Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

chassis and body restoration, what works? what doesnt?


nickstulz

Recommended Posts

hello all,

im wondering who's or what products are best for body and chassis preservation.

what types of practices are best for undercoating and pan lining?

its time to get the rust off my car. i plan to attack the underside and wheel wells first. i only want to do this once.

ive used chassis saver on my truck frame(total frame off job), that stuff isnt that great. the rust came right through. it didnt encapsulate for crap. i washed the heck out of the frame, took all the proper prep steps.

contemplating POR, ive cruised over 3m/duponts products, and had a peek at eastwood.

so im just wondering about some feedback and advice on whats worked and not worked for folks here in the past.

and some application do's and donts.

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think all the products you mention work well. Eastwood has a great selection and I find some of their frame paints to be much better than my past experiences with others. Naturally, if you have a spray gun/compressor there are some great products, but out of a can, Eastwood has some good stuff.

As for prep, I 2nd and 3rd that. There are many places in the 02 for rust to hide. I had the opportunity to attend a tech session at Mid-America where the gentlemen was explaining the hollow area between the wheel well in the rear and the piece you see in the trunk. I didn't think it was hollow. SO, I didn't prep that area and now have a project to do that.

There should be many suggestions, but I can say, clean it and soak the seams.

74 2002 Restore/Upgrade Project - M2

08 Alpina B7

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

id prefer to use my spray guns but spray cans are fine for little bits and touch ups.

i like the idea of rust encapsulators, chemically bonded to Fe2O3 vs Fe3 seems like a better course of action. iron has to rust as soon as it comes in contact with oxygen, thats chemistry, paints have chemical compositions that cater to the fact that pure clean iron is impossible to achieve. sealing the oxygen out is the only way to keep the iron from rusting any further and decomposing. a rusty surface coverd in a form of paint is just fine as long as the rust cannot is prohibited from further exposure to O2. it cannot get worse.

my experience with chassis saver was that it went on thick, looked great, and 2 months later rust appeared. so it totally failed to seal, its quite well bonded as it doesnt really want to scrape off and i can always put more on it, right over the rust, as long as i scuff the surface. and i plan to do just that, but id like to avoid rework on my bmw's.

so that is the reason for this thread. i mean i am looking at a 40 year old paint job here and all in all the steel is quite nice. the tub is super solid. id like to keep it that way. so if its not broke why fix it, the only dilema is that the cars were stamped assembled and painted in a matter of a day, this is like a week to a month or year long process for the rest of us in the real non assembly line world.

im skeptical about eastwood, theyve got some expensive paint products but their tools are straight outta harbor freight and norhtern tools, which are not all that bad, i own plenty of them, but it makes me leary as to their chemical quality, reguard less of what the people say about the products on the website. could be propaganda.

more input fellas!

what works what doesnt?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do not considder chemicals if you want a lasting job.

Cut out rust, weld in new metal, sand/blast clean, etch prime, and paint.

That is the only type of work I would guarantee.

Regards

Jacques

'71 2002 Malaga, fun weekender

'70 2002ti Colorado, Restoration/money pit

'74 2002 turbo in my dreams, sideways...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Nick!

I have seen your question about body and chassis rust prevent jus now. The best thing you can do is POR15. www.por15.com I am a dealer of this products in Austira. I did allready several cars with it and also my 2002 last month.

It is the hardest in surface but still flexible (springs) you can buy. Try it.

best regards

Kari

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...