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M10 Flywheel And Clutch Should Work With G240?


DaveBMX

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Gaaaa!   Hook up the starter, and make sure it works, because if it doesn't, that'll be the place it shows up.

Otherwise, it's dimensionally close enough...

 

The E36 fix for the dual mass flywheel involves a solid flywheel out of an

M20 powered E30.  I was under the (mis?) apprehension that the

M20/m42 flywheel was slightly different in diameter and also in gear pitch.

 

That said, I have an M42 starter on the 2002 race car, and while it doesn't stick quite far enough

into the bell housing, it works well enough.  That makes me think that the M10 flywheel is too shallow for the M42

block setup.

 

The transmission shouldn't care, as long as it doesn't physically hit anything. 

 

I'd completely mock it up on the floor first, INCLUDING getting the clutch to actuate, before I dropped it into the car.

 

The internet is full of opinions on this, and a lot of them don't agree with anything...

 

hth

 

t

Edited by TobyB

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Everything Toby said, plus make sure the flywheel hasn't locked the engine up. The backside tends to contact the bolts for the rear seal retainer. The fix is to use a thin shim b/t the flywheel and crankshaft flange.

 

Budweiser...It's not just for breakfast anymore.

Avatar photo courtesy K. Kreeger, my2002tii.com ©

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Ok cool guys thats the next step. however i was avoiding it as the engine is mounted to the engine stand on the intake side as i couldnt get it to line up on the exhaust side so cant get the starter in so i will have to fiddle with that first! :wacko: well if i get this to work i will definately make a how to for it as i have found exactly what you have said Toby in that people say its possible but no definitive evidence. on the clearance issue Skipsfcr i have about 1-2mm from the cover bolts and i havent torqued them down. i do have the spacer off the m42 flywheel that i can use but was thinking of just slimming down the cover bolt heads instead a little as i already have a little space? Also fingers crossed ring gears should be same diameter now as i have fitted the m42 gear to the m10 flywheel by carefully measuring and removing 2 mm off the inside of the gear with a rotary tool and then banged it on hard with a mallet. heres a few photos with the side by side clutch height comparison and a photo of the clearance.

 

kind regards

 

and as ever guys many thanks for your excellent help!

 

Dave

 

 

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urgh headaches begin... Flywheel is on fine, clutch on fine, gearbox on but then i realise that only 4 of the bolt holes line up with the m44 block. they are relatively well spaced and its the big bolts so will that be ok holding it together? i could possibly drill and tap the block along the bottom where the gearbox holes are? or even looks like in some places i could drill right through and use nuts and bolts?

 

 

Then theres thes starter! measured the starter from the contact surface to the far edge of the gear and its 2cm, then measured the fitting surface of the gearbox to the nearest edge of the flwheel ring gear....2cm. so basically the flywheel is 2cm too far from the gear on the starter. dont really know what to do on that one except try modify the starter or look at other starters.

 

EDIT actually does the starter gear whiz out when the car starts and then retract?? if so then thats the reason im 2cm short!

 

now where flywheel ring gear is now looks to be exactly where it was originally with the dual mass only difference being i am using the getrag 240 not the 250 that came attached so will check that the starter area isnt recessed on the 250. im thinking m42 starters have a longer gear!

 

So if anyone fancies measuring one let me know!

 

I could use the getrag 250 that came with the m44 but its pretty big compared to the 240 and also ive not heard of anyone using one in an 02, also it has weird gear ratios with a 1.00 fith gear which is the same as my m10 4 speed! i read something about the e36 running very long final drives in the diff so that the 250 worked like a conventional 5 speed.

 

I've not even tried to get the clutch to activate yet!

 

 

regards

 

Dave

Edited by DaveBMX
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If the 2 top bolts (8mm?) and bottom (10mm?  12?) make it, you're good.

If it was easy, I'd tap the others.  If it was hard, I would not.  FWIW.

 

Yeah, this is what I thought you might find  with the flywheels.  I tried

mixing and matching when I messed around with aftermarket clutches,

and learned enough to know it was going to be non- trivial.

 

Try this- apply 12v to the starter terminal, and let the pinion pop out.

Then you'll be able to see what's going to happen when you hit the 

starter.  What I fear's going to happen is that the pinion is going

to pop  out too far, and the back of the overrun clutch will get chewed

up by the ring gear.  But if it lines itself up properly, and engages to the

right tooth depth (you can tell by looking) you're golden.  It's not a fantastic

mesh from the factory, so some slop's normal.

 

The transmission shouldn't make any difference to the starter, should it?

As long as the spacer plate's the same, and the trans aligns to it, then

it's in the same place....

(Am I remembering right that there is no cast ring on the M42 like there is on the M10?)

 

You'll get it eventually.

Oh, if you're the least bit unsure about the ring gear staying on the

flywheel, a few tack welds are in order.  That works well, from my 

experience with the Tilton clutch.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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hey thanks Toby i thought about welding the ring gear if it slips but didnt know if it was safe! thanks for the confirmation  :lol:  i will run through what you just said first thing tomorrow and report back!

 

 

kind regards

 

Dave

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