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Running Poorly – Need Ideas


walter_middie

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I've put my wires on wrong before... Gaped correctly at both the points and the plugs? You're welcome to borrow a coil or two of mine. I've got 4 or some crazy number like that... Coils can fail like you described. I just had a condenser go bad on a mower and it sparked but no running... Your timing is correct right?

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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Guest Anonymous

make sure your wires are on the correct plugs .... firing order is important! I wouldn't fret about your low ohmic readings on the coil. Your primary is aceptable, your lower readings on the secondary mean that it is more like a standard coil and not a high output coil. At least your arent shorted or open on either one.

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Are you certain that you installed the distributor correctly?

Yes, I'm sure I got the distributor in correctly. I put it in with the flywheel mark showing, and the distributor orientation close to where I took it out. With my wife working the starter, I timed it at 5 deg BTDC with my dial advance timing light.

Actually, a vacuum leak sounds right to me. This all started with running rough at idle only. I looked for a vacuum leak and could not find one. Then the problem got worse quickly - like within a day. Then it would not start at all. The PO removed the EGR system, and I think I'll take a closer look at what he did to ensure all the vacuum ports in the intake manifold are plugged.

Rex - 1976 BMW 2002

2003 BMW M3

1969 BMW R69S

1979 Yamaha RD400 Daytona Special

1975 Porsche 911s

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Are you certain that you installed the distributor correctly?

Yes, I'm sure I got the distributor in correctly. I put it in with the flywheel mark showing, and the distributor orientation close to where I took it out. With my wife working the starter, I timed it at 5 deg BTDC with my dial advance timing light.

Actually, a vacuum leak sounds right to me. This all started with running rough at idle only. I looked for a vacuum leak and could not find one. Then the problem got worse quickly - like within a day. Then it would not start at all. The PO removed the EGR system, and I think I'll take a closer look at what he did to ensure all the vacuum ports in the intake manifold are plugged.

I just wanted to make sure that when you re-installed the distributor you had the engine at TDC firing for Cylinder#1 and not Cylinder#4.The mark on the flywheel will be seen at both these positions.As long as the engine was not rotated when the distributor was removed you should be in good shape.

Best regards.

1970 2002 Restoration Project

2002 330XI

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I just wanted to make sure that when you re-installed the distributor you had the engine at TDC firing for Cylinder#1 and not Cylinder#4.The mark on the flywheel will be seen at both these positions.As long as the engine was not rotated when the distributor was removed you should be in good shape.

Nemwrks,

Good point. I just went out and confirmed, flywheel mark up, rotor pointed at #1, and intake and exhaust rocker arms loose. I also double checked the firing order.

I did find an small vacuum leak where the EGR connected to the drivers side of the intake manifold. I'll fix this and report back.

Rex - 1976 BMW 2002

2003 BMW M3

1969 BMW R69S

1979 Yamaha RD400 Daytona Special

1975 Porsche 911s

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I fixed the small vacuum leak, and I got the engine to fire a couple of times. It sounded like it was only firing on one cylinder each time around.

I noticed that the secondary carb barrel was leaking gas into the intake. I removed the carb and the float level was where it should be. The secondary must have been syphoning gas. So I cleaned the air passages and tried it again. This time it sounded like it wanted to start, but it just would not catch and run. The intake looks like it has a puddle of gas in it again. So now I'm wondering if I have a carb problem.

Rex - 1976 BMW 2002

2003 BMW M3

1969 BMW R69S

1979 Yamaha RD400 Daytona Special

1975 Porsche 911s

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Have you rebuilt the carb? The pump diaphragms can be bad and drip oil into the intake on these cars.

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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I installed a build kit for the carb. It included a new acellerator pump but not a power valve, although the old one looked fine.

It almost starts, but just doesn't catch and run.

To me, the spark still looks weak. It's light yellow with a spare plug connected.

The carb seems like it is flooding the intake manifold.

I'm going to do a compression check next.

Rex - 1976 BMW 2002

2003 BMW M3

1969 BMW R69S

1979 Yamaha RD400 Daytona Special

1975 Porsche 911s

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Nathan,

I haven't tried another coil yet - I have one in my other car, but I'm not sure a CDI coil would be compatible with the BMW points ignition.

I did a compression test, here's my results:

Cylinder ____1 _ 2 _ 3 _ 4

Cold no oil __110 95 20 20

Cold with oil _110 95 20 20

I know the car has been smoking when downshifting, so I have thought the valves needed work. While I was doing the compression test on #3 and #4, I could hear air escaping out the carb. I checked the valve adjustment to ensure the intakes are not tight, and they were OK. I think I need to remove the head and get those valves checked.

The plugs were really fouled, so that may be why it won't start now, but I think I'm just fooling myself if I don't fix the valves now.

Chris B. recommended checking the compression early in this post - I should have listened.

Rex - 1976 BMW 2002

2003 BMW M3

1969 BMW R69S

1979 Yamaha RD400 Daytona Special

1975 Porsche 911s

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20 psi! on two cylinders !?!?! !!!

so - did this condition happen all of a sudden ?

did somoething get injested thru the carb that

might have lodged in the intake valves?

try pumping oil with an oil can into just those two

low cylinders - then try a reading again -

use ATF oil so it will burn off quickly if you do

get it running

back to your original # 1 post - iS IT POSSIBLE

that your daughter drove through a deep puddle?

injesting water that may have bent valves or worse?

that she is not sharing? did she let any 'friends'

try driving her car . . . . . . . . ?

any comments from the seller way back when about

'history' of this motor? letting on anything that might

raise its head if you drive the car and not attent to

something that they knew needs attention - LIKE VERY LOW COMPRESSION

HOW MANY MILES HAVE YOU/DAUGHTER PUT ON THE CAR SINCE YOU PURCHASED ?

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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2 cylinder right next to each other, might have a headgasket issue too... I can recommend a very good machine shop in Renton if you need machine work done. As always I got parts if you need some, just ask. If ya want some help doing it as well I'm more than glad to come up and help ya out!

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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