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Ugh broke down


Cameron

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Got off the freeway on the way out with the girl and the car stalled at the first light, restarts fine. Pull up to the stop sign at starbucks, stalls again. Then finally as I'm coming up to my girlfriend's house, it stalls every time I drop to idle. I popped the hood and raise the idle up to 1500 to keep it running when I stop. I should have noticed it last week when my vacuum dropped from it's usual 21inHG to about 17inHG and the unsteady idle. My preliminary check shows that the #4 intake gasket is leaking. My distributer block on the rear of the head (not sure what to call that part) has been leaking a bit of oil for a while, and it's made it's way to the #4 intake runner.

Anyone have experience with oil leaking onto this gasket over the course of no more than 6 months and causing gasket failure? I rebuild the carb and replaced the intake gaskets around then, and cleaned up the area real nice then.

Tomorrow is my day off and I didn't have much planned anyway.

1971 BMW 2002

38/38 DGAS

292 cam

TEP 4-1 header

Ansa Sport muffler

Bilstein Sports

H/R Sports

Full Urethane

Bavaria Control Arms/02 Tension Rods

IE adjustable sways

15x7 König Rewind

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That's really strange I've had cars leak oil everywhere into every part and never had any problems even over long periods of time.

Does your car have any sort of aftermarket electronic distributor?

If not I would point out the carb as culprit.

I'm no longer affiliated with Maximillian Importing Company in any way, please address any questions directly to them.  -Thanks.

2002 "tii" coupe 1970
E21 320/6 2.7 Stroker 1981
E23 730 1978

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I had a similar issue once where the car would run like a bandit at higher rpm's, but absolutely shut off down near idle. Turns out the problem was with the ignition points that were closing down. Reseting the dwell, and/or replacing the points was the solution.

BMWCCA #545

1972 BMW 2002 Colorado "Traumcycle"

2000 BMW 323Ci

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I would check the idle jet in the carburetor for any debris clogging the jet and clean it out. If you find anything clogging the jet install a new fuel filter and check the gas tank for rust of debris.

If the carburetor has a electric idle jet solenoid make sure it is working also.

Certainly you must also fix your intake leak so you don't damage a piston from the engine running lean on that cylinder. and tackle the oil leak at the same time.

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If the carburetor has a electric idle jet solenoid make sure it is working also.

This actually sounds like the first thing you must check! Have some one turn the ignition on and listen to the "click" from the valve solenoid if its not there suspect a faulty valve. You can take it out and spray it with carb cleaner too.

Also as mentioned before if you have points and condenser check and replace if necessary.

Does the car stutter before shutting down or does it just turn off all of as sudden?

I'm no longer affiliated with Maximillian Importing Company in any way, please address any questions directly to them.  -Thanks.

2002 "tii" coupe 1970
E21 320/6 2.7 Stroker 1981
E23 730 1978

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Here's a link to the diagram on the distrubutor flange. Replacing the gasket is not a big job, just remember to get a new O-ring (item #15 in the diagram) installed.

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/114/Sedan/USA/2002-M10/LHD/A/1975/february/browse/engine_electrical_system/distributor-2/

As a tip, when removing the dizzy I check a mark so I can push in back in the same position. Then, I pull the dizzy out slowly and set it aside without moving the shaft at all. Hold the dizzy in the same position, using your mark, and slide it back in. You'll need to re-time, but you should be close, and avoid major timing problems like I've seen described on here over the years.

Bob Napier

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So I spent the day fixing the vacuum leak. Wasn't exactly what I was expecting - turns out the lower bolt on the #1 intake runner had backed out. Ended up putting on next gaskets and hardware, as well as resealed the distributer flange, adjusted the valves, changed cap and rotor, and plugs and wires. Back to a steady 22inHG on the vacuum gauge.

I had all new gaskets and washer for the distributer flange from a head gasket set I bought for spare gaskets on the 600 mile drive to bimmerfest next month. I'll just have to remember to replace those when I put in my next autohaus order.

I marked up the distributer and actually got it back in damn near dead on on the first try. I also didn't realize my aluminum flywheel doesn't have a timing mark on it, so I had to set it up close with my vacuum gauge, then tune via the butt dyno. I can't see the timing mark on the front cover, and I think it may not have one. Next time I have it up on my lift, I'll have to find it/clean it/highlight it for future use.

I also spent a bit of time cleaning all the gunk off the cylinder head, upper timing cover, manifold, and distributer flange. All that cleaning paid off, it makes a world of difference looks wise under the hood.

1971 BMW 2002

38/38 DGAS

292 cam

TEP 4-1 header

Ansa Sport muffler

Bilstein Sports

H/R Sports

Full Urethane

Bavaria Control Arms/02 Tension Rods

IE adjustable sways

15x7 König Rewind

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Share on other sites

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