Just In Time For Summer - 1971 Bmw 1600

[danco_]

Another good day here in the Long Beach warehouse.

 

I spent the first hour of my morning running to Harbor Freight and another hardware store in search of various cotter pins to button up the suspension. Among what I picked up, I bought these:

 

 

I had no idea Harbor Freight carries Meguiar's products. I'm preparing to give the car another run or two with the no. 7, then finish it with the no. 26. I'm not going for perfect paint because this car is so far from perfect. Just presentable, with definite patina. More "preservation" if you will. 

 

 

 

 

I found a big freezer bag full of various fuses, so I went ahead and replaced them all. One thing I noticed is that on the official BMW sticker on the inside of engine bay states thatthere should only one 16A fuse.  The rest are 8A. I just replaced them all as they were before. I may change them to meet stock configuration. 

 

Before: 

 

After:

 

Bonus, you can see the bullet's trajectory through the firewall and cowl.

 

 

 

 

A shot of two 4-speed driveshafts. One is from the 1600, the other is from a tii. The tii has a better center support bearing, so we will be using that one. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some more shots of the completed rear suspension.

 

All buttoned up:

 

Different angle. You can see the new shocks, struts, swaybar, rear subframe inserts, bbk, and half shaft connection to the LSD unit. 

 

 

The old brake lines were rubber and practically brand new, but I had these laying around. Why not?

 

 

Shot of rear diff (e21 lsd) with the 1976 2002 output flanges. Everything bolted up with no gaps. I consider this a great alternative to the redrilling and spacer combo that everyone seems to think is the only way to go. 

 

 

 

Overall shot:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a shot of the front set up. Can't wait to get the front Wilwood BBK installed. I chose to stay with the single-line system for the new BBK. I'm not sure why. Actually, I had no idea what I was doing when I ordered the parts. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then we double checked everything, and threw the wheels back on and set her down. The front suspension seems very firm and will settle more. I surely don't like how high it's sitting now, but I was assured that once I drive the car a bit with the giant bolt holding the control arm loosened, it will settle. Then with the car on ramps, retighten the bolt. The suspension needs to be preloaded. At least this is what I am told. 

 

Front height: 

 

I grabbed a quick snapshot of how the spring is sitting in the front:

 

 

In the photo above, the spring almost looks over-compressed. I hope this isn't an issue. I don't know of anyone else running Spax suspension. I hope there isn't a good reason for that. 

 

 

Rear height looks much better. Very sporty. I need to roll and pull the fenders if I am to pull this fitment off. I'm kind of scared that it will be too low. I'm sure a 3 dot pad will help some, if needed. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A few random shots. 

 

I snapped a quick photo of the engine bay from directly above. Still a lot of work to do in there, but I am well pleased with the amount of progress happening these last few days.

 

 

 

A shot of the IE radiator along with their 12" electric fan. The fan came part of a kit that they sell. They have great stuff and quality looks good on everything I've purchased so far. 

 

I'll probably mount this Monday-ish

 

 

I'm not really sure what's going on here. This is the drain plug location on the oil pan. I'll do some more digging on this tomorrow. I hope this isn't mickey mouse work. 

 

 

 

I also grabbed a few things from a buddy. All IE pieces. The dizzy is one of their proprietary tii-curved mechanical advance units. I hope it works well with the motor as it is. It's a temporary thing until I get the Megajolt set up. Next up is their water splitter. This piece gets rid of that side nipple that runs to a downdraft intake manifold. And there is an extra hole or two for other sensors...like say, the water temp sensor that will be aiding the electric fan! And last, a heavy duty tranny mount. Likely a 7 series mount.

 

 

 

 

 

Things. They're happening. 

 

I may actually be able to drive this car soon. Fingers crossed. 

 

 

 

Oh wait, I completely forgot about the exhaust. That's kind of a big deal.

[danco_]

A few things today. Less then yesterday, but more than tomorrow.

 

Firstly, we removed the current tranny mount bushing in favor for an IE "HD" unit. I still think it's a 7 Series mount, possibly even an e21 mount. The old mount had waaaayyyyyy too much movement and would let the engine move a good 1.5" laterally. I didn't accept how much movement this mount was allowing so the first chance I got, I swapped it out.

 

Old mount. Notice How much I am able to force it out of shape WITH MY FINGERS. Terrible.

 

 

New "HD" mount. Much better. This was an after photo, even after we replaced the CSB and guibo. The guibo didn't need changing but I did it anyways.

 

 

 

Between those two photos, We re-removed the driveshaft. I wasn't happy with how brittle the rubber had become on the CSB, so apart the driveshaft came and replaced the CSB became. We made sure to mark the orientation of the how the two pieces came together. Twice. Everything went smooth.

 

 

Fresh Guibo while we were at it.

 

 

 

 

 

A quick shot of the infamous "S" on the diff:

 

 

 

 

Replaced parts pile is still growing. There are still a few things that still aren't pictured. This car really got the works this week. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yesterday I bought the guys in the warehouse lunch, which required me to leave and pick it up. When I came back, this was replaced. I didn't want the rubber unit replaced with a poly unit because it was still in good condition and I prefer rubber bushings as much as possible, but whatever. I'm not going to tell them to switch it back. They were just doing good work. I can't be mad at that. Ireland Engineering Poly Steering Coupling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next up was to square this trick little piece away. I preliminarily installed a second temperature sensor. I then went down to the hardware store to find a bolt that would plug that gaping hole. After some digging, I found that the m12 with 1.5 thread pitch was a great fit. I swear, projects like this really make you learn things. Before this, I didn't know how to properly identify a bolt. Half of the time, I got nuts and bolts mixed up. 

 

 

 

 

 

We managed to get a few more things done but I failed to snap photos. I have more things in the mail now that should be arriving tomorrow and Monday, so that should speed up the process as well. 

 

Still waiting on the "Tri Y" headers from Heritage Motorsports. If they get here by next Friday, that would be a christmas miracle. That is one of the very last pieces to this puzzle...to get it driving at least. Then the front BBK, an good alignment, and corner balancing, whatever that is. I just know I want it. 

 

 

More next week. 

 

-Ryan

[danco_]

Didn't feel like going into the office today, so no documentable progress on the 1600. I was waiting on a few things in the mail. All IE pieces, though most of them came from a buddy who had what I needed.

 

That dizzy I posted earlier came without a rotor. This isn't IE's fault, but Andrew did go out of his way to get me another one on the promise of a test drive when this thing is ready. I obliged. 

 

Others things in the photo worth noting: IE's strut bar - light and seems like a strong piece. Can't wait to install it. Then there are the urethan alternator bushings, the fuel pump block off plate, and the 8mm Spark Plug wires. These parts will all be installed and documented tomorrow. I'm hoping to begin buttoning up the plumbing and attaching the wiring harness.

 

The FAQ has great articles on getting most of these things in their correct places with their correct orientation. As badly as I want to start the engine up tomorrow, I'm waiting for the new "Tri Y" headers to ship in from Georgia. I hope to receive them by next week. Then there should be nothing to stop be from setting the timing for the new dizzy, driving a bit and re-adjusting the valves, and breaking in the clutch. And at the same time (after Easter) I will have the front BBK installed.

 

Here is that photo:

 

 

 

I hope to take this car to Bimmerfest this year, even if I only stay for an hour or two. I'm not particularly fond of the local BMW meets, but I will attend one or two in a year. Any more than that and I can usually come up with 10 reasons why I dislike them.

 

 

 

Off topic: I received an email promotion from Knifecenter.com for a cool little knife. Originally $50+, their promotion was for $9.99 for the same knife. I bit and bought it.

 

It showed up today and though not an "end all be all" type of daily carrying blade, I will use it for opening boxes and cutting things. It'll work well for my needs (which are very few). Model: Mayerco Dirk Pinkerton 3" blade, 4" overall length. Small, light, sharp, and feels very good in my hand. It has a spring assisted opening which is very quick as well. It should make for a good daily carry. 

 

 

 

 

Check in tomorrow for more updates.

 

 

 

 

 

 

-Ryan

Updates.

 

 

Didn't do much today. I actually worked a little bit, so progress is small. No biggie. 

 

 

Today was a day or slight cleaning, and figuring out the hoses that go to the heater core. 

One thing that I didn't take into consideration was the difference in heater hoses, heater valves, and head-nipples. They all are different when comparing the 1600 components to 2002 components. 

 

For example, the nipple-part on the back of the head, where the heater hose goes to, is much larger in diameter than the 1600 piece. This means that the hose will need to be swapped out for a 2002 hose. Luck for me, I had a box full of new 2002 hoses. 

 

Hose shot. Hose is too small to fit on head nipple:

 

 

Here is a shot of the archaic 1600 heater valve. I'm glad the PO used the terrible non-BMW hose clamps. 

 

 

Here is the difference between a new 2002 hose vs the old 1600 hose. This hose goes from the heater valve to the back of the head. 2002 = larger girth. I've always wanted to use that word in a non-sexual context. Girth.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I managed to replace the hose, but I had to remove the rubber grommet that guides the hose through the firewall. The 2002 hose was just too large to fit in that tiny hole. 

 

Carnage: 

 

 

 

 

Well, I got this hose installed on the old heater valve. I plan on changing it out, but not yet. This is California. I don't even know what a heater is. I didn't take any photos of the hose installed, but I did use the correct BMW hose clamps. The second hose coming from the heater core going under the intake manifold needed replacing as well. Only problem is that the hose that Top End Performance supplied me with is about an inch too short when passing through the firewall to meet with the heater core. I rigged up another hose to work, but I don't like the end fitment. I'll have to come up with a better solution. I'll post photos of both a bit later. Or whenever I remember. 

 

 

 

 

I then went on to remove the studs that are in place for the stock fuel pump, and install the block off plate courtesy of Ireland Engineering. Very nice piece. 

 

Here is what I am working with:

 

See the two studs? They need to be removed. Only problem is that they are in there realllllyyy tight. I had a buddy working on one of his cars and he nonchalantly mentioned the double nut method. I've heard of removing studs this way, but never put it into practice myself. I'm actually pretty impressed at how well it worked. I'm glad to have learned that little trick for myself. 

 

Here is a photo with the two-nut method, about ready to remove the second stud. 

 

 

 

And finally, the block off plate installed:

 

It sure does look good! 

 

 

 

 

 

Like I said, not much done today. I plan on having a good day after easter. Until then, I can manage all the little stuff.

 

 

I'll leave you with these two photos. I used a ladder to take both, and I only fell once. Worth it. 

 

 

and 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope you enjoyed these updates. They'll only stop once I've finished.

[danco_]

Just a few small things today.

 

 

First was the heater box hoses. I didn't like how I left them yesterday, so I opted to redo one of them. 

 

With the single or dual sidedraft carburetors, you have to reroute the coolant line since there won't be coolant running to the downdraft intake manifold. The e21 cars solved this problem by adding a metal line that bolts to the block underneath the manifold, then connects directly to the heater box. 

 

What I've noticed is that the 2002 heater box and the 1600 have a few very important differences. First being the diameter of the hoses coming off of the heater box. 1600 hoses are smaller in diameter compared to the 2002 hoses. Next is the length of the metal line that extends behind the firewall and gives a solid foundation for the rubber hose. This metal line is longer on the 2002, which is better. The rubber hose supplied with the water coolant pipe kit was about an inch too short. 

 

Instead of go out and spend a day finding a hose long enough, with the correct contortions, I opted to correct this by making a metal extension (aluminum) to use as a hose extender. It's not pretty and creates more potential weak points in the cooling system, but I'd like to think that it will work. 

 

Here is what the hose looks like connecting to the heater box:

 

 

Again, not the prettiest and I'll replace it as soon as I do a bit more research, but for now it might work. 

 

Here is the hose carnage:

 

 

 

And here is the end goal. I was able to use the factory supplied hose and it all looks correct from this angle. I just hope it will all hold up the the high pressure coolant system. If I have a weak link, it will be visible very soon. 

 

Note the coolant hose to the back of the head, and the coolant hose connecting to the metal water neck under the intake manifold. 

 

 

 

 

 

Next up was wiring up the new 65A alternator. I followed a DIY article on the FAQ for upgrading the alternator, so I hope I have everything wired correctly. I know there is only two wires that I actually have to use, but even I can mess that up. 

 

I removed the black, blue, and brown wire from the original alternator connector. I will only need the thick red wire and the blue wire for the new Alternator, being as this e21 unit is internally regulated, unlike the 1600/2002's externally regulated system.

 

 

I then taped off the other two wires together, and plugged the red wire to the B+ terminal and the blue wire the the D+ terminal, as instructed. I hope I plugged the blue wire into the D+ terminal at least. There are two terminals very close to one another on the back of the alternator and the D+ terminal can be mistaken for either. I know I taped together the Black and Brown wires, but I figured that was ok since they both go to the original external regulator, which was removed.

 

Does this look correct? Please chime in and correct me if I plugged the blue wire into the incorrect terminal. The last thing I need is an explosion or fire. 

 

Correct?

 

 

 

 

Removed the external voltage regulator and tucked the plug away. You never know, I may need it again some day. 

 

 

 

I'll give the engine bay a deep scrub soon. I half assed this swap. I should have at least painted the engine bay and replaced the firewall insulation pad. Maybe this is a reason to pull the engine and give her a nice paint job down the road a bit.

 

 

I have no intention of running the battery in the engine bay, so out the battery tray goes...again. This will require me to reroute the power cable to the rear seat, where my new 18lb "Big Crank" AGM battery will live. I'm still researching how you guys did this. I want to do it correctly. I have to look into this. Good news is that I had an e30 battery cable laying around. Well, it was given to me. So that half is covered. 

 

Removable Battery Tray:

 

 

E30 Battery Cable: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll have to wire up a few things, then attach the carb and see what kind of clearance I have. Slowly, one day at a time I'll have all of these things completed. 

 

 

I bought a big box of Brad Penn 20w50 Oil for the engine. Of the few people I have spoken with, they all recommend this blend of oil for the little m10. I have no reason to doubt them.

 

 

 

 

Does anyone have a solution for this? My antenna's support bracket broke. I'd like to keep it mounted to the car, but I don't have the support bracket. I think this was a dealer installed option, not OEM. Any one have insight where I may be able to find this piece? 

 

 

 

 

That's all I have for now.

[ezlnh8u]

Eating popcorn.....want more updates!!! This inspired me and purchased a 76 02.

[danco_]

Today was "Test fit the carb Day"

 

I wanted to snap a quick photo of what the internals look like. I currently have no idea how carbs work and I need to change that. I know there is reading material on carbs. I'm going to have to buy that book.

 

 

While I had the stock air horn tubes installed, I wanted to see what kind of fitment I had and what sort of clearance to the brake booster I was working with. Maybe the 1600 had a slightly higher-placed brake booster than the 2002, because I had less than 1/4" of clearance with the stock horns with the dinky filters attached. See photo below: 

 

Knowing that the engine will flex under load and move around a bit, this wasn't an acceptable clearance. I then decided to try the other filter I had for this carb. 

 

The dome filter was option two, and it wasn't much better than option one. In fact, it was significantly worse. The bolt holes didn't align at all (Filter housing to carb) so I spend 5 minutes on the drill press enlargening the holes and massaging them a bit. After I had the filter housing fitted to the carb, I go in for a test fit. IT DIDN'T FIT. The carb wouldn't even slide onto the intake mani studs. 

 

I was stumped. Why the hell would I buy a dome filter that won't even work for my application? I came up with the bright idea to rotate the filter 180 degrees, redrill new holes, and try again. This would only work (in theory) because the filter housing hangs about 3/4" lower than the top overhang. 

 

This is the filter in it's original and correct orientation:

 

Notice how much more it overhangs below the carb when compared to the overhang on the top. Sorry if I'm wording this incorrectly, my brain doesn't want to come up with better adjectives today.

 

Then I redrilled and flipped the filter housing:

 

Muuuuccchhhh better. Loads more clearance! The filter housing looks like swiss cheese now, but it will all be hidden.

 

 

 

I also went out and purchased 2' of vacuum hose (from the brake booster to the intake manifold) and rerouted the hose to work with my set up. I also attached the gas line. It's looking more and more complete these days.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow, I'll put some time into the batter cable relocation. If my research and theories pan out, I will reroute the starter cables to come from the firewall side, as will the alternator wiring. I hope to attach a junction box on the firewall somewhere, and route the e30 battery cable through the car somewhere and end up under the driver's side rear seat. Or passenger. I'll have to take a better look and make a decision. 

 

 

Stay tuned.

[danco_]

A few small updates?

 

 

I am pretty set on removing the battery from the engine bay, and relocating it under the rear seat. The way I see it, nothing happens under the rear seat anyways. 

 

In order to do this, I need to change some wires around and reroute them. A tried and true solution is the e30 battery junction box paired with the long e30 battery cable.

 

This is what remains of the original battery cable wiring:

 

 

 

I actually visited a junk yard last week to find the remaining parts needed to complete this. I used to like junk yards, now I don't like junk yards. This is what a stock e30 battery junction box looks like: 

 

I want to remove this one, clean it up, and relocate it right above the brake booster. There is plenty of room there and easy accessibility if things need to change.

 

Junction Box real estate: 

 

 

 

Well, I started by cutting the alternator wiring and moving it to the rear. At the same time, I completely removed the original alternator plug, along with the external voltage regulator plug. All wiring that wasn't being used was removed:

 

The blue wire goes to the D+ terminal, the red wire goes to the B+ terminal, coming straight from the new junction box.

 

 

 

I also removed the old friction tape to pull back the other two red wires that also attached directly to the battery. I'm not sure what they do, but I know they are important. They will be rerouted to the junction box as well. The old friction tape was falling apart anyways.

 

 

 

Next, I began the battery cable routing. I figured that I want to feed the cable directly below the junction box, so I found a suitable location. Don't know how others rerouted their cables, but I figured this location will do. Thus began the first hole to be drilled. I'm not crazy about drilling holes into old cars, but the pros outweighed the cons in this situation. 

 

I had to widen the hole a few times to adequately insert a rubber grommet that would protect the new battery cable's sheathing. I don't want to ground that wire. No sir. The rubber grommet came from an e30 wiring harness I had laying around. I found a piece that might work, and ultimately made it work. I am by no means a perfectionist or an engineer. I'm probably one level above your standard "back yard mechanic".

 

New rubber isolator grommet thing: 

 

 

Cable tested and installed: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alright, back to the the junction box install. Here is what a complete e30 junction box looks like: 

 

 

 

 

I made a mistake when drilling the two holes for mounting points. I made the holes large enough to have the junction box sit flush with the firewall piece. It's hard to explain, but I made things harder than they have to be. Sometimes, I create problems for myself. This is one of those times. Not to worry. I fabbed up a set of rubber grommets that allowed for larger washers to compensate and fix the problem. A little rough, but it works well.

 

First off, the much-too-large holes that I drilled: 

 

they look a bit offset, but I think it was just the camera angle. They came out pretty good.

 

And here are those rough rubber grommets that I whipped up from old suspension bushings:

 

 

Then I attached all the terminals to the main starter wire. Everything went together nicely, but I will likely redo and reroute the blue wire. 

 

 

With the cover installed: 

 

 

 

 

All done to house this little 18lb bundle of joy. The wheels behind are e36 fitment Dinan wheels in 17". This is a small battery. It should do the trick considering it's already bigger than many other AGM battery guys are running. If it proves to be inadequate, I'll buy another and wire it up in parallel. Is all of this worth it? Who knows anymore.

 

Battery:

 

 

 

 

 

I finally found a v-belt that fits over the new Ireland Engineering lightweight racing alternator pulley. The belt specs are 10mm x 915mm. If you want more tensioning adjustability, I'd suggest a 920mm belt. 

 

 

 

 

And another artsy shot taken with the Iphone 5:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also drove up to Sacramento to spend time with the family for Easter. I made a quick stop to Auto Heaven/CATuned and grabbed my set of 13" Wilwood BBK. They will be going on next week.

 

 

 

 

 

I still haven't finished the routing of the battery cable inside the cabin, but I'll get to it some day.

[danco_]

Updates.

 

 

I started working on the electric fan mounting and ran into a few issues. I ended up drilling two holes in the top part of the radiator support for the top mounting points on the fan. These two holes and the fasteners are covered by the new radiator. The bottom mounting on the fan was a bit more difficult. I quickly whipped up a few zip ties to get an idea of how it will sit against the radiator. I then removed them and fitted a more permanent solution. 

 

 

How it sits against the radiator. There is about 1/8" - 1/2" space between the fan and the radiator. I'll add a fan shroud if I have cooling issues. Hopefully I don't, though.

 

 

 

 

I had to drill MORE holes just to mount the IE aluminum radiator. It was larger than the stock rad and none of the mounting holes lined up very well. Not very happy about that, but there is no turning back now. I fabbed up a few 1/2" rubber bushings to sit between the radiator and the support. I didn't want the aluminum radiator directly against the support. It just seemed right.

 

 

I then decided the clean the hoses and hose clamps. I'm removing as many non-BMW clamps as I can.

 

 

 

Remember this photo from a few months ago? It's how I received the car:

 

 

 

This is what it looks like as of this morning:

 

 

 

 

 

I wanted to wire up the electric fan using IE's diagram but after a quick conversation with Andrew and Jeremy at IE, they suggested that I finish up the battery relocation before I start on the fan wiring. This way I can correctly find a switched 12V power source. Fair enough. 

 

These wires will have to wait until tomorrow: 

 

 

 

 

 

So I got back to the battery relocation project. 

 

 

See that big wire down there? As much as I want to leave it, I can't. 

 

 

 

Here is a better example of the e30 battery cable:

 

 

 

 

 

I used a few e39 parts to route the battery cable and make it fit nicely and all the cracks and crevices. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reading a few of the project threads on battery relocation, it was apparent that I need some sort of system that allowed the battery to be tied down and free of movement. This led me to purchase some aluminum.

 

 

I turned the aluminum bar into this:

 

 

and here it is, nestled in it's new home:

 

 

and with the seat back in, you'd never know anything is back there! 

 

 

 

I turned the key enough to allow switched power to be activated. I tested the hazards, and blinkers, all of which worked correctly. Also, nothing caught on fire which was also a good sign. Good. 

 

 

And this is what I end with. Bad lighting, but you get the point.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sorry for the lack of words, I'm wiped out from being cooped up all day, then decided to surf, which doubled wiped me out. I'm toast.

 

 

Til next time.

[M3M3]

you probably know that your elec rad fan blades are on backwards....at least in the pics you posted they are.  they are installed as if the fan was to be a puller.  you are using it as a pusher.  need to pop the clip on the back of the fan, pull blades off motor, flip it, and reinstall on motor.

Edited April 25, 2014 by mlytle

[danco_]

A few things.

 

 

I only spent a few hours at the office today. And by office, I mean the warehouse where the 1600 is. 

 

 

First, I wanted to finalize the electric fan wiring. Before I did so, I checked polarity to the wires on the fan. In order for the fan to act as a pusher, the black wire is the power wire, and the blue wire acts as the ground.

 

 

 

I went through all my electrical stuff, and realized that I was inadequately prepared for this task. I had no crimpers, male or female connectors for 14 AWG or 16 AWG wiring. So I ran down to the local hardware store and bought a few things. It's awesome what a good set of crimpers can do.

 

 

 

Some more wiring: 

 

 

 

How it will all sit. I'm sick of drilling holes into this car. No more holes. I think this was a good location for the relay. All wires are/will be friction taped to keep the subtle look.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had to leave early, but I dropped off these seats and new seat skins to a little run-down shop in Long Beach. If I didn't know any better, I'd think I was in Tijuana. It's that bad.

 

 

and 

 

 

 

 

I'm hoping everything turns out like this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The upholstery guy only asked for $200 to reskin the seats and rebuild one of the side bolsters on the driver's side seat. I'm not sure what to expect yet. Fingers crossed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still no word on those headers.

[heist]

I love this. I'm going to have to come and check it out soon. 

[danco_]

you probably know that your elec rad fan blades are on backwards....at least in the pics you posted they are.  they are installed as if the fan was to be a puller.  you are using it as a pusher.  need to pop the clip on the back of the fan, pull blades off motor, flip it, and reinstall on motor.

 

This is the fan I purchased: http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-cooling/fan12kit.html

 

From my understanding, this fan can be configured as a pusher or puller by reversing the wiring  at the fan. If I wired it correctly (which I think I did, and then tested), it was blowing air through the radiator.

 

I love this. I'm going to have to come and check it out soon. 

 

 

2 weeks man! Maybe less if these damn headers ever make it to California. 

[M3M3]

This is the fan I purchased: http://www.iemotorsp...g/fan12kit.html   From my understanding, this fan can be configured as a pusher or puller by reversing the wiring  at the fan. If I wired it correctly (which I think I did, and then tested), it was blowing air through the radiator.

 

yes...the configuration process includes flipping the fan blade so that the "knee" or "curve" in the fan blade faces the direction the fan is spinning in.....not reversing the wiring. 

[danco_]

yes...the configuration process includes flipping the fan blade so that the "knee" or "curve" in the fan blade faces the direction the fan is spinning in.....not reversing the wiring. 

I spoke to IE about this. What you are saying is correct, but they say the fan moves enough air in it's current configuration, that flipping the fan around won't be necessary. We'll see how it holds up in this Long Beach heat.

New Updates: 

 

I finished up one side of the BBK. I will likely finish up the other side Friday, pending a package from IE. There was a mix up but Andrew jumped on it right away. Great guy. 

 

 

 

Old brakes in their entirety. Looking at them now, it's clear that these are dual-circuit calipers when I originally thought that the 1600 had the single-line system. I'm proven wrong every single day.

 

 

 

 

Removing the calipers from the rotor, the rotor/hub from the spindle was a pretty simple process. Here is a shot of a cleaned spindle, with the dirty backing plates. I wanted to keep the backing plates, but that would require modification to fit, and actually hurt the general design of the vented rotors. The rotors pull air from the center, and pass through to be released from the outside. Pretty common brake cooling system, but these rotors are from a 1977(?) e21 car. So, no backing plates.

 

 

 

Here is a shot of the inner race being pressed in. The inner bearing seats up against the race. It's very important that this pieces seats correctly inside of the new hub.

 

 

 

I then applied liberal amount is bearing grease, and pressed in the dust shield on the inner side of the hub. I got as much grease into the dust shield channel before installation, as instructed by Marshall. Everything went in pretty smooth. 

 

 

 

And then it was time to install the new hub onto the cleaned spindle, now missing the backing plate. I did some cleaning of the strut housing unit beforehand. Nothing crazy, just a bunch of degreasing. 

 

You'll also notice new Motorsport Hardware studs. I ran by Ryan Castro's house last night and picked up a new stud/nut kit and 5mm spacers. I ended up using only 8 studs out of all that I purchased from Ryan. 

 

Install: 

 

Motorsport Hardware: 

 

And here is everything bolted up. After this photo was taken, I removed the current brake lines and installed the single braided steel like. When I change out the Master Cylinder, I will have to delete one brake line on each side of the front brake systems, since this is a single line caliper. 

 

 

I butchered the dust caps pretty bad. They can always be replaced. 

 

 

 

I snapped this shot to give me a good idea of wheel clearance on these new brakes. I've heard many horror stories of not being able to fit Minilite wheels with BBKs, but this specific casting didn't seem to have any issues. 

 

Here is that photo I mentioned: 

 

And here it is, all bolted up. I'm so glad I didn't have to use spacers to make this all fit. I already have to roll and slightly pull the front fenders just to make the 205s fit: 

 

Everything spins freely and smoothly. Still have a bunch of things to do, but I'm still killing time, waiting on those headers. The headers situation is really starting to piss me off.

[danco_]

Nothing special today, but I did change out the brake master cylinder. Because the front calipers are a single-line system, I had to remove two hardlines from the front. 

 

Removed: 

 

New mc. I have to find the correct size nipple things that go into the master cylinder from the hoses (coming from the reservoir). I wasn't aware that they were different sizes. I'll check realoem to see what an e21 typically ran. Just another obstacle. ANOTHER. 

 

 

 

This is the extent of the rust on the car. Believe me, I've searched. 

 

 

 

 

And I picked up the seats today. They look pretty good. I'm hoping the heat will shrink the vinyl fabric a bit more and they will have less creasing around the edges. Even so, they are much better than before. I should probably sell them. Or save them for another 02.

 

 

Backside: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still waiting on parts from IE. They should be here soon. Oh and those headers, wherever they are.