbane this weekend.  Thanks!

 

[TobyB]

It's really that easy.

 

Yes, you pretension it however much makes the thing work right for you on your carb in your climate.

I found it to be fiddly at first, taking 3 or 5 tweaks (make marks so you know where you are)

and then when you get it right, it just works after that.  The mark on the housing is a starting

place, but I found it to be not enough tension.

 

I always found switched hot somewhere else- why add anything to the coil

circuit that could short, pop the fuse, and strand you?  

 

hth

 

t

 

[swizman]

Right on, Toby.  Thanks for the quick reply and reassurances.  I'll tackle that task tonight as soon as return home from my fake job...and get to the real job of working on my cars!

[worzella]

Hi. Do a search on “Fast idle stopped working” and I think I offered some wisdom

 

I am tuning my DGEV fast idle and choke and as Toby says... it is fiddly. My carb is new and I tried having the plastic choke adjustment metal align with the case mark. Way too stiff and fast idle would not set to high cam

 

Move plastic unit so metal line was at about 2 ish oclock. This got the cam to set properly when popping the gas pedal, but butterflies would never fully open. So I rotated a bit more clockwise and seems to be the sweet spot

 

Cam sets properly and butterflies open after reaching temp

 

Msg me if you have questions

 

Have fun!!

 

Randy

[swizman]

Thanks Randy, I'm about two weeks late I guess!   Ultimately I think I got the butterflies to properly open on warm up, but I never properly tweaked the kick-down from fast idle.   I'll reference your post in the future as I'm sure I will revisit this issue.  The advice is much appreciated.

 

Well, the short story is that it didn't matter much as Schwarz died hard on the way to Brisbane and needed a tow home (deep nasty engine problems courtesy of the PO).  Then wrestling with a buggered carrier bearing on Malaga's driveshaft...just as Polaris rolls in my driveway fresh from the paint booth while Granatrot sits quietly jealous of Polaris' new look.  sigh.  Four is really too effin many....

[TobyB]

Quote

Four is really too effin many....

 

I have no idea what you're talking about, there...

 

t