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Posts posted by Naz
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It's a fugazi Ti.
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I'm interested
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Completed the front subframe assembly.
I didn't plan on putting it back into the car tonight but just as I shot this pic my wife walked into the garage and asked if I needed a hand.
Well just so happens I'm thinking about how the @$!$@ I'm going to get this back in.
Well...she suggests using the engine hoist. I followed with a "what are you talking about?"
Anyway...After we wrestled it under the car and a failed attempt at jacking the assembly into position I came up with a great idea. "Let's use the engine hoist!" we threw some thick straps that the movers left behind around the centre of the subframe and pulled it up with the hoist.
Worked like a charm.
I would of taken more pics but didn't think these unorthodox methods should be documented.
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Never mind. I see it now. There are two seal options.
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Looks like I have a getrag 232. Gearbox was replaced and it indicates that it came out of a 1600. Not sure if that's true? Realoem doesn't show a 232 on any of the models I searched.
The rear seal I pulled out is a 40x55x8 but everything indicates 38X55X10 on realoem. It looks to have been changed in the past with the wrong size seal perhaps? The bearing says made in Japan so someone's been in there.
Any thoughts?
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The only issue I ran into was not being able to thread the new collar all the way down so I had some aluminum washers made to fill the gap.
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It all boils down to what you want to spend and what your goal is. Personally I would rebuild it all. If you are on a budget just Replace main crank seals, check for wear on piston walls. If it's within moderately lower than acceptable levels then Maybe throw some new rings in after you hone the walls...Better than nothing.
If you go all the way and plan on doing it right then you should replace crankshaft bearings, polish crank or grind depending on wear, measure oil pump tolerance for wear. Going all the way may lead to having to boring the cylinder walls and replacing pistons, not always necessary but likely if the engine has never been rebuilt. Checking oil pump is important as you don't want that failing a month after you put it all back together.
Machine surface of head and block to achieve true flat surface. If you machine surface consider a thicker head gasket as its a little more forgiving and hold up better over time.
Oh...and change the pilot bearing in the crank.
Just my two bits.
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Paint it black and sell it.
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All I got
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Well it's good to know they are available if and when mine fails.
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Well there it is! Looks like it's working.
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Is that castle nut tightened properly? I had a similar issue when I took my wheel off and solved it by tightening the castle nut and pinning it
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I bought all four bilsteins from Tdot performance.
24-632140 - rear
I can't remember the front part number but could find it.
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I feel the round headlight are unappealing and kinda boring compared to the euro style rectangle lights that give it a more unique flavour. I've owned a couple 2002 and switched to the 2000tilux as i really enjoy the added space. I'm not sure why they are priced so much lower than the 2002 considering they are so rare in good original condition. Granted that some find the design ugly much like the 2000cs but I like the uniqueness of them.
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Well, BMW doesn't actually make parts, they use suppliers, so factory doesn't mean anything.
Touche'
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Wow what an interior. What's that centre console out of?
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Is this sound a new development in your driver or the tii engine you built?
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Paul, I was a little reluctant about the design of the new chain guide but I'm confident that it shouldn't pose any issues. I did however add a couple shims to the oil pump to achieve what I believed to be the perfect amount of tension on the oil chain. I spent a lot of time removing and trying a few different shim configurations before I nailed it down. I have a .03 and .01 shim combo on the original oil chain and sprocket.
Of course none of my work has actually been tested yet. The engine is still on a stand. Be interested in hearing what you discover.
Have you checked the timing chain tension spring and piston?
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My original was a different shape.
Tension of the chain is only thing I can think of that would cause a noisy chain.
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Got it. Thanks Ed!
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Thanks I'll wait for you to check that old sack of nuts. Haha. I think we took this as far as it should go lol.
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Thanks Hal, that's what I figured. Thanks for the green light.
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When output flange goes bad.
in BMW Neue Klasse Discussion
Posted
I noticed the rear hub was loose a couple months back and it made me think oh..oh.
Today after I finished installing the front brake calipers I though it was time to face the inevitable. Without any force what so ever I was able to remove the rear nut and flange on the rear driver side wheel.
I think the images speak for themselves. Notice the broken bearing and beat up output shaft.
Now the challenge..According to realoem the rear bearings are the same as the E21. What are the odds that the output shaft is the same but separated only by bolt pattern difference? Has anyone ever had to replace the output shaft? If so, is there an alternative part (e21 or otherwise) that can be modified to avoid the very expensive original part?
The last pic was when my wife walked in on me and started laughing her ass off.. what's so funny??
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