Squeeling Metallic Noise... No Bueno

[c.d.iesel]

....then it's back to the

"...now that I think about it,

pilot bearing is a possibility?

wouldn't it receive oil from

the crankcase? .." as already said = NO

it's outside of the crankcase at the end of

the crankshaft. only gets lubed once on assembly.

you remove the transmission to replace it.

plenty of back-threads here to read if you " Site Search "

for pilot bearing. it will squeal no matter if the car is in motion

or not, clutch in or out, usually more so when very cold.

[Rocan]

Thanks for the help C.D. And others.

I'll be bringing it to my local mechanic sometime this week (If only I had a dang garage!).

While I'm in there, what else needs doing?

Pilot bearing (any way to find which type I have without opening? Car is 76 but the block is a 73, no idea about the rest of it)

Throwout bearing

Check clutch for wear

Rear main seal

Front trans seal (not that my trans leaks at all, and I just filled it with fresh fluid).

Replace guibo and bearing

What am I missing? Any gaskets, or anything odd? Is the clutch/trans alignment tool specific only to m10 and our trans or is it the same used on other cars (If mechanic doesn't have alignment tool, I'll buy one)

Thanks everyone.

[c.d.iesel]

Wait till the trans is out and the old parts inspected before ordering

1973 and 1976 pilot bearings are the same -

but you need a bearing 12x21 (551), cover plate (345),

felt seal (601), and sleeve (750) order from BLUNT

here and he'll set you up - but inspect whats in there now-

no one can be right without looking first because as we all

know - 40 years, PO's, hamfisted bad people find ways

of making things fit that dont belong -

clutch alignment tool is 'standard' to many 'import cars

and not a problem for a 'good' technician

we would like photos of the clutch and flywheel

when out on the bench

plan on new clutch friction disk, pressure plate,

and throw-out bearing

add: rear crank seal and end plate gasket

guibo, trans mount, trans exhaust support bracket

with correct washer/insulators

good time to replace the idler bearings with the gearbox out of the way, and motor mounts for the same reason

besure 'someone' removes the distributor cap & rotor,

and rear carb/firewall linkage

during all this surgery

[Guest_anonymous]

Now that you're being prepped for surgery, better get a good anesthesiologist. Good luck. keep posted.

Daron

[Rocan]

Subframe was out earlier this month and got properly cleaned, most everything front of the transmission is cleaned, replaced, or new (except for the bottom end) and just went ford edis/megajolt so no distributor for them to break. Most mounts are new, but shift linkage needs doing. Thanks for the reminder on the throttle linkage. I'll definitely get some pictures when it is all out.

[c.d.iesel]

-= Bueno =-

[Rocan]

So all parts have arrived (including both types of crank seal and both types of pilot bearing, I took a chance and ordered a 215mm sachs clutch since the shop doesn't have the space to put it up and drop trans without parts available to put back into it).

Now I'm just compiling a list of everything the shop techs need to know to do everything properly. I've got a list of torque values for them as well as printed schematics of how it all goes together just for their reference. All parts labeled as well to make their lives easier (really good guys in the shop, so I figured I'll make it an easy job for them).

c.d.iesel; I remember a post you made recently where you showed a specific area that needs to be greased upon reassembly; was it the inside of the guibo where the driveshaft goes through?

I'll be sure to get pictures of everything out on the bench. I can't wait to see whats in there, and I really can't wait to have my baby back on the road!