Time to come clean: I'm officially a P-car owner

[jgerock]

Did a little investigation today.

Engine # 63C4939 Code 930/10    1982 ROW (rest of world = European) 911SC engine

9.8:1 compression ratio

"turbo" 930 series lower valve covers

Plugged air injection ports on the cylinder heads (more research required)

Heat exchangers most likely need replacing (sigh)

Muffler has been welded before (sigh)

Transmission # 915/  61  717 0

Funky clutch mechanism with helper spring

Possibly remnants of the 02 sensor wiring

Pulled the rear wheels off for a good scrubbing.  There are thin aluminum spacers

Wheels are Genuine Fuchs with 1969 stampings.  They are light.

Heater "boxes" with cables

Right side front sway bar mount has been welded (left side looks factory)

Oil lines in RR fender to thermostat

Need to pressure wash the entire bottom

Alternator was making noises to I pulled it out today

I'll take it to an auto electric shop for testing and possible rebuilding.  This one is not like the ones I've seen in the Porsche books

 

 

[M3M3]

Diving right in, eh?

[gregpark]

My exhaust looks about like yours Jim. It's days are numbered. Like they say "if it's made by man, it will fail". When the day comes I'm going all stainless, gulp.

[Kidasters]

The heat exchangers is a big job.  It's pretty common to snap off studs when doing it.  Be careful.

 

Yeah - that looks like O2 Sensor wiring for sure.  

 

Something looks wrong with the helper spring on the clutch.  I'll try and look for some pics for you.

 

Common problem - front and rear swaybar mounts failing.  

 

Paris-Rhone alternators are also common.  Not known for reliability.  I replaced mine with a Bosch alternator when I changed my alternator housing (it was badly cracked).  Also replaced my really cracked fan.  Hope you counted the shims when you pulled the fan belt.

[ray_]

Knowing Jim, he counted the shims, noted their relative positions, and photographed them front and back. And side.

 

[jgerock]

The heat exchangers is a big job.  It's pretty common to snap off studs when doing it.  Be careful.

 

Yeah - that looks like O2 Sensor wiring for sure.  

 

Something looks wrong with the helper spring on the clutch.  I'll try and look for some pics for you.

 

Common problem - front and rear swaybar mounts failing.  

 

Paris-Rhone alternators are also common.  Not known for reliability.  I replaced mine with a Bosch alternator when I changed my alternator housing (it was badly cracked).  Also replaced my really cracked fan.  Hope you counted the shims when you pulled the fan belt.

Not sure if I can stomach the SSI heater boxes but I don't want to do the common "back date" heater.

 

My wording is a little off on the sway bar mount.  The PO had the right rear mount welded back to the body.  Funny how they didn't clean up the weld and spray something on it to keep it from rusting.  I just read that the 77 and earlier cars have replaceable link bushings.  So much to learn..

 

Local reliable rebuilder doesn't have an alternator so I just might order a rebuilt Bosch from Pelican (will also check with Steve P).

 

LOL - 1 shim behind the pulley, 5 in the front.  Had to use a 1/2" breaker bar with jack handle extension to break that nut free (using the alternator holding tool). I'd never get that off on the side of the road.   I put a piece of 2x4 wood between the holding tool and the engine mount bar.   Pelican book says removing the alternator is an "easy" job.  It took me a long time to remove the tiny nuts and washers holding the air channel piece to the back of the alternator (without dropping them).   My car (with 1982 engine) has two or three small brown ground wires but not a "ground strap" as listed in some places.  Should I add the strap while I'm in there?

 

BTW- loosening the A/C compressor and sliding it all the way to the left interferes with the fan housing and the belt is still too tight to remove.  Complete crap.  

[ray_]

Yeah. E24 factory manual says just remove the 2 securing bolts and the clutch master comes out. Never mind that you need to take the pedal box linkage most of the way apart and then you can still maybe just barely get tools in there. Heh...

 

Pelican book says removing the alternator is an "easy" job.  It took me a long time to remove the tiny nuts and washers holding the air channel piece to the back of the alternator (without dropping them).   My car (with 1982 engine) has two or three small brown ground wires but not a "ground strap" as listed in some places.

[M3M3]

loosening the A/C compressor and sliding it all the way to the left

 

if you slid it all the way to the recycle bin the car would be lighter, easier to work on, and just as cool inside!

[jgerock]

if you slid it all the way to the recycle bin the car would be lighter, easier to work on, and just as cool inside!

Need to find a place that will evacuate the system.  Noticed the rear mounted condensor hits the fan housing when the decklid is closed. The fins are all mashed in the center portion.  I'm going to rip everything out once "purged". 

[jgerock]

Ordered a rebuilt Bosch alternator from Steve P this afternoon along with some pulley hardware.   His price was less expensive than Pelican (core charge was less too)  .  I'll have to modify the cooling duct per the instructions.

 

My car has (2) brown ground wires in the engine wiring harness along with a separate ground wire attached to the engine case.  I'm good. 

[Kidasters]

Not sure if I can stomach the SSI heater boxes but I don't want to do the common "back date" heater.

 

My wording is a little off on the sway bar mount.  The PO had the right rear mount welded back to the body.  Funny how they didn't clean up the weld and spray something on it to keep it from rusting.  I just read that the 77 and earlier cars have replaceable link bushings.  So much to learn..

 

Local reliable rebuilder doesn't have an alternator so I just might order a rebuilt Bosch from Pelican (will also check with Steve P).

 

LOL - 1 shim behind the pulley, 5 in the front.  Had to use a 1/2" breaker bar with jack handle extension to break that nut free (using the alternator holding tool). I'd never get that off on the side of the road.   I put a piece of 2x4 wood between the holding tool and the engine mount bar.   Pelican book says removing the alternator is an "easy" job.  It took me a long time to remove the tiny nuts and washers holding the air channel piece to the back of the alternator (without dropping them).   My car (with 1982 engine) has two or three small brown ground wires but not a "ground strap" as listed in some places.  Should I add the strap while I'm in there?

 

BTW- loosening the A/C compressor and sliding it all the way to the left interferes with the fan housing and the belt is still too tight to remove.  Complete crap.  

 

If you don't want SSI's, there are others out there.  SSI are just really popular.  You could look for used stock ones, but the problem is, you can't see in side them to know they aren't rotten.  I think the stock ones are still available.

 

Thought that looked like a rear swaybar mount.  When you say replaceable link bushing, do you mean the end links?  

 

The first time I removed my alternator, I had the same problem with the "big nut" that you did.  When I re-installed it, I used some anti-sieze on the alternator shaft, as well as a lock washer behind the nut.  Plus - there's a P/N for a rubber cap that is supposed to go over the end of the alt shaft.  It's in the PET.  Yah - it's an "easy" job, but a huge pain. Put some anti-sieze around the edge of the new one when you re-install, because it can be a pain to get it out of the housing.

 

If there's no big ground, then yes, install one.  A lot of people put in a bigger ground wire to re-ground the alt to the case.  I didn't last time I was in there, because there's not a lot of room to work, and my ground looked OK.  

 

Getting the belt off - I think I needed a screwdriver to get it off the compressor pulley.  Yeah - it's pretty tight.  I think you can pop it over the edge of the pulley if you get underneath the belt with the compressor loose and all the way to the left.  

 

I don't think that spring on the reverse lever (I think) coming out of the transmission is stock.  Here's a pic from my car:

 

 

Maybe it was a helper to make sure that someone didn't accidentally shift into "R" while driving?  I installed a Seine Systems gate shifter in my car.  Not for the gate as much as for the spring resistance on the shifter (centers the shifter on the 3-4 line).  Plus - it has a reverse "lock out".

 

I told ya  it was a little more difficult to work on than your 2002.  Still fun though.

 

PS - if you do spark plugs - use the stock tool in the tool kit.  It's really useful.  If you need one, I have an extra (bought one on e-bay, because they are hard to find).

Edited October 28, 2015 by Kidasters

[jgerock]

 

 

PS - if you do spark plugs - use the stock tool in the tool kit.  It's really useful.  If you need one, I have an extra (bought one on e-bay, because they are hard to find).

Think my tool kit is complete  - it is very crusty.  I found some petrified stink bugs in the pockets.  After pulling the battery last weekend, I used the wire wheel to clean everything up.  That spark plug tool is neat.  There is a lug wrench and a larger wrench (but it doesn't fit the alternator pulley which takes 24mm socket). Wonder if the 77 cars had a different alt. pulley size.  My car also has the factory Webster spare tire air pump (haven't check to see if it works). 

[gregpark]

Pulling the plugs is a royal pain without the tool. I know first hand, I had wobblies and extensions duct taped together and had to fish out parts on a hole, never again. Get it!

[Kidasters]

Think my tool kit is complete  - it is very crusty.  I found some petrified stink bugs in the pockets.  After pulling the battery last weekend, I used the wire wheel to clean everything up.  That spark plug tool is neat.  There is a lug wrench and a larger wrench (but it doesn't fit the alternator pulley which takes 24mm socket). Wonder if the 77 cars had a different alt. pulley size.  My car also has the factory Webster spare tire air pump (haven't check to see if it works). 

 

I think somewhere around 77 there was a different bolt.  I seem to remember trying to find a new bolt, and that bolt is crazy hard to find. 

 

The open ended wrench isn't for the alt socket.  There's supposed to be a wrench similar to your lug wrench that fits over it.  Page 1 of the PET - it's right next to the tool that holds the spanner for the pulley.  No - they aren't available from the factory (NLA).  Might find one on e-bay, or just stick a breaker bar in your tool kit.

 

If you don't like the plug tool, I bought some cool sockets at SnapOn -

 

https://store.snapon.com/Extensions-Locking-chrome-Extension-Locking-Knurled-6--P647268.aspx

 

They lock together.  Plus - they sell a magnetic plug socket.  Yes - expensive, but less frustrating than what Greg had to do.

[jgerock]

The larger tool is more like a large lug nut tire tool.  I'll post a picture tomorrow and look at the PET file.