Naz

Ok..this is not coming out with that flange attached. Grrr




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Hey chris, remember when I bought this? Wish you got it instead of me now. I feel bad because I don't need it. It doesn't suit my needs. It looks same as yours however.

One of holes has been mangled so it needs a big washer. See pic.

I'd rather trade something for it rather than selling if your interested. I need a door stop if you have one for NK.

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I got back under and took some pics. It looks like it does fit. I didn't see the opening until i used a flash and took this pic. The flange has to be in the right position to slide through. One connector straight up and he other two straight down to make the pass. Duh...

I'll try it later after I eat a bowl of wheaties so I can muscle out this boat anchor.

Once this is out I'm pretty much out of things to remove. The rear bushings all look good so I'm leaving the rear subframe in.

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I looked at it, made an offer of $500 (and said I'd probably offer a lot more if he'd clear the crap off it and pull it out for a better inspection), but the seller didn't bite.
 
The roof is likely caved-in from the crap sitting on top - he argued with me that it wasn't, but wouldn't remove the stuff to prove it.  If you get in the car, the interior dome light is "sagging" down from the roof and when you feel the headliner with your hand, you can feel the bent sheetmetal pushing the dome light down.  The body doesn't seem to have much rust, except for some evidence on the lower area of the front passenger door and perhaps something starting at the front passenger fender.  That said, there are noticeable dings in practically every body panel.  The interior is shredded except for the passenger seat.  The dashboard is missing most of it's wood and the glovebox door is gone.  Both door locks have been broken into with a flat-head at some point, but the driver's door will still "kind-of" work with the key.  He claims "it ran a few years ago," but the last registration sticker was from the 90's (IIRC).
 
The guy's a nutjob...seems like a junk hoarder, so I don't expect him to let it go for anything close to what it's actually worth.  He told me he had an offer of $2000 a while back, but "the guy never came to get it."  I'd be willing to try a "group" thing with a few people if we pooled money and resources for the parts, but probably can't deal with it on my own.
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So is he trying to tell you he wants $2000? Tell him the guy never showed because it's not worth $2000. If this car is going to service your project then you have to decide what it's worth to you. For me if the front right fender was rust free it would be worth $1000 and the rest of the car is free.

That's just how I look at it anyway.

I'm not going to give you $1000 for the front right fender btw. However, I am interested in it of you buy the car. I'll give you $200 for it if it's rust free.








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The one on the left is my version subframe. Long neck diff




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The one on the left is my version subframe. Long neck diff




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I don't know why that needs to come off - I seem to remember mine sliding out intact.

Never mind..a little heat and wd40 and she moved. Got the nut off. I'm guessing I have to use a 3 prong puller the rest of the way.

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I'm trying to pull the diff out and it appears that in order to clear the tunnel in the subframe I have to remove this flange.
 
Is there a trick to getting this off? Is the thread of the bolt to the left or right?
 
 
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I just want to throw a saddle on it and take her for a ride!
 

 
 
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So I was doing some reading up about 5 speed options and it sounds like the only 5 speed that will fit would be the Getrag 245. I think I read something about the 240 being to big to fit in the early NK tunnel. I must admit there isn't much room down there.
 
Having said that I attached some pics of the drive shaft. I was very surprised how light the driveshaft was when I pulled it out. Thought it would be heavy to handle.
 
Any input on what I should be expecting to deal with re: driveshaft once I get a 5 speed in my hands would be appreciated. It doesn't seem to complicated a swap really.
 

 

 

 
 
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what I meant was the black coating goes in and out of the contact area. It might not be an issue, but it also might. I would have left it all bare metal. I'd use silicone on any event, and be gentle with the big clamp ring - you need to help it close while tightening the nut/bolt.
 
I thought you were putting in a 5 speed.

what I meant was the black coating goes in and out of the contact area. It might not be an issue, but it also might. I would have left it all bare metal. I'd use silicone on any event, and be gentle with the big clamp ring - you need to help it close while tightening the nut/bolt.
 
I thought you were putting in a 5 speed.

Looks nice! I'm wondering about the overlap on the beveled edge where the hat sits, and how that will seal.

I'm pretty sure this isn't the original exhaust. Not seeing much reason to replace it yet but knowing me I'm sure I will by the time I get to putting it back in.

Haha there is no muffler. Looks like 3 resonators on there.
 
It looks like I have some leakage in the diff that needs to be addressed as well.
 
 



 
 
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Naz,
 
I've not yet rebuilt my NK calipers but I have rebuilt similar ATE calipers from my E9 (Coupe) and E3 (3.0 Si) and at that time spoke to Eric at PMB where he restores more ATE calipers than anyone and he indicated the bolts are not stretch bolts and he doesn't replace them.  You can read and see pics of my E9 rebuild on the E9 board here:  http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/stock-caliper-rebuild.17389/
 
How was your braking before the rebuild?
 
Luis

Well I got everything cleaned up and ready for the new boot. Just have to find some narrow clamps. Tempted to just take the other side off and do the same job just so it matches In cleanliness. I'm stopping my self though. We will see.




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Looks like fun. Nice pack of cars there.


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and that's for single circuit?

Can you still get kits for those things? I forget where I got the o-rings. Not sure if they are the same as dual circuit. Not the same caliper as 1600-2/1602/2002 single circuit.

Hi all, we are talking single calliper


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So I'm all over the place with projects on the 2000tilux. Since I have to wait for parts to arrive from Germany I split the callipers open to rebuild and repaint them. I guess my question is can the bolts be reused or do they absolutely have to be replaced? I don't mind replacing them but where the heck do I find these bolts, and is there anything special about the nuts?

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Thanks for the tips. I was able to get the O-ring through BMW Germany along with the overpriced clear boot Just waiting for the parts to arrive. I couldn't justify $12 for the hose clamp though. The standard clamps you find at Home Depot are a little to wide compared to the original. Perhaps an auto parts store will have narrow ones?

Yes, I certainly wouldn't want to lose one of those bearings. I decided to reuse the original bolts as there is nothing wrong with them and replace the lock nuts.

I will look for your article Chris.


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I have a set of 4 new CV Boots with clamps for a 2002.
 
Bought them thinking they would work on my 2000tilux but not even close. 30$ for all 4 boots with clamps.I'm in Vancouver Canada so pick up is best as shipping to USA is expensive and probably not worth it for USA customers.


 

 
 
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