Having Problems Bleeding my brakes

[autoaloha]

Come on guys.... If the idle changes at all when you put your foot on the brake pedal, The booster diaphragm is bad. Simple as that.....

If the diaphragm is intact there is no air path into the intake manifold.

Has nothing to do with brake fluid. Although you probably needed to bleed it any way since the res. went dry.....

DaveG

after exhaustive research, this makes the most sense to me.

Is it possible that either the empty reservoir caused the diaphragm to rupture?

Either way, I now need to find a servo unit diaphragm, or the entire servo.

[Kidasters]

The booster is not easily rebuilt at home. I've actually never seen that done.

Look for a good used one. Or - Ireland Engineering sells re-built ones.

[jgerock]

To test your booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine OFF and hold it down (hopefully it will not go to the floor!). While holding the pedal down, start the engine and note what the pedal does. If it holds, the booster should be OK.

I have used the MityVac unit to bleed my brakes and while it does work OK, using a pressure-type bleeder is the best way to do it.

[hrg88]

While holding the pedal down, start the engine and note what the pedal does. If it holds, the booster should be OK.

Isn't that backwards? When you pump the pedal, you "use up" the vacuum and the pedal gets higher, then when you start the car with the pedal down, the new vacuum created will pull the pedal down more if the diaphragm is good.

[wobpb377]

This was happening on my '77 Rabbit back in the day. The Brake Booster was bad, unfortunatley I wasnt able to find any new ones anywhere for the '77. I sent the booster to a shop in Longbeach but for the life of me cant remember the name. I can see the shop but cant think of the name. Its funny though, as I was just driving by when i was there for work and saw it and stopped in. Later when I get back on island I sent the booster out and they rebuilt it. Maybe someone in the LBC can chime in and ghelp out with the name.

[Luis]

Come on guys.... If the idle changes at all when you put your foot on the brake pedal, The booster diaphragm is bad. Simple as that.....

If the diaphragm is intact there is no air path into the intake manifold.

Has nothing to do with brake fluid. Although you probably needed to bleed it any way since the res. went dry.....

DaveG

after exhaustive research, this makes the most sense to me.

Is it possible that either the empty reservoir caused the diaphragm to rupture?

Either way, I now need to find a servo unit diaphragm, or the entire servo.

I successfully repaired the booster in my 66 1800 but only after having a jig made out of steel to be able to open them and close them and even then it is a true PITA to open them. How much are replacement boosters for 2002's? It may be worth my time to repair them but depending on what is wrong with them, they may not be repairable. Diaphragms that are a close fit are available but not the rubber valves that go on the shaft. If those are shot, you're SOL. Best sure shot way of testing the diaphragm is to hook up your mighty vac to the booster and see if you can create a vacuum. But then again like someone said, you can brake without a booster. Just make sure you interrupt the flow of air into the engine or you're running that cylinder very lean.

[c.d.iesel]

your failed master cylinder wasted your vacuum booster

fluid drooling down the face of the booster

is a sure sign, and, when the fluid enters the booster and is

left long enough - it will destroy the vacuum seal

you depress the brake pedal which opens a path inside the failed booster

for your intake air leak - poor running / stalling

replace both

[jgerock]

While holding the pedal down, start the engine and note what the pedal does. If it holds, the booster should be OK.

Isn't that backwards? When you pump the pedal, you "use up" the vacuum and the pedal gets higher, then when you start the car with the pedal down, the new vacuum created will pull the pedal down more if the diaphragm is good.

I should have had McCartney's book out (but it was during lunch at work).

..start engine and the pedal should move down slightly. If the pedal moves upwards and pushes against your foot, there may be a problem associated with the servo (booster).

I used this method when I checked out another car and cannot recall if the pedal moved at all when starting the engine.

[autoaloha]

your failed master cylinder wasted your vacuum booster

fluid drooling down the face of the booster

is a sure sign, and, when the fluid enters the booster and is

left long enough - it will destroy the vacuum seal

you depress the brake pedal which opens a path inside the failed booster

for your intake air leak - poor running / stalling

replace both

what makes you think the MC failed? Brakes aren't spongy or soft. Car stops with lots of pressure.

I believe this is the servo. anyone know where I can get one, or have mine rebuilt? IE doesn't have them on their website and Blunttech said he didn't have a supplier or reman. source....

[Kidasters]

your failed master cylinder wasted your vacuum booster

fluid drooling down the face of the booster

is a sure sign, and, when the fluid enters the booster and is

left long enough - it will destroy the vacuum seal

you depress the brake pedal which opens a path inside the failed booster

for your intake air leak - poor running / stalling

replace both

what makes you think the MC failed? Brakes aren't spongy or soft. Car stops with lots of pressure.

I believe this is the servo. anyone know where I can get one, or have mine rebuilt? IE doesn't have them on their website and Blunttech said he didn't have a supplier or reman. source....

yes they do:

http://store.nexternal.com/ireland/brake-booster--2002-rebuilt-p657.aspx

here's one on e-bay from 2002 haus that looks pretty:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-2002-Brake-Booster-REBUILT-Powder-Coated-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2561359355QQitemZ160544691029QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[M3M3]

your failed master cylinder wasted your vacuum booster

fluid drooling down the face of the booster

is a sure sign, and, when the fluid enters the booster and is

left long enough - it will destroy the vacuum seal

you depress the brake pedal which opens a path inside the failed booster

for your intake air leak - poor running / stalling

replace both

what makes you think the MC failed? Brakes aren't spongy or soft. Car stops with lots of pressure.

I believe this is the servo. anyone know where I can get one, or have mine rebuilt? IE doesn't have them on their website and Blunttech said he didn't have a supplier or reman. source....

take your m/c off the booster. (you are going to have to do it to replace the booster anyway.) if there is brake fluid in the booster, your mc is shot, along with your booster. oh wait, i already said this in the second post way up at the top of this thread.....:-)

[Kidasters]

take your m/c off the booster. (you are going to have to do it to replace the booster anyway.) if there is brake fluid in the booster, your mc is shot, along with your booster. oh wait, i already said this in the second post way up at the top of this thread.....:-)

you can lead a horse to water.....

[M3M3]

as long as his car gets fixed and on the road, that is the goal. the rest is just entertainment!

[Guest Anonymous]

I use my mitivac all the time to PRESSURE bleed. It has an attachment that fits on top of the fluid reservoir - the same as the other pressure bleeders. With 18' of vinyl tube, I can work any nipple on the brakes and still pressurize the system as needed with a few hand contractions. Only problem is ensuring that the reservoir doesn't go empty!

Some people in Texas like to think they are capable of independent thought! (My vented rotors have worked fine for well over 15 years.) lol