Tii struts with Volvo callipers

[TobyB]

The stubs are the same, but the rest of the strut's different.

 

I think you'll be fine with the parts you have to start.  I ran IE flares, 0 offset rims, etc, etc

and really never had any trouble with the hubs (late E21) and bearings.

 

If you track this car, you WILL want pretty serious front brake ducting, and I'd suggest either ducting the rear drums

(again, I raced this way for years:  ducts were the secret to get the shoes to work)

or go to a rear disc, which doesn't seem to need ducting.

 

Yup, Ray, '77 rotors and E12 calipers were the 'specified' big brake that I was running for years, in E Production.

 

t

 

[Driv3r]

The stubs are the same, but the rest of the strut's different.
 
I think you'll be fine with the parts you have to start.  I ran IE flares, 0 offset rims, etc, etc
and really never had any trouble with the hubs (late E21) and bearings.
 
If you track this car, you WILL want pretty serious front brake ducting, and I'd suggest either ducting the rear drums
(again, I raced this way for years:  ducts were the secret to get the shoes to work)
or go to a rear disc, which doesn't seem to need ducting.
 
Yup, Ray, '77 rotors and E12 calipers were the 'specified' big brake that I was running for years, in E Production.
 
t
 

Thanks Toby, so what are my options if I was going to upgrade Volvo calipers?

[TobyB]

Upgrading TO Volvo is easy- 81-83 E21 hubs, 77 rotors, two .070" washers, trim the backing plates a bit.

 

That's a lot of brake for a car that weighs a tonne.

 

I've not gone beyond that because I haven't needed to...

 

t

[Driv3r]

Upgrading TO Volvo is easy- 81-83 E21 hubs, 77 rotors, two .070" washers, trim the backing plates a bit.
 
That's a lot of brake for a car that weighs a tonne.
 
I've not gone beyond that because I haven't needed to...
 
t

I've already got new reconditioned Volvo's installed. I haven't been able to find next level upgrade option from Volvo calipers to somethings with better braking power. Car is turbocharged and I was looking into options (if any) to go booster-less.

Thanks

[TobyB]

Oh.  Lee of Massive fame makes adapters for Wilwood.  

The dimensions might cross to AP or something easier to get in Australia

 

Honestly, you can do it yourself if you choose the right caliper.

I've only used the 77 rotor- the 2002 wants a pretty deep hat, and 

that's not very common any more.

 

If you already have the Volvo parts, I'd use them and see how they do.

You can certainly remove the booster, you just need a (pretty small, like 17 mm)

master, and going to rear discs helps a LOT, because it reduces travel.

You'll have pretty high pedal pressure- playing with aggressive pads will help a lot.

 

At that point, it becomes kind of what you want-  not many go this route.

 

t

 

[Driv3r]

Oh.  Lee of Massive fame makes adapters for Wilwood.  
The dimensions might cross to AP or something easier to get in Australia
 
Honestly, you can do it yourself if you choose the right caliper.
I've only used the 77 rotor- the 2002 wants a pretty deep hat, and 
that's not very common any more.
 
If you already have the Volvo parts, I'd use them and see how they do.
You can certainly remove the booster, you just need a (pretty small, like 17 mm)
master, and going to rear discs helps a LOT, because it reduces travel.
You'll have pretty high pedal pressure- playing with aggressive pads will help a lot.
 
At that point, it becomes kind of what you want-  not many go this route.
 
t
 

Thanks Toby, I'll look into adapters. [emoji1360]

[M3M3]

On 5/15/2017 at 10:13 PM, Driv3r said:

 

Highly boosted turbo M10 here. Solid braking is my main concern, then coilovers.

normal struts and volvo brakes still not a concern.  you don't need or want bigger stuff.  especially bigger rotors.  the bearings on normal and tii struts flex too much for large fixed calipers and rotors.  the big rotors wobble more at the edge and push the pistons back causing a soft pedal.  

 

 just make sure you use good brake pads and duct air to them.  i ran a track season in my M2 with normal struts, GC adjustable spring perches, volvo calipers, porterfield R4 pads, fat r-comp tires.  zero issues.  i don't baby any car on a track.  they are wrung out to whatever their potential is....a lot.  then i do it again.

Edited May 17, 2017 by mlytle

[TobyB]

I second that-  The Volvo brakes are very capable for a 2002 with lots of poot.

 

t

[Driv3r]

6 minutes ago, TobyB said:

I second that-  The Volvo brakes are very capable for a 2002 with lots of poot.

 

t

 

Have you got any photo of how you duct air (im not using airdam). Much appreciated.

[M3M3]

Pics and details of how I did it in my build thread.

 

Air dam not needed.   

Ducts only needed if you are going to be doing repeated hard stops....like on a track.

[TobyB]

I can take some- I agree, ducts ONLY for a SERIOUS lapping day.  I lapped my standard

track rat car for years with Textar pads and no ducting at all, and it never minded in the least.

Even at Mission Raceway, a tight little slow- speed left- foot braking track.

 

In fact, with a turbo, you'd probably want to REMOVE the ducts if you weren't lapping-

the brakes will over cool, over water, and too much junque will get in there.  Or maybe

use a more open backing plate- more modern BMWs shove air into the wheel well,

and then have an open- style backing plate that makes use of the cooler air in the well.

 

Don't obsess over the brakes- the Volvo/vented rotor will give you PLENTY of notice

if/when it's starting to overwork.   It won't just poop out on you right away.  Then you

can upgrade as needed.  

 

t

 

[Driv3r]

Thanks much appreciated boys. Cheers