swizman

Solex
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About swizman

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Argeles-Gazost, FRANCE

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  1. Bump for this question. I have feelers out to the FFVE (French Classic Car Federation) and to the BMWCCA. But while I'm waiting on them, still putting the question to the forum. Still wondering if I'm gonna run into a brick wall with my "modifications". Thanks!
  2. swizman

    Tachometer help

    Apologies all, I guess I never followed up on this post. Just wanted to mention how I finally solved the problem. And it was painfully obvious, and something I should've tried before I went pestering the good people on this forum. I ran a new wire from the coil to the tach, just as a test, and the thing fired right up. In Nevada we've got a bunch of mice and rats with a limited food supply and sometimes wires are a tempting meal. I suspect that the subject wire was chewed through while it was at the body shop. In any case the tach is now functioning. My gratitude to all who responded!
  3. swizman

    Door install tricks and tips

    Sorry Aussie, I took a look again at your post and I totally missed the mark on what you needed. So lets have another go... My thoughts: I had a similar situation with Polaris when I was adjusting the window frames after I installed new seals on the driver's side (today's effort on the passenger side, and played out a little easier because it seems I started with a situation that just needed a little tweaking instead of a major day of effort.). In the prior case, I went every which way...all at once. I played with the door adjustment. The window frames. The window. I ran into the desert screaming... Eventually I started back at square one. I didn't give a crap about the window frames or the window. I just focused on the door. I loosened all of the window frame bolts to the max...even removing a few. Then I got the door to open and close correctly...keep in mind, of you are using knee line and belt line trim, you must leave space for those. It is not a bad idea to hang the trim before you are doing this. As the door opens and closes, it seems like there's just a hair's width between the trim and the front fender, sometimes. Second step: I worked with the super wobbly window frame. As Mike said, just be prepared to have Zen-like patience with that thing. I'm not sure what your situation is...you mentioned you installed new(?) window frames, or refurbished? Anyway, perhaps it's necessary to shim some stuff up/down to get it to fit properly? I agree with Mike, they are just a PITA, plain and simple. Sometimes you get lucky with it. Sometimes you want to run into the desert screaming. Third step: adjust the window...which occasionally involves adjusting that damn frame...again. But at least you have better than a ball park idea of how far not to go and perhaps you can find a happy medium. I will concur with you, that if the door is being prevented from closing because "you feel like you're bending metal" on the vent window frame, then something is not right, and needs to be adjusted. sorry I couldn't be more specific on some items...it seems like everyone's situation is a bit different... Again, good luck and sorry for the first "red herring" post...
  4. swizman

    Door install tricks and tips

    Well, what a coincidence. I was just playing with the doors on Polaris today trying to get them to work. I had moderate success, but I still think I'm muscling the doors closed too much, even with the new seals. So, I'll pass on a few things I worked through, and perhaps you can build on that... First off, if I had to do it again, I think the job would be MUCH easier with a partner to help out. Second...be SUPER careful. A poor initial adjustment can mean loosing some paint as the front of the doors open and close against the front fender. 1. Window height was VERY crucial creating door closing resistance. Look carefully as the top of the window meets the seal. If the window is too high, it won't set in the seal correctly causing the window to interfere with proper closing. Window height is adjusted with the two stops on either side of the window mechanism. Ping me if you need more specifics. 2. I got mine to adjust by first starting with the guidelines above...equal distance front and rear. 3. Then I adjusted the striker/receiving mechanism to accept the door in that position. 4. Iterations from there, back and forth, until you get the adjustments right. It would have helped me have a partner so that, once the door was closed, (or even partly open) I could have made adjustments in door position from outside the car, with my helper inside the car loosening/tightening the six hinge adjustment bolts as necessary. I just got lucky, I got a good striker position set, closed the door, and then tightened the bolts from the drivers side. Good luck...be patient. Looks like you're gonna have an awesome ride. I went through months of trials with Polaris. It was worth it! Later S-
  5. So, I've decided to pack it all up and move to France. Polaris ('76 2002) has just emerged from a daily driver "B level" restoration, and I'd like to take the little bugger with me to France. I'm looking for anyone who might have some advice on what might be involved at the receiving port (likely Fos sur Mer, near Marseille; or Le Havre). I have contacted a few shippers who seem to think that their agents will be able to usher it through customs without any issues. But I was wondering if there was anyone out there with recent experience who can confirm that before I drop $3000 to ship it over there. Then, I was wondering how sticky do the French get on assessing "road-worthiness" of the car when registration time approaches. My French contacts seem to thing the FFVE helps you get an "Old Timer" exemption and the Certificate of Conformity, and it's not too bad. But I wonder if it's really that simple. My concerns: 1. 14" wheels instead of the 13" wheels. 2. Weber/K&N set up vs the stock Solex/Stock air cleaner. 3. All emission systems have been removed/disabled. Everything else is pretty well stock. I'd greatly appreciate any thoughts, or even recommendations on shippers, as I have not yet committed to any one company. Thanks! sidebar: Malaga was sold by the way, and the the new owner is really showing it a lot of love. Nice to see that! Schwarz and Granatrot (and probably a a bunch of parts) will likely go up for sale early this summer.
  6. swizman

    1976 Granatrot 2002 project car and parts

    Thanks for the positive wishes, but the response was pretty underwhelming. Probably my fault. I should've posted a more complete parts list and a few more parts pix. It's in storage until I return from overseas at some point. I'll mark it as sold, but if there is interest ping me on the personal email in the text above. It may take several days for me to respond. My gratitude to all of those curious enough to have a look!
  7. swizman

    1976 Granatrot 2002 project car and parts

    As a clarification, the included door panels are black, and are not the ones pictured in the photos.
  8. FOR SALE: 1976 GRANATROT 2002. Car and parts together. THIS IS A PROJECT CAR and does not currently run. It must be trailered by the buyer. First, let me offer my sincere apologies for the quick and sometimes cheesy pix of what I’ve got to offer. A life change and move overseas forces the sale of my Granatrot restoration project. This car is special, to me at least, for 3 reasons. 1. It’s Granatrot, an uncommon ’02 color and my favorite of the “jewel colors”. 2. The serial number, 2370020 makes it the 20th car built for the 1976 model year (dorky, yes, but I think that’s pretty cool). 3. The body is in very good shape with no major dents or rust issues. My apologies in advance, BUT THE CAR AND THE PARTS ARE OFFERED ONLY AS A PACKAGE DEAL. I will, however, entertain two buyers who are willing to purchase parts and car separately between them. Parts are not for sale individually, but I will entertain an offer for the car only. The compressed timeline of my departure will not allow me to answer requests to sell/ship parts individually. My appreciation for your understanding. I’d like to see this car off to a good home, and am happy to offer clarification or transparency to any interested buyers. Conditions of Sale: Price for car and parts is $4,000. Cash only. Car is located about 45 min outside of Reno, Nevada. Local Pick up only. If I do not have a suitable offer by January 27, I will move the car and parts into storage. I’ve been procrastinating, and by my own fault, have left this to the last minute (probably because I didn’t want to face the reality that I will have to sell it) and I must sell quickly. I have many other pictures of the car. If there is genuine interest from a buyer, we will arrange a phone con, via contact through my personal e-mail first: thermalsea@gmail.com. I will try to check forum messages but I've got many balls in the air at the moment, so my personal e-mail is the most surefire way to get in touch. HISTORY: I bought the car in January 2015 and there is a clean title in my name. After over two years of gently hounding the previous owner, he finally sold it to me. To my knowledge he was the original owner. The car was not running when I bought it, and has not been started since. The previous owner reported electrical/ignition problems. He got frustrated with it, ran low on desire and money to fix it, and the car sat idle for nearly a decade before I bought it. The engine turned at the crank when I got it home, and appears to have no binding/issues/odd noises on either the top or bottom end. The car has been outside, but in the dry Nevada climate. There is some significant rust on the “air dam” part of the nose cone, some rust on the right rear wheel well. There are two equal dents on the aft side of both of the front wheel wells. I've tried to focus on these in the photos below. I do not know what caused these and am open to counsel and to offer transparency as to what. If there was a front end collision, the car has been repaired very satisfactorily. The paint is in terrible shape, and there is surface rust on the body and some in the spare tire well. There is no rust anywhere else on the car. It came with factory air. It is a non-sunroof car. It has not been molested or modified. Original engine with matching serial # matching the VIN. wheel wells are clean of rust. i have pix to support that, but could not fit them all here. PARTS: Many of the parts included with the car are pictured, and many are not pictured due to the space limitations here. I’ve been accumulating parts for this car as well as setting aside the best of my own stash in the hopes of assembling a “non-museum” “non-garage queen”, a “B Level” restoration to be one of my daily drivers. All parts are “New” to “B+ to C+”…definitely not high level restoration stuff, but would build a beautiful, head-turning car none the less. Of note, the interior is from a 1974 vintage and the seat panels are leather (backs and sides vinyl), and appeared to have been recently reupholstered when I bought them on this forum. The taillight lenses are probably among the worst items in the included parts (see pix and judge for yourself). Door panels (C+ shape) that come with new Aardvarc plywood cards (not pictured). A stock, but not pressure tested radiator is also included but not pictured. A speedo that was to be sent out for odo and needle repair, is also included but not pictured. A set of steel wheels in good condition are also included but not pictured, along with the trim rings. Also not pictured: Both L and R front grills (C+ shape, no cracks), rocker panels (new) with used seals (B shape), new locking gas cap, excellent cond factory sport steering wheel, Euro parts door seals (new), Front window seal w/bead and chrome finish piece (new), hood seals (new), door handle seals (new), underdash press board parts, center console shift area and boot, pedal pads (new), trunk vinyl, all door handles, arm rests and associated screws and trim (C+ shape or better), wiper arms (C shape), shift boot. All of the a/c control bits and knobs appear to be present. Pictures of any of the non pictured stuff available to an interested buyer after our phone con. On my list of what’s still missing: Door sill plastic covers and seals, headliner, carpet kit, lower steering column “pressboard” cover, RH swing window (window is in tact, mechanism does not work), All betline trim, all kneeline trim (I was going to delete this, but for those who want it…) Rear window seal, chrome bead and finish piece. I’m sure there’s bits here and there that will be needed to get Granatrot on the road again. Bottom line: A nice opportunity to scoop up a unique car for a good price. NOTE: Since time is short, contact me directly at thermalsea@gmail.com before Sunday, January 27. As long as there is a commitment to local pickup, I am willing to work with whatever reasonable offer is proposed. Thanks for looking!
  9. swizman

    Tachometer help

    Hey PatAllen, in answer to your question, yes, the tach was working with the Fireball. That's the set up its had since I bought the car in 2004. im suspecting that's something happened at the body shop or that a critter found its way into the wiring. Still have not tried running a separate black wire...busy pulling and crating the "new"Recaros and getting them down to Aardvark for a refresh. Then new front pads on Malaga. It'll be this weekend before I can touch Polaris again.
  10. swizman

    Tachometer help

    Thanks guys! RE: The resistance wire...yeah I noticed the double whammy of resistors when I looked at it with fresh eyes. I'll take the comments into account, but I suspect that Mintgun's comment about the burnt area on the resistance wire and that "this doesn't look good" prolly means the resistance wire is fried anyway....which would necessitate the need for the additional ballast. The car runs great and the motor rips...its easily the best of my '02s, so whatever voodoo is going on there, I'm hesitant to "fix what ain't broke". The tach was working with this set up when I was using Polaris as my daily driver several years ago. I just didn't remember if it was still working when I drove it to the body shop last Fall. The simple solution seems to just make another black wire and run it to the coil as HBChris suggested. That's a good idea, and I was prolly so frustrated at the end of my quest, I overlooked this simple test. I'll give this a go and post a follow-up as soon as I'm able. As an aside, my day yesterday was occupied acquiring a Grey Market 1979 320i with the sport package. So it looks like Polaris will finally get Recaros AND an LSD. F--k Yeah!! Yup, the Recaros need a bit of attention... Thanks again for the help...and if anyone else has any ideas about why that tach isn't cooperating, I'm all ears...
  11. Polaris daily driver resto is coming along nicely, but now the tachometer is not working. I'm pretty sure it was working before I set off on this project...pretty sure because it's been sitting for about six years... The car starts and runs nicely. Battery and subsequent areas of the car are well grounded/checked and cleaned. Instrument panel lights, gas gauge, coolant temp all work well. The fuse box contacts have been well cleaned and all fuses have been replaced with new ones. Photos show blue wire sheathing separated from keepers for clarity. Here's what I've tried: Checking and cleaning contacts at the coil end (photos below...I've got the Crane XR700 set up, that I'm very happy with, incidentally). Pulling the instrument cluster and cleaning/checking contacts there. Pulling the tach and looking for any obvious gremlins/damage. Setting a good ground wire from the back of instrument cluster to bare metal on the car. Pulling another tach out of my stash and trying that one. Tracing the black tach wire to see if any critters (or my body work guy) may have damaged it. Going inside, crying, praying, pledging fealty to any deity who might help fix the damn thing. And thus endith my repertoire of troubleshooting skills. Any help/wisdom is, as always, much appreciated....
  12. swizman

    Massive 2002 Auction on Aug 4, 2018

    That's terrible news. So sorry for your loss. Checked out the pix link, and there is some VERY nice stuff up for sale. Wish I wasn't across the country...I'd be there. GLWS!
  13. swizman

    What did you do to your 2002 today !

    The carpet is what Esty refers to as her "#5" which has a mix of dark blue, silver and black in it, which is hard to tell from those pix in that light. It was great guidance from Esty as Polaris will stick with the Marine Blue interior it was OE'ed with. I did a test fit with the black console last night and the whole "look" is fantastic. That carpet took some effort to install correctly, but it was definitely worth the time invested. This is a daily driver restoration, but still trying to make it look nice. BTW, heading down to Harbor Freight tomorrow to replace my loaned and never returned soldering iron. Paul's advice is golden for anyone working with a carpet install. If you try to pre-punch holes when installing the carpet, invariably they will not line up when it's glued down. Laying the carpet, then finding the hole location with a sharp pointy thing (dental tool, xacto knife, etc) then burning it open with a pencil soldering iron is the way to go. If you don't cauterize those holes, and go to screw/unscrew something, the screw will wind up the thread and start pulling your new carpet apart. I did use the ol' BBQ lighter to seal/cauterize any of the larger cuts, tho. 😜
  14. swizman

    What did you do to your 2002 today !

    ...because I don't have a soldering iron, if you can believe it 😳
  15. swizman

    What did you do to your 2002 today !

    Excellent advice Paul. In fact I do recall that very irritation happening in another carpet kit I installed. Got the BBQ ligter and xacto knife out and carefully did this for all holes (hood release bolts, under dash trim screw points, etc).