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msperber

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Everything posted by msperber

  1. msperber
    Need your email or contact me at aflm@asheboro.com
  2. msperber
    hope all is well, still interested in buying the second unit, email me at aflm@asheboro.com.
  3. msperber
    Like the linkage and as mine is starting to show significant wear after 12 years I would like to have a spare, price is great could you email me the shipping address for payment how you would like it, paypal, check? Michael, aflm@asheboro.com
  4. msperber
    Can't help with the ride as I am in NC, but I have a 304 with twin mikunni's 3.91 final drive, the idle is lumpy on a cold start up, requiring some gas pedel modulation but after that really not bad at all, little power before 3000 rpm but after oh boy. I have been driving on the street for 4 years and love it. Hot idle about 1100 could never get it really good below so I live with it. The only real problem is hearing the radio for passengers, cause I love the sound motor. Yes I have a Stalh header with a 3" pipe to a big Echo muffler, no resonator.
  5. msperber
    Thats my car pictured above, it's a 75 with a highly modified setup of suspension and drivetrain. Yep has the carbs (mikunni) and I love then. I am in NC and the weather allows almost year round driving, the motor is a streetable 10.5 compression, 304 cam, twin mikunnis, 3.9 rear, mm close ratio 4 sp, 5 series front disc, 320I rear drum, 15" roto's and it also has a half cage, camber plates, billies all around. Yep stiff, but I love it and the weekend of the Vintage I put on over 1500 miles and would do it again tommorow, just not with my wife. The carbs can be serviced by Wolf Creek Racing, on the web, great folks, they cater to the nissan crowd but the carbs don't know that. Really nice folks. Miles per gallon can only be judged by the smiles it gives back.
  6. msperber
    I had Mark do my console, bought gauges, had multiple changes and he was great thru out the entire process, the console has worked great, the workmanship is terrific, anyone using him will be pleased.
  7. msperber
    My car is a similar setup, twin carbs, same make, 304 cam, aftermarket ign, check the basics first, did it just start doing this, was there any other mods that led up to this. I had a similar problem, your carbs have a cover plate that keeps the jets in place, but they still have room to shake loose, look good and double check the jets to see if they are tight. One loose jet on one carb can generate a condition as you discribed.
  8. msperber
    Thats the type of brace I would also like to put in my car, just don't like the idea of drilling into the towers, could you include me or just post a contact for the maker of that bar. aflm@asheboro.com
  9. msperber
    Had a similar problem with an ITB rabbit, high speed miss, changed everything, but could not repeat the condition unless we were at race speed. Turns out the master kill switch went bad, changed it problem went away. It took two years to find this silly problem and we lost a ton of races. Change this part yearly, 25$ insurance.
  10. msperber
    Hey whats the deal with jewed out, are you referring to something specific that I am not aware of?
  11. msperber
    Hi, I have a 1975 model with the big bumpers. Some say that the big bumper model was a perfect selection for me the way I drive. Anyway I can't find for the front bumper the black plastic insert on the rubber strip when the front plate in not used. I live in North Carolina, so no need and I only have one plug, would like to have both plugged properly. Help. Michael
  12. msperber
    Silly question, after all the reading on the site, I thought the proper valve adjustment was cold, .08-.06 Is it different with this cam, as that also is the cam I run in my o2. Just a question.
  13. msperber
    Hi, the beer comment certainly sounds like me and I was choping up a 74 with lots of rust. If I forgot to email you back its my fault, work and life got in the way sorry. I did pull a lot of stuff off the 74 what do you need and I will check. And it was fun cutting it up so others will continue. Michael
  14. msperber
    Hi, not really changing subjects, but on my 75 I run the same carbs, where are you getting parts? now that its time to start playing with that part of the car. thanks
  15. msperber
    Hi, I have my car about a year and this week I acquired 3 more. They are all parts cars so look in the parts section for more details but before they meet the big crusher in the sky I thought I would post their vin's to see if anybody knows them, 71-1600 1573089, 72-2002 2577857, and the last one is a one owner with the window sticker in the glove box 74-2002 4226674. The wife is gonna kill me so act fast on the parts side. Michael
  16. msperber
    hi, after 10 years of pulling my racecar around, never ever put a cover on it while moving, acts like sandpaper. The tiedowns are the most important. If the car is 2500lb's your tiedowns should be rated 3x's the weight of the vehicle. The load should be distributed carefully on the trailer, check the tongue weight. The straps can be crossed both front and rear if you have the space or straight ahead if not. At every stop check the straps, never forget this. Are you going to use axle straps or body pick up points. Remember, axles don't like to be pulled by straps. The trunk and hood remain down when your driving at 75 mph, just make sure they are latched. put the key to the car in a safe place, not in the ignition, for the world to see, you'll forget. The car must be out of gear if its a manual.
  17. msperber
    hi, got my 02 from the orginal family, 75 model, highly modified and a blast to drive. Thanks for a wonderful site, it has helped with turn signal problems, short under the fuse box, rear brake lites, speedo and a host of other little items. I also joined the local North Carolina 02 group, super group of guys with a ton of info. My car serial number is 2366189, it has twin mikuni's, 4 sp metric mechanic 44lcr gearbox, big brake kit, 320 rear drums, 304 cam 3.9 final drive, turbo radiator, 6al with pertronix, Stalh header, minilite wheels, ground control camber plates and 195/60-14 azenis, R bilsteins with unknown rate front and rear springs. OK the questions, finally got the speedo working, not really acurate, got a 5 sp for a swap, do I calibrate the speedo before the swap or after, the final drive will not change just upgraded to lsd. The second question is I have heat but no fan speed at all. Switch first or fan. Which do I start with. Thanks
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