Driving light top support rods (custom)

[adawil2002]

Tired of Vern's 160s bouncing and subsequently having to be readjusted constantly.

Not happy with the 'off-the -shelf' options available, I made these brackets.

They are, from Lowes, .25 aluminum rod, 8- 1/4 x 20 nuts, 2- 1/4 rubber grommets (3/8 o.d.). Expanded the existing hole in the back of the 160s to 3/8 for the grommet. I had laying around, 2 lamp brackets with threaded hollow brass rods, had to drill one side so the horn bolt would fit through existing slot. I cut the threads on the aluminum rod with a 1/4 x 20 die, only what was needed. Then bent the angle to attach to the driving light and feed through the grill. I Galvanized (spray) the white metal part, then painted them black, attached to the horn bracket using the horn bolt.

100% solid, micro-adjustable and removable.

[c.d.iesel]

DAMN NICE JOB!

[DUDONLY]

I second that..... nice job Andrew. By the way I just got back from Maine, great state you got there !

Dudley

[SteveJ]

Very clean looking.

The bouncing, disco lights is always an issue. Almost every aftermarket light out there has provision for stabilizer rods, however, the rods are about as rare as hens teeth.

Your solution looks much cleaner than the one I did. The only drawback is that pulling the grilles is tougher.

[mcaden]

Nice work on Vern... no more jitters.

[adawil2002]

Very clean looking.

The bouncing, disco lights is always an issue. Almost every aftermarket light out there has provision for stabilizer rods, however, the rods are about as rare as hens teeth.

Your solution looks much cleaner than the one I did. The only drawback is that pulling the grilles is tougher.

Have to loosen the up/down light adjustment nut on the base of the light housing, remove the lens, remove the nut from the rod inside the light, then remove the grill. Took longer read this than it takes.