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Pablo M

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Everything posted by Pablo M

  1. Pablo M
    Hi David, Any word on the hardware? Also, you home from school? If so, where do you go to school?
  2. Pablo M
    I was wondering the same. I just bought a 72 tii and got a third type of key, a small key. Was told it was glovebox. Been preoccupied making it street legal to bother yet with that lol.
  3. Pablo M
    Now that I've been digging into the mechanics of my new-to-me '72 02tii I've been looking for torque specs and came across these below. I also have Haynes manual, but couldn't find a torque spec for the oil drain plug so went searching further. My question is what does the +x and @1 mean? For example, the control arm connection shows torque to be 51 +14 @1. Does that mean 51-65 ft/lbs? Or something different? And what does the @1 mean? @flagoworld posted this link in a thread: Tightening torques - Google Sheets DOCS.GOOGLE.COM 11 - Engine Engine ,Tightening Torques Nm,mkp,<a href="http://lb.ft">lb.ft</a> Engine (block) to gearbox (transmission), M8,25 - 27,2.5 - 2.7,18 - 19.5 M10,47 - 51,4.7 - 5.1,34 - 37 Cylinder head bolts The following procedure should be followed on all repair work where torquing of the... @Buckeye created this diagram in a post I came across.
  4. Pablo M
    Hi, I’ve read here you’re keeping the bumpers. Would you part with the mounting hardware? I don’t need the bracket but do need all the screws and such connecting the bumper to brackets and hardware at the ends. Also confirming you sold the taillights and reflectors.
  5. Pablo M
    I’ll take them! To confirm, these will fit 72 tii ? I’ll message you.
  6. Pablo M
    Lol, im after about this height. This is my friends car and he said he has 1-1/4” drop. He’s running 15” wheels but overall height of my 14’s and his 15’s are the same. Yes, I’ve reached out to him already.
  7. Pablo M
    Thanks for clarifying. what thickness would be original? as they definitely looked original lol.
  8. Pablo M
    Lol, I suppose it couldn’t hurt to loosen and retighten control and trailing arms. Rear spacer? No idea what’s in there. I literally only replaced the rear springs reusing everything else in back. I also left the aluminum spacer up front because I didn’t know better. The more I’m reading on it the more I come across people tossing it lol. I’ll do same. also came across lots of people with same experience Re:barely noticeable change using the IE stage 1 springs. so I’m tempted to think I didn’t do anything specifically wrong.
  9. Pablo M
    Thanks Joe. I've got the tools and no issues removing the panels. In fact, I just redid them both with Aardvark wood cards, so that's not an issue. In fact, it was while redoing them and cleaning them that I discovered the overspray. The overspray likely is several months old from a recent spray, prior to my purchase. Simple Green, full strength, did not remove the paint.
  10. Pablo M
    I tightened everything up in the air. But all I had apart up front were the tie rods and center link (having also replaced that center link), the front sway bar, and took out the front strut in its entirety. None of the control arms were loosened. On rear it was just rear sway bar and rear lower shock mount that I undid. I did a search here and seems others were equally disappointed with the amount of lowering with the IE stage 1 springs. I should have done more research but a good friend, @chargin3737 recommended the 1-1/4” drop pointing to his car, but mine ended up nothing like it. pretty disappointed, especially given all the work (and bloody knuckles) that went into this swap.
  11. Pablo M
    Got my front springs on to compliment the rears I did last night. I first tried to pull the struts without disconnecting the bottom but after some considerable struggle I wasn’t able to do it. so I undid the three bolts at the bottom (one side had the wiring connecting them, one didn’t) and I have to say, that was much easier than I expected. I would remove the entire assembly in a heartbeat. I was worried the bolts would be permanently rusted together, this being originally a Tennessee car, but was pleasantly surprised everything came apart with ease, like a west coast car lol. The more I do the more I realize how much more I have to do lol. I’ll have to dig into these again to replace the shocks and all the rubber parts, but that’s for another time. Im hoping the new springs, 1-1/4” lowered, Ireland Engineering stage 1 springs, will settle down a bit as the car still feels too high. after:
  12. Pablo M
    Thanks Mike. I didn’t think to lube it up. Was trying to muscle it on, one side then rolling it on. Once lubed the metal with some motor oil (was within reach) went on without issue. Got my rear springs on tonight! Thanks.
  13. Pablo M
    got a head start on tomorrows project. tonight got the center link back off and soaked the rubber grommets in oil per FAQ thread. Also started the springs/brakes project. Not sure I’ll have enough time to do the full project but got the rear springs in tonight. 1-1/4” lowered springs from IE. Now it’s time for a tasty adult beverage.
  14. Pablo M
    Bump stop came off while swapping springs. Is there some trick to get it back on? I can’t force it on for the life of me.
  15. Pablo M
    The superglue trick I remember from college, stopping the blood so I could continue making architectural models lmao.
  16. Pablo M
    Replaced the failed center link. funny side note. Open wounds (knuckles) and brake cleaner don’t mix! 😮 Also changed the oil/filter. Is the drain plug really 45ft/lbs torque? I’m paranoid given my e39 M5 plug strips if you look at it sideways lol. Also replaced the faded-to-white rear red reflectors and side markers with used (yes one new rear reflector came from a marker light). A simple aesthetic upgrade that is satisfying. Discovered my generally rust free car has some rust. Boo! (bought sight unseen) It’s just on the passenger side. Otherwise bottom is clean. and what the hell is this? Does not look like original resonator. A productive day!
  17. Pablo M
    I feel you. Consider it a cheap-ish lesson learned. I got scammed recently under similar circumstances for $100. I feel you.
  18. Pablo M
    Both of these options are basically the same. Why does the thread give the option to give partial info if it then wont let you submit with any missing info? I do not want to give my street address but thought it helpful to know what city and state the car was based. Leaving it blank worked.
  19. Pablo M
    I tried posting my new-to-me car in the registry. I'd rather not give my full address. The post says you can just give city and state, which I tried to do, but get this error message just below it. See screen grab below.
  20. Pablo M
    Todd, you’re in Santa Monica? So am I! I don’t need anything that’s left but have a list of random stuff so if you have anything else… would live to touch base regardless.
  21. Pablo M
    All good replies. If I may add some of my personal experience. Several years ago I spray painted some steel wheels on another car using Duplicolor paint for wheels. I do recommend this as its super easy to get a good finish. one word of caution is to buy extra cans of paint. I painted a bronze color and went looking for same to paint my 2002 wheels but can’t get it any longer. Grr. these are the wheels I painted. Only prep was a good wash.
  22. Pablo M
    Thanks! To be honest I didn’t replace the staples. I’d been told to use 1/8” staples. When I pulled the card I noticed the entire card wasn’t stapled, by design. There were only about 12 staples on lower leading edge. I used headliner spray adhesive throughout the front surface and contact cement (water resistant, indoor/outdoor, by Weldwood) on all the edges that fold over to back. I felt comfortable with this method after seeing a number of similar approaches on YouTube. Time will tell.
  23. Pablo M
    I was afraid of that. It’s auto body paint. this might be my only option. thanks.
  24. Pablo M
    Bought new wood door cards from Aardvark and started to redo the door panels. Took the rusty chrome bits and dunked them in vinegar. They came out pretty good, albeit pitted. Still, better. Redid the passenger door panel today. All I had time for but wow, what a difference (you can see some of the paint overspray on front edge of door panel - only apparent on cleaning the panel lol). I’ll redo the chrome trim on the panels later, waiting for the vinyl wrap film. before after
  25. Pablo M
    what’s a recommended way to remove paint overspray from interior door panel? I don’t want to damage the vinyl so I’m tentative on using thinners or anything too caustic. The previous owner got a bit of overspray on edges of the door panels. appreciate any recommendations.
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