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Kidasters

Shift Console Repair

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A few months ago when I was driving the 2002, I noticed that the small console the shift boot is mounted to (in front of the frigiking A/C system) was loose. I knew why. When I re-did the carpet a few years ago, I noticed that the wood insert inside of the small console was cracked, and had been glued multiple times. I figured it gave up the ghost again.

I had some time today, so I pulled the shfit knob and boot off, and pulled the small console out. Yep - the small plywood insert had again broken. Enough.

I decided to pull it out completely. Working carefully with a sharp knife, I was able to chisel away all of the old epoxy and get the two pieces out.

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You can see - it's just plywood that was glued into the console:

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And the inside of the console is a little worse for wear.

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I took the wood, and used it as a pattern on some sheetmetal that I had in the garage.

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And got a 3" hole saw from ACE hardware. Cut the hole, and rough cut the piece out of the sheet metal. Used my bench grinder to finish it off. Finally - painted it with Rustoleum "Rust Converter" paint.

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When its dry, I'll coat the entire bottom of it with 3200 psi epoxy, and screw it back into place. That should do the trick - I hope.

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and there never was any plywood at the bottom--and I got mine in '78. I suspect a PO did the plywood trick. So as to understand what you're doing...the piece of sheet metal you made will sandwich the plastic console bottom between it and the tunnel housing, held in place with the original sheet metal screws...am I right? Let us know how it works out...

Breaking the bottom flange of that Frigiking shift surround piece is very common, and I'm interested to know how your fix works out. May want to do the same thing myself.

BTW, the trailing flat surface of that surround is a perfect place to mount rocker switches for fog lights, driving lights etc.

cheers

mike

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Could be - the bottom of mine is in bad shape. Yep - I squirted "mix on the fly" 5 minute epoxy all over the bottom of my new piece, and let it dry for two hours. Where the bottom of my piece was broken, especially around the screw holes, I made sure to clamp the metal to the plastic, hoping for good bond. Around the bottom of the console piece, where there were lots of cracks, I also applied additional epoxy. It's hidden, so no need to be pretty. Then - just screwed it back in place with the sheet metal screws and some lock washers.

It's in right now, but the front sheet metal screw didn't bite very well. I'll probably pull it apart and find some different sheet metal screws to ensure it's down well. But, it's already better. And - the metal won't split like the plywood did.

If this doesn't work, I have plan B in my mind. I'll build the same thing, but with 4 long tabs on it. Then, I'll bend those up on the outside of the piece, and attach them with the screws that also hold the metal ring that the shift boot grabs onto. And probably use even more epoxy.

This is another NLA part it would be nice to have again.

Ken

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