Jump to content

Naz

Solex
  • Posts

    364
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Posts posted by Naz

  1. I noticed the rear hub was loose a couple months back and it made me think oh..oh.
     
    Today after I finished installing the front brake calipers I though it was time to face the inevitable. Without any force what so ever I was able to remove the rear nut and flange on the rear driver side wheel.
     
    I think the images speak for themselves. Notice the broken bearing and beat up output shaft.
     
    Now the challenge..According to realoem the rear bearings are the same as the E21. What are the odds that the output shaft is the same but separated only by bolt pattern difference? Has anyone ever had to replace the output shaft? If so, is there an alternative part (e21 or otherwise) that can be modified to avoid the very expensive original part?
     
    The last pic was when my wife walked in on me and started laughing her ass off.. what's so funny??


    2694c732ed24ad66e5a50a5b38796b51.jpg
     
    8bb957688ebad931e43fa5645cf35319.jpg&key=e931bdcb1cb15f82321e89002dc2daa3883c85f3d658613cf631d9bdcc520b67d5cc02dbc8846c1e6f530ec8a8102ab6.jpg&key=70e0568217e5a2adfc3934ccf8a35f7b1fc88d7cbb8e1f8e97d848381253a8e6
    0e57d79fdb59e9cb89acf91690cb95ca.jpg&key=a95a3b9d018c2994452ab7fdb6e096d3fa103778c23b935b6d56d1838ff378d3
     
     
     
     
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. Completed the front subframe assembly.

    I didn't plan on putting it back into the car tonight but just as I shot this pic my wife walked into the garage and asked if I needed a hand.

     

    Well just so happens I'm thinking about how the @$!$@ I'm going to get this back in.

    Well...she suggests using the engine hoist. I followed with a "what are you talking about?"

     

    Anyway...After we wrestled it under the car and a failed attempt at jacking the assembly into position I came up with a great idea. "Let's use the engine hoist!" we threw some thick straps that the movers left behind around the centre of the subframe and pulled it up with the hoist.

     

    Worked like a charm.

     

    I would of taken more pics but didn't think these unorthodox methods should be documented.

     

     

    a6f2689152ab698794a69bb62f11e110.jpg&key=d5de8194b92984b1adcdc5d713631933fac01bdc65ec8ec41568472d8301e389f68e54d1e76a1158fbdd1f0903ddd323.jpg&key=7daf2ca8bdb805b0fdfc44a8e867a37d573cb55ac3ca3c4aab5fd718615323ac

     

    d7f7133f2b046de7dde1ffd3d515c4f4.jpg

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

  3. 1cbba44e3a9177f4d60ac7fe3e814f48.jpg759f9497a67c791df27447100893b743.jpgd6ae4320bc7bed652d270fe1399d40bb.jpg

    Looks like I have a getrag 232. Gearbox was replaced and it indicates that it came out of a 1600. Not sure if that's true? Realoem doesn't show a 232 on any of the models I searched.

    The rear seal I pulled out is a 40x55x8 but everything indicates 38X55X10 on realoem. It looks to have been changed in the past with the wrong size seal perhaps? The bearing says made in Japan so someone's been in there.

    Any thoughts?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. It all boils down to what you want to spend and what your goal is. Personally I would rebuild it all. If you are on a budget just Replace main crank seals, check for wear on piston walls. If it's within moderately lower than acceptable levels then Maybe throw some new rings in after you hone the walls...Better than nothing.

     

    If you go all the way and plan on doing it right then you should replace crankshaft bearings, polish crank or grind depending on wear, measure oil pump tolerance for wear. Going all the way may lead to having to boring the cylinder walls and replacing pistons, not always necessary but likely if the engine has never been rebuilt. Checking oil pump is important as you don't want that failing a month after you put it all back together.

     

    Machine surface of head and block to achieve true flat surface. If you machine surface consider a thicker head gasket as its a little more forgiving and hold up better over time.

     

    Oh...and change the pilot bearing in the crank.

     

    Just my two bits.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

  5. I feel the round headlight are unappealing and kinda boring compared to the euro style rectangle lights that give it a more unique flavour. I've owned a couple 2002 and switched to the 2000tilux as i really enjoy the added space. I'm not sure why they are priced so much lower than the 2002 considering they are so rare in good original condition. Granted that some find the design ugly much like the 2000cs but I like the uniqueness of them.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. Paul, I was a little reluctant about the design of the new chain guide but I'm confident that it shouldn't pose any issues. I did however add a couple shims to the oil pump to achieve what I believed to be the perfect amount of tension on the oil chain. I spent a lot of time removing and trying a few different shim configurations before I nailed it down. I have a .03 and .01 shim combo on the original oil chain and sprocket.

     

    Of course none of my work has actually been tested yet. The engine is still on a stand. Be interested in hearing what you discover.

     

    Have you checked the timing chain tension spring and piston?

     

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

     

     

×
×
  • Create New...