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nickstulz

chassis and body restoration, what works? what doesnt?

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hello all,

im wondering who's or what products are best for body and chassis preservation.

what types of practices are best for undercoating and pan lining?

its time to get the rust off my car. i plan to attack the underside and wheel wells first. i only want to do this once.

ive used chassis saver on my truck frame(total frame off job), that stuff isnt that great. the rust came right through. it didnt encapsulate for crap. i washed the heck out of the frame, took all the proper prep steps.

contemplating POR, ive cruised over 3m/duponts products, and had a peek at eastwood.

so im just wondering about some feedback and advice on whats worked and not worked for folks here in the past.

and some application do's and donts.

cheers

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I think all the products you mention work well. Eastwood has a great selection and I find some of their frame paints to be much better than my past experiences with others. Naturally, if you have a spray gun/compressor there are some great products, but out of a can, Eastwood has some good stuff.

As for prep, I 2nd and 3rd that. There are many places in the 02 for rust to hide. I had the opportunity to attend a tech session at Mid-America where the gentlemen was explaining the hollow area between the wheel well in the rear and the piece you see in the trunk. I didn't think it was hollow. SO, I didn't prep that area and now have a project to do that.

There should be many suggestions, but I can say, clean it and soak the seams.

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id prefer to use my spray guns but spray cans are fine for little bits and touch ups.

i like the idea of rust encapsulators, chemically bonded to Fe2O3 vs Fe3 seems like a better course of action. iron has to rust as soon as it comes in contact with oxygen, thats chemistry, paints have chemical compositions that cater to the fact that pure clean iron is impossible to achieve. sealing the oxygen out is the only way to keep the iron from rusting any further and decomposing. a rusty surface coverd in a form of paint is just fine as long as the rust cannot is prohibited from further exposure to O2. it cannot get worse.

my experience with chassis saver was that it went on thick, looked great, and 2 months later rust appeared. so it totally failed to seal, its quite well bonded as it doesnt really want to scrape off and i can always put more on it, right over the rust, as long as i scuff the surface. and i plan to do just that, but id like to avoid rework on my bmw's.

so that is the reason for this thread. i mean i am looking at a 40 year old paint job here and all in all the steel is quite nice. the tub is super solid. id like to keep it that way. so if its not broke why fix it, the only dilema is that the cars were stamped assembled and painted in a matter of a day, this is like a week to a month or year long process for the rest of us in the real non assembly line world.

im skeptical about eastwood, theyve got some expensive paint products but their tools are straight outta harbor freight and norhtern tools, which are not all that bad, i own plenty of them, but it makes me leary as to their chemical quality, reguard less of what the people say about the products on the website. could be propaganda.

more input fellas!

what works what doesnt?

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I've used Eastwood's rust encasulator on battery box & a couple of other places on an '02 I used to own.

I had the car for several years after using the product & it worked well.

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Do not considder chemicals if you want a lasting job.

Cut out rust, weld in new metal, sand/blast clean, etch prime, and paint.

That is the only type of work I would guarantee.

Regards

Jacques

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Hi Nick!

I have seen your question about body and chassis rust prevent jus now. The best thing you can do is POR15. www.por15.com I am a dealer of this products in Austira. I did allready several cars with it and also my 2002 last month.

It is the hardest in surface but still flexible (springs) you can buy. Try it.

best regards

Kari

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